My Project / Work Truck

[CCGifford]

Hi,
Not new but have not posted here yet.
93' chevy extended cab, 6.5 Turbo
What I have fixed or replaced
Fuel Sock, Fuel tank suction tubes, Fuel pump 3 times, upgraded to Raptor 150, 4 inch exhaust, 3 inch crossover pipe, Lifted 6inches, put 12.5x35 tires, replaced back window the old one leaked, new grill, radiator taken apart cleaned and reassembled, HO water pump, New injectors, All new grounds wires and some main power leads,
Wix water separator, fuel filter before the lift pump, Override switch for the cold start loop, Deep sump transmission pan, and 80,000 gvr transmission cooler, All new hoses, New steal braided oil cooler lines from Leroy Diesel. Tinted Head lights, HID headlights, LED turn signals, Oh Ya I forgot NEW HEADS, they blew after a few weeks, I got them off and they had been welded at least 2 times. Full set of gauges, trans temp, boost and pyro.

I have a new winch and bumper to install, a dual oil filter - get rid of the tiny one, Air bags, Onboard Air compressor, air horns, 4" Fender flares.
I'll post pictures later

 

[BoostN]

Sounds like you've put a lot of time in already! Welcome.

 

[btfarm]

Glad to see you check in. Let's see if we can help you spend some more $

 

[CCGifford]

Glad to see you check in. Let's see if we can help you spend some more $

Thanks Guys, I have learned a lot the past 2 years. Most of it from other members, just reading past posts. Reading about other owners trucks and the information everyone provides is a huge help.

 

[NVW]

Welcome to TTS

 

[Will L.]

Welcome. Sounds like a fun truck in the making.

 

[BIGR]

Welcome

 

[Burning oil]

Welcome. Got your first like already Got pictures of your truck and some of the mods?

 

[CCGifford]

Here are some pictures of the Wix fuel filter / water separator , and the bracket I made to attach it to the frame.

 

[WarWagon]

Nice project truck!

Add: Fuel heater for the prefilter (I hope the tank sock is GONE), better cooling fan, new fan clutch, head studs, self limiting duraterm glow plugs, better turbo, new harmonic balancer, OPS override and relay kit for raptor, Remove oil coolers and clean mat of debris behind them off ac condenser, Borgeson steering shaft, new front end, energy suspension bushings for front end...

Oil change is as low as 2500 miles by the manual - Do you really want to change big filters that often? I agree a remote mount oil filter is a plus.

 

[CCGifford]

Tank sock was replaced before I had new online filter. I am considering a sump for the bottom of the tank. No more sock or undersized straw for fuel feed.
All new front end but I should have gone poly, already getting loose after 30,000 miles
Cleaned behind all coolers 2 times now
New head studs when heads were replaced
Turbo is ready to be replaced it is weaping oil all over and into the intake
Does fluid damper really help, it is expensive, compared to stock replacement?
New fan and clutch before summer this year for sure
I did Ops relay, still had issues so I hooked the pump up with a separate relay triggered by the ignition. Probably just need to fix power supply issues but, had not figured out just how bad that problem was.

 

[Will L.]

Doorman harmonic balancers fail around 30-35,000 miles.
AC Delco is good for 100,000.
Fluid damper is forever.

Harmonic balancer goes and you WILL break the crankshaft and ruin the block. Seen it way too many times in the fleet...

 

[CCGifford]

Ok good to know on the balancer. Sounds like I need to take care of it right away. Pretty sure the balancer I have now is at about 150000. Would a worn balancer wreck a new water pump? I think my water pump has failed and it was new this past year. System still holds pressure but coolant is boiling. Does not feel like I have any flow in hoses, even with t-stat out.

 

[WarWagon]

Your signature is abbreviated then...

The odds are your engine won't make it that far, but, The Fluid damper should be replaced at 500,000 miles. (They would warranty it at 500K I bet.) It's only an issue on 1,000,000 mile trucks... And medium duty on up commercial trucks have this known lifetime on the fluid damper designs they run now.

Turbo weeping could be from the CDR and blowby getting sucked into the turbo. Gapless rings on a re-ring job if this is the case...

 

[NVW]

Some new parts are no good, was the pump an AC Delco? Does it boil without the "T" stats? In some cases no "T" stats can cause boiling. The coolant doesn't have time to cool. I had a 69 Mustang that was this way.

 

[WarWagon]

Ok good to know on the balancer. Sounds like I need to take care of it right away. Pretty sure the balancer I have now is at about 150000. Would a worn balancer wreck a new water pump? I think my water pump has failed and it was new this past year. System still holds pressure but coolant is boiling. Does not feel like I have any flow in hoses, even with t-stat out.

Uh-Ho!

From a cold start does the radiator hose get hard quick? If so pull the t-stat crossover off. Remove fan belt. Start engine. Does it bubble on either side of the engine in the coolant? If so the HG is popped or cracks.


HB's just need an inspection for the condition of the rubber. There are two rubber dampers on the crank and one is for the belt drive under the serp pulley and in fact part of the pulley. The HB that snaps the crank is behind the serp pulley.

 

[Will L.]

Balancer will not cause ill effects on water pump. Something major is wrong, you should not be boiling coolant anywhere- address this now!

 

[CCGifford]

First I stopped driving the truck as soon as I heard gurgling in the heater core, but sounds like it was too late.

Well, I pulled it apart ran it with no belt... I have bubbles, so my 10 month old head gaskets are screwed and I'm guessing my new heads. The heads are under warranty, but not the labor, I paid to have the work done last year, I just did not have the time. So...... Engine is at 230,000, thinking about replacing the whole engine if my head gaskets are blown again. Recommendations???
Military surplus? Navistar? I love my truck and want to keep it. I have already put to much $$$ at this point, I had planned on just keeping it for long time.

 

[WarWagon]

Possible they didn't seal the ARP's into the block with sealer like locktight, thread sealer, etc. This needs to be done to prevent coolant in oil. Not your current issue however.

I would talk to the shop about warranty as they may extend some to you depending.

Bubbles are combustion gas pressure and only comes from cracked cylinder, cracked head, or blown head gasket. Possible the block is warped at the head or there is corrosion (missing metal) on the block where the fire ring seals.

What's your budget for an engine? Myself on limited funds go military surplus 6.2, re-ring it, and drop it in for under $2000 in parts. Likely at 200K your block has crack(s) in the main webs, but, you need to check and see. (Again a 6.5 is more or less a bored out 6.2.)

 

[CCGifford]

I used odessa*cylinderhead on ebay, heads were advertised as NEW. Warranty is 2 years unlimited miles, we will see how that goes. The labor was 2 times the head cost.