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My HX40 Cold Air Intake

Your using the hood for the lid?

BTW I haven't seen a snorkel in anything after 95.
The plan is to use the hood for the lid. I'm still making sure I like what I've done so far, if I do, then I'll take it back out and seal and insulate it. I'll get some thick foam (like for sealing around a window air conditioner or something) to seal the box to the hood on the back and side.
 
I decided I was happy enough with the intake system that I might as well finish it. I removed the box and applied a layer of DEI Tunnel Shield to it. While the box was out I examined the core support for airflow options. I looked at making a snorkel next to the radiator but it didn't look like I'd get much more air from there, plus it was going to be warmed somewhat by the cooling stack I thought. It looks like there's a pretty good shot from the grill opening to behind the lights so I'm using that path for the majority of airflow. Air can also get in from under the bumper and through the fender as well. I decided to not do a fenderwell snorkel due to winter here....I could easily see the filter getting caked in snow and ice that way. I could possibly do a cowl induction at some point for additional air, we'll see, but for now I feel I'm already much better than the factory setup. I forgot to take a picture of the caulking after I reinstalled the box - but I caulked all the seams around the box to help keep warm air out. The other thing I did was insulate the plastic elbow. I was surprised how warm it was after a half hour drive! So I wrapped it in foil faced foam tape then a layer of foil tape. I also put some foil tape on the silicone couplers in an attempt to block a little extra heat. The final thing I did was seal the box to the hood. I was going to use an open cell foam, but I already had a bunch of the closed cell pipe insulation so I just glued that to the top. It was such a tight fit that I had to trim some of it away. Unfortunately I didn't get a chance to do IAT tests before and after the airbox, but it must be better. Today after lunch I popped the hood and the inside of the box was ambient and the side facing the engine on the outside was much warmer so it seems to be doing it's job. Better than an open filter anyway.image.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpg
 
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And the rest of the pics. Not all of these are great and some are close to the same angle as another pic but maybe somebody will see something in one they don't see in the other so I'm posting them all. image.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpg
 
Excellent indeed, might want to consider to insulate the inner fender for summer to hold back heat buildup on black fender.

Try to do something with the hood pinching the battery, IMHO heat and lower the wheelhousing about .75" only where the battery tray sits or in the alternative cut the housing under the tray out leaving enough material to then weld the tray in a lower position to the wheel housing.
 
Excellent indeed, might want to consider to insulate the inner fender for summer to hold back heat buildup on black fender.

Try to do something with the hood pinching the battery, IMHO heat and lower the wheelhousing about .75" only where the battery tray sits or in the alternative cut the housing under the tray out leaving enough material to then weld the tray in a lower position to the wheel housing.
Thanks. Yeah I thought about doing that extra insulating as well....I just need to figure out which product to use. I don't think I'd want to use the Tunnel Shield because I want to reflect heat out, not in. Perhaps just some foam?

Sinking the tray into the wheelwell was my initial design in my head but I had just enough room for the battery without doing it....it is close for sure because if the lift handle on the battery is in the wrong spot then the hood doesn't close right, but it just clears. I may sink it later though to give a little air gap.
 
The radiant heat your dealing with there at the inner fender inside the airbox can be substantial GM uses chopped jute matting similar to what is under the carpets but designed to withstand the elements IMHO the tunnel shield will be ok.

Lead acid battery cases are pretty rigged however a hood support hitting or resting on it can result in cracked case consider doing this sooner than later.

Great build I always look forward to more input about it, thanks.
 
The radiant heat your dealing with there at the inner fender inside the airbox can be substantial GM uses chopped jute matting similar to what is under the carpets but designed to withstand the elements IMHO the tunnel shield will be ok.

Lead acid battery cases are pretty rigged however a hood support hitting or resting on it can result in cracked case consider doing this sooner than later.

Great build I always look forward to more input about it, thanks.
Thanks FT. Ok, I guess I have another mini-project to add to the list :writer:
 
What Ive done on mine is put the battery where the expansion tank gos. Built a little tray for it and it works great there.
I'll be posting a video of it later in my thread.
 
Bringing this one back because I have a couple updates:

1. I was recently doing some headlight work to the Tahoe. While I had the grill out I was noticing some areas I could cut out of the core support and maybe gain some airflow. I also cut the front of the fender out and removed the upper passenger side marker light and cut a hole in the grill to give fresh air a little more access. Oh I also sprayed some Great Stuff foam into my fender to keep hot engine air from backfeeded through the fender via the original air inlet.

IMG_7342.JPG IMG_7343.JPG IMG_7344.JPG IMG_7345.JPG IMG_7346.JPG IMG_7347.JPG IMG_7348.JPG IMG_7350.JPG
 
2. To prepare for my upcoming trip to the dyno I decided to replace my air filter. It was going on 2 years old and since I had to replace it I figured it made long-term financial sense to go with a reusable air filter for a replacement. I found that AFE made a direct replacement for the Donaldson filter I was running that had their Pro-Guard 7 filtering media. Not only is it very efficient at keeping dirt out, but it's supposed to flow 19% more air than the Donaldson. I doubt the Donaldson was a restriction for me at my power level, but hey, it can't hurt right?? Visual inspection showed that it did indeed have the same dimensions. I also noticed that the rubber neck part was thicker than the Donaldson yet more pliable, which made installation easier when pushing my elbow into it. That's a 1 gallon oil jug for scale.

IMG_7447.JPG IMG_7448.JPG IMG_7449.JPG IMG_7450.JPG IMG_7451.JPG IMG_7452.JPG
 
About the size of a hummer filter, just need to get you to put the filter verticle outside the hood/fender like a snorkel intake... thats fresh cool air then. Haha, ok don't, not the best look.
 
2. To prepare for my upcoming trip to the dyno I decided to replace my air filter. It was going on 2 years old and since I had to replace it I figured it made long-term financial sense to go with a reusable air filter for a replacement. I found that AFE made a direct replacement for the Donaldson filter I was running that had their Pro-Guard 7 filtering media. Not only is it very efficient at keeping dirt out, but it's supposed to flow 19% more air than the Donaldson. I doubt the Donaldson was a restriction for me at my power level, but hey, it can't hurt right?? Visual inspection showed that it did indeed have the same dimensions. I also noticed that the rubber neck part was thicker than the Donaldson yet more pliable, which made installation easier when pushing my elbow into it. That's a 1 gallon oil jug for scale.

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If I may, a cobra-head elbow would give you the best performance.
 
If I may, a cobra-head elbow would give you the best performance.
I think you should change your Username to "Cap'n Cobrahead". KIDDING!!! Yes you're right, that probably would be a great spot for one. That would be a cool thing to change out on a future dyno trip and see what improvements happen, if any.
 
I think you should change your Username to "Cap'n Cobrahead". KIDDING!!! Yes you're right, that probably would be a great spot for one. That would be a cool thing to change out on a future dyno trip and see what improvements happen, if any.

LOL, Your 6.5 is gulping big air and any reduction of frictional loss will help in those turns, its been confirmed that the cobra-head out performs all else except very high end & tunes systems that uses a design similar to what FORD has a patent on.
 
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