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Napa starter

I'll ask in this post first.
Anyone know how to fix a metal glow plugs relay that has begun to work backwards? The metal case is hot, as is the switch terminal. When it's grounded, it switches on.
This must be related to the shorted starter cable.
 
If the contacts are stuck, I think that if the wire going to the GPz was disconnected, it should not heat up.
If it is shorted internally, it will probably continue to heat up with the GP wire disconnected.
 
I'll ask in this post first.
Anyone know how to fix a metal glow plugs relay that has begun to work backwards? The metal case is hot, as is the switch terminal. When it's grounded, it switches on.
This must be related to the shorted starter cable.

I assume it doesn't switch off after 30 seconds or so?

Really should add the year to your signature.

1994+ is ECM controlled dumb relay: codes? check the yellow wire from ECM for voltage or ground shorts.

~1988-1993 was self contained - it's toast replace it. Note 88-93 systems will switch on if the ground or power is interrupted. (Sucks if you are doing 65MPH when this happens and the 1988 head temp switch is bad. Ever see glow plugs blown in half?) As soon as they get power aka grounding it they will turn on and timer cycle the plugs biased on temperature. 88's has an external head temp sensor that 1993's don't. These have an internal heater and thermal resister sensor to prevent double cycling and burning out the plugs as well as overall time of operation if even needed. They can get warm from use. Hot IMO is burnt contacts. You can take these apart and clean the contacts IF the case hasn't melted.

Older round screw into the head systems are an abortion: upgrade it to a 1993 system that actually works... or get an aftermarket glow timer with self limiting plugs.
 
Mine is a push a button and count.

This should be pretty simple then. Does your push button supply power or the ground to the solenoid?

Check operation of your push button switch to make sure it didn't stick, shorts in the wiring for the switch, and then shorts on the solenoid connections. If that all checks out the metal solenoid is shorted internally somehow or simply welded as suggested above. The "click" suggests a wiring or short problem kicking things in.
 
Think I figured it out. Looks like the diode packs in both my alts were blown. I have 12v on both the excite and charge.
That alternator output can be checked with a multimeter set on AC current. if it reads voltage out put on AC then the diodes is bad.
 
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It runs perfect without the alternators hooked up. Advance will warranty theirs no problem. Napa needs to see it, figure out if I really bought it there, they don't track purchases to make good on claims. Receipt required.
I did a bunch of wiring harness work today. Less clutter, much cleaner.
 
Ok. Click click click is still there.
3 starters, a different country of origin solenoid, new cable and clean connections. Only thing left is grounds. I know the one to the engine is clean and good. I have not r&r'd the one to the frame. All of them bolt directly to the 4o welding cable to the batteries. Do I need to run one direct from the starter bolt or bell housing to the battery ground cable?
 
Using the GM side posts on a dual terminal battery? Maybe the cross straps in the battery(s) are burning up. Just went through this not long ago. Wound up using the top posts.
 
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