My starter problems I need some input please.

[Dieseldad97]

Update: Late for work this morning at 6am...grr...click, click about a 5 dozen times then away she flew. 12 hours later, after work the same thing. I had a work buddy give me a boost to see if that would do anything. I hooked the cables up and she turned over!!

So, it could be that my 1 year old Interstate has a dead spot in it. Is it possible does anybody know if the cell in the battery that connects to the starter could have a dead spot in it? At the shop the other day we did a load test on it and it showed a bit weak after a few tests, but one time the gauge went all the way down...but we thought it was a fluke or something. After checking it again it was normal.

Guess I'm gonna track down another battery to see if that makes a difference.

 

[iamdave0887]

A battery is essentially a series circuit. A battery has 6 cells at 2.1 volts a piece. 2.1 x 6 = 12.6 volts, which is a fully charged battery. If anyone of the cells has an issue, it affects all the others, due to it being wired in series. A bad cell will bring down the entire battery, and any battery connected to the battery with the bad cell.

I jump started a friends car and the next day my truck was dead. Load tested the batteries and had 60 and 65 CCAs respectively. Jump starting my friends car took out one of my batteries. The bad battery killed the other one since they are wired in parallel.

I'd make sure your other battery is in decent shape, especially if that one interstate turns up no good.

 

[NVW]

Bad cable connections could cause that as well.

 

[scott renfro]

check the ground stud on the starter itself, i bought a reman one last year and had issues out of the box, finally figured it out after in and out a few frozen times.

 

[Dieseldad97]

Just to update this thread, I didn't trust the Interstate that showed weak so I bought a new battery. After I installed it, I couldn't believe how fast she cranked. I'll know tomorrow morning if this fixes my clicking problem. It only does it when its bitterly cold and the truck has been sitting for 10+ hours. Nothing like throwing money into this problem!

 

[btfarm]

Hope you got it Gerald!

 

[Dieseldad97]

Thanks Mike. I hope so too!

 

[Dieseldad97]

Glad my motor mounts work. The starter wants to rip the motor out of the truck. :hihi:

Guess it's been a bad cell in the battery after all. Trucks back to normal...better than normal for now....:rolleyes5:

Thanks for hangin in with me guys.:thumbsup:

 

[Crankme69]

Glad you got it fixed Gerald

 

[buckwill]

there are at least three thing here that need to be checked, in thr relays, the contactor is a copper plated steel disc hitting two copper bolts, open relay solenoid and rotate the bolts 180 where the copper has blown away,, many times the starter ground is weak, run a cable under one of the statrter mount bolts establishing a ground right from the starter itself,, check voltage battery hot post to ground while turning motor, check starter lug to ground while turning, check both ends of cable while turning, if u get voltage diff then cable may be bad or corroision is inside mount or cable, is cable hot to touch, if its hot then replace cable,,if post gets hot, clean or replace lug, lead lugs are terrible, replace woth tin plated brass lugs, the big truck stuff dont use bolt on repair lug, use crimp on or solder on lugs,, one more, turn your headlights on high beam, have someone turn starter switch and u watch headlights, if they do not dim its in the starter connection, if they do dim then its in supply, cable or ground, buck new guy just joined today, old diesel nuttttt, retired disabled vietvet, machinist, edited,, cud also be bad brushes, but if the commutator is good then easy and cheap to rebuild, and can be done in about 30 minutes if your starter is out, on my 92 dodge cummins, on my supposedly non rebuildable geared starter, rebuilt it twp years ago, well had it done 17 year old kid telling him what to do, had to hir a man to remount it as i cudn get down there, be sure to undercut mica if it needs it, cost me total about 70 dollars with paying someone to crawl in the driveway,,, replacement cost 317. and change and get starter that not aas good as the one in there, there are sources for depot level parts that u can buy, not my parts, not my business, i just buy when i dont like paying local ripoff prices,, hope this helps, i have arrested stroaked twice now and cant do the work but remember some, buck

 

[buckwill]

if u hold the switch to engaged position and rock the column and it engages then multifunction or wiring bundle hads failed and needs replacement, it can be dangerous, ive had one turn my lights off on treelined, big ditch country road, no moon, rainstormditches full, dead dark lights out, after some serious stomping shaking wheel, flipping switches, brake smoking panic stop, plus u can imagine me settin there in two lane country road, lights out gettin run over bu some country boy runnin home for his late night sixpac, and it wud be all my fault fars the court concerned, replace the multifunction first. on my dodge it was easy, 15 minutes, two screws and changed without any major teardown, wire is diff story i imagine, if it still does wierd stuff when u shake wheel then, change the column harness too, buck,,, u see the wiring harness bends when it goes thru the tilt axis, and flexes evertime u tilt the wheel, the wires can and do break often right at the flex an u never know when its going to fail, if your lights flicker when u shake tilt the wheel then it has failed and every trip on the road is roll of the dice, just my two,,, u know its not going to fail setting in your yard, it will quit in the dark on winding road,, middle of freeway rush hour 80 mile an hour traffic, with child screaming in your ear anda hot cuppa in your zipper,,buck