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My CDR experiment

one of the things that could be done is to send a working CDR and I could modify and send it back pre adjusted. Still way to early for that tho. I'm also wondering what affects altitude and different barometric pressures would have.
 
ak diesel driver said:
one of the things that could be done is to send a working CDR and I could modify and send it back pre adjusted. Still way to early for that tho. I'm also wondering what affects altitude and different barometric pressures would have.
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I think engine condition would be a factor, also ... the more blowby, the more 'dialing-in' needed ?

Nice piece of research, AK!
 
good line of tought AK,adjusting the CDR springload to make up for more blowby.It may mimmick venting to the road.
Have to wait and see if it reduces oil pull over.
Would be awsome if it actually works.

You would think if it does, this idea would've crossed the mind of engine designers over the years?
 
Well, engine designers will tell you to replace the CDR or replace the engine so it works like its supposed to :)

This is partly why the CDR test is kind of useless, because yours probably would have passed with flying colors. The recommended test doesnt actually test anything but that the CDR is open with no load or vacuum from the turbo, just the engines vacuum from reving.

Bison's suck/blow test is much better in terms of functionality, that it is closing under a real vacuum, and this real world testing and adjustment is ideal.

I think it will help your consumption tremendously.
 
I think the real problem is it never closes in stock form. It would be interesting to test on a tight engine but I think they just designed it to stay open as that is easier and probably wouldn't matter on a tight engine.
 
I've never used a manometer before, but I'd be curious to see what the numbers look like on the long block I just ordered from Ted's when I get it.
 
buddy said:
Well, engine designers will tell you to replace the CDR or replace the engine so it works like its supposed to :)This is partly why the CDR test is kind of useless, because yours probably would have passed with flying colors. The recommended test doesnt actually test anything but that the CDR is open with no load or vacuum from the turbo, just the engines vacuum from reving. Bison's suck/blow test is much better in terms of functionality, that it is closing under a real vacuum, and this real world testing and adjustment is ideal.

I think it will help your consumption tremendously.
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That might be so with automotive engines.But commercial and industrial engine owners will prob tell them to go pound sand.

Does that confirm with my belief that that stupid thing is only for emmision control.
 
ak diesel driver said:
I think the real problem is it never closes in stock form. It would be interesting to test on a tight engine but I think they just designed it to stay open as that is easier and probably wouldn't matter on a tight engine.
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Its no diff on the older natural vented diesels.A tight engine produces no visable steam from the vent.The higher the blow by the more smoke it produces from it.
On a badly worn one you often see oil dripping from the tube
 
bison said:
Does that confirm with my belief that that stupid thing is only for emmision control.
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Not sure that confirms that per say, just that the test with water and what not doesn't test the CDR like people think. Becasue the whole purpose for the CDR being there is to close under high vacuum, which you cannot generate without load that spools the turbocharger. You might as well remove the CDR and plug the hose directly into the valve cover for the water test, to see 2" of vacuum from the engine.

It is for emissions though, I will give you that.
 
OrionThade said:
I've never used a manometer before, but I'd be curious to see what the numbers look like on the long block I just ordered from Ted's when I get it.
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You are going to have a show and tell when you get that aren't you?:agreed: Some of us:cool: are quite curious about Ted's engines:dunno::hypnotized:
 
bk95td said:
You are going to have a show and tell when you get that aren't you?:agreed: Some of us:cool: are quite curious about Ted's engines:dunno::hypnotized:
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Indeed. I have ARP studs to install and am going to have the rotating assembly balanced (though the mrs doesn't know about this yet.) I'm expecting the engine in a couple of weeks. I asked them to delay shipping for a week so I can hopefully get my other engine project finished and installed to free up my engine stand. But I'll take lots of pics.

I talked to them on the phone before I ordered and it sounds like they do a fair amount of testing before reselling the motors. The motors are run to operating temperatures three times over x amount of time, along with oil pressure checked at idle and 2000 RPM both cold and hot, blow-by measured at the same temps as oil pressure recorded and Compression tested. They also said that all of their engines are post-2001 Optimizers. Will have to see that when I get the motor (speaking of, can anyone remind me how to read the cast date code on these?). They print the results of all of the tests and send that with the engine. The also apply a new coat of paint to it. (Which will be repainted to Daytona Yellow on the block and heads.)

But I will take a lot of pics of it and just because you asked nicely, I'll use my nice SLR to snap the pics. :)
 
Is "Ted's" the place in Utah that sells the ex-military engines? Sorry to get OT here, but I'm 'in the market', so to speak and I'm interested in an optimizer if I can one for the right price.

I don't(or won't) have a worn out engine, but I'm still very interested in this CDR bit. It might really be something good for the community. Thanks for sharing the data with us.
 
No, Ted's Trucks n Stuff is in Alabama, IIRC. On the big auction site they are tedstrucks, I think. The longblock I bought was $1600 plus handling and freight.
 
bison said:
And you say he runs them on the test stand for that price!!!
Hard to believe there is one new part in it.
Used engine at best.
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These are not brand new motors. Sorry if there was confusion. They are hummer take outs. Not sure where they are getting them, but I've spent quite a bit of time browsing other forums and sites and so far have heard nothing negative about them.

As I said, I'll take plenty of pics. But IIRC, this is essentially the same motor that BobbieMartin just put in his rig.
 
Acesneights1 said:
With that kind of Oil consumption, I'd switch to straight weight 30 Rotella. Multi grade oil is piss thin. Put 15/40 in a REAL Detroit and see what happens...It will start knocking so bad it could even cause runaway. I had a worn out 6.2 with 285k on the clock and I ran 30w in the winter and 40w in the summer. Helped alot with consumption.
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I ran 15/40 in my 4-71 for years(sold it),got a 4-53 in a tractor,run only 15/40 in it since rebuild 3000 hrs ago.Never no problem.
 
I seem to have excessive blow-by for 108k miles. My gearhead buddy said to check out a dragster gas engine blow-by vent and run a tube to mid way on the 4" exhaust pipe and add a A.I.R. one way valve. You are not letting the engine eat the air at turbo, but letting the draw of the exhaust burn it up??

I have no idea if this would work or do any good. Ad some replies to the thought and do without the CRD?

Weasel
 
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