My 2005 Yukon XL

[DieselSlug]

Was driving yesterday and heard a big thud and something dragging. Ended up being a large really frozen chunk wedged between the body rocker, running board, and the frame. It swung down, hit the ground and wedged up into the body/frame. Ended up breaking my snow brush, luckily had some long screw drivers allowing me to stab it apart. Picture doesn't do this thing justice, was nearly 2-feet long.

 

[jrsavoie]

Was driving yesterday and heard a big thud and something dragging. Ended up being a large really frozen chunk wedged between the body rocker, running board, and the frame. It swung down, hit the ground and wedged up into the body/frame. Ended up breaking my snow brush, luckily had some long screw drivers allowing me to stab it apart. Picture doesn't do this thing justice, was nearly 2-feet long.
View attachment 97986

In Chicago, you could have found a pot hole to drive over

 

[DieselSlug]

Was a cold one today. Just below zero this AM with strong winds resulting in -20 to -30 degree wind chills. We had a good 5-inches with heavy drifting. The Yukon was doing its thing till I just completed plow then I could no longer shift to gears 2 and 1. Of course we had an hour trip planned so I limited my shifting as the fear was my shift cable may be about to snap. Only one other time I noticed it was very stiff to get into drive. When I got home today from our 2-hour round trip it shifted totally fine.

Not sure whats going on, something with extreme colds, shifter cable binding, or something in the column shifter mechanism. Gotta keep an eye on this one.

Also in need of an oil change, got the supplies but it's just been stupid cold.

 

[dbrannon79]

Only thing I can think of is maybe ice build up around the shift arm on the trans and froze solid. there is or should be a rubber boot on the end of the cable like what's on the end of a shock, if that filled up with ice that could have caused it. could it have anything to do with that hard ice block that got caught under there?

on my 95 the shifter cable's outer shielding split open where it runs under the carpet before going through the floor, but that only caused the shifter to move and not actually shift.

 

[DieselSlug]

Only thing I can think of is maybe ice build up around the shift arm on the trans and froze solid. there is or should be a rubber boot on the end of the cable like what's on the end of a shock, if that filled up with ice that could have caused it. could it have anything to do with that hard ice block that got caught under there?

on my 95 the shifter cable's outer shielding split open where it runs under the carpet before going through the floor, but that only caused the shifter to move and not actually shift.

Im sure the underside is coated in heavy ice build up. Its been so cold so long that it hasnt had a chnace to melt at all. Could very well be a blockage, was just strange as I think geats 2 and 1 worked first thing when the truck was completely frozen.

Last I inspected the shifter cable when I did the trans fluid and filter all looked well. Current forecast might hit low 30s next weekend.

All the vehicles were cranky this am at -15, but we're alive.

 

[DieselSlug]

Got the oil changed today after trying to unfreeze the Yukon. Sat in the shop all day and still dripping.

Embarrassed to admit this, but I was way overdue on this oil change. I normally go 5k mile intervals. I didnt realize I was nearly 7k... had more metallic sludge than I would have hoped. Remainder of oil looked ok though.

 

[DieselSlug]

Also did something I wouldn't normally do. Picked up an aftermarket stereo kit from the junkyard for dirt cheap. Im dying for decent Bluetooth. My cheap version works on the stock head unit, but looking for better quality. It came with the interface for the steering controls including plug and play wiring so I dont have to hack mine. I can go back to stock if I need to.

 

[dbrannon79]

Also did something I wouldn't normally do. Picked up an aftermarket stereo kit from the junkyard for dirt cheap. Im dying for decent Bluetooth. My cheap version works on the stock head unit, but looking for better quality. It came with the interface for the steering controls including plug and play wiring so I dont have to hack mine. I can go back to stock if I need to.
View attachment 98058View attachment 98059

Those adapters are getting harder and harder to find now. I’ve been wanting to put an aftermarket stereo in my wife’s 06 trailblazer but it has the factory Bose sound and onstar which I already disabled but it runs everything on canbus. Canbus is one of the reasons I absolutely hate newer electronics!!

 

[monkeywrench0786]

To date I have put almost 6K miles on it, working on some small clunks that I still haven't fully solved. It is now fully aligned with lifetime alignment as well as new rear sway bar end links and all new sway bar bushings. Next big focus is A-Arm bushings.
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Had my first failure stranding me (only for 15 minutes). Blown heater hose at the crimp.
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As you can see in the background above I cut the other heater hose off (it was being a PITA) and looped it back to the water pump. Been driving it like this for the last few days haha. All new quick connects and hoses are ordered and should be here tomorrow.
View attachment 73962

I see you're the never stranded unless it's serious guy, I own two of these and they all have the same issues about 11-15 things that affect them all. Nice score I wouldn't kick it outta my driveway. Doing steering wheel radio controls add on w all factory stuff tomorrow.

 

[DieselSlug]

I see you're the never stranded unless it's serious guy, I own two of these and they all have the same issues about 11-15 things that affect them all. Nice score I wouldn't kick it outta my driveway. Doing steering wheel radio controls add on w all factory stuff tomorrow.

Best part about these older (not that 05 is that old, but I guess it is!) vehicles!

 

[DieselSlug]

I did get the aftermarket radio in. Sounds 10x better even with Bose amp and old speakers still involved. I found out I roasted the mic cable extracting it from the JY vehicle. I ordered a new one today with the best "clarity" ratings from the Jungle site.

I also have a grounding loop noise issue which I have always had on the XM frequency with the Bluetooth dongle. Plan is to try a trick for grounding out the RCA jack plug shields to the head unit case. Quite a few claim it works, so its worth a try. Backup plan is PAC inline isolators.

All features on the aftermarket radio work well including the steering wheel control integration!

 

[monkeywrench0786]

Does your Yukon have automatic climate control? If so there is a small circle over your left temple/ ear, when this sensor goes bad it makes noise at a frequency that sounds like feedback. Almost like static or a hissing

 

[DieselSlug]

Does your Yukon have automatic climate control? If so there is a small circle over your left temple/ ear, when this sensor goes bad it makes noise at a frequency that sounds like feedback. Almost like static or a hissing

Yes it does, and I've actually replaced that because it was making noise. Maybe 2-3 years ago IIRC. Good thought though. This noise is definitely coming through all door speakers when radio is on, doesn't matter the source. Since its the door speakers I know those go through RCA connections so thats kinda where my thoughts are coming from.

 

[DieselSlug]

Performed the grounding trick, we will see if it improves anything. My backup plan is to get true RCA filters from PAC. Stripped a small piece of wire, wound it tight, and wrapped it accordingly between some local screws.

Swapped out my junk Duralast universal plug wires and installed a nice set of GM plug wires I pulled off a clean Yukon at the JY.


Also ripped the drivers door apart to replace the heated seat buttons as mine were peeling badly. Still need to find a better #2 button, but in due time.


Took the time to tear apart the door handle as well because it flops in the breeze and you can hear it inside. I assumed the spring was broken but to my surprise after removal, that's not the case. I did grab a spring and associated hardware form a truck at the JY which I ended up swapping the arm as mine was badly worn. The play ended up being form an improperly adjusted door latch rod. It was holding the arm up a bit resulting in the loose handle. I've adjusted it back down and all seems well.

 

[DieselSlug]

Update. The ground wire trick did NOT work. Still lots of RPM noise in the speakers. I just purchased some PAC RCA inline noise filters which should be here Saturday. So annoying, not a fan of the bose setup. I should try and bypass the amp to see if it works, but I know ill miss the amp and sub.

All other repairs are good! Got another round of plowing in tonight.

 

[DieselSlug]

We got blitzed again this morning. Another good 6-inches.

 

[Will L.]

Update. The ground wire trick did NOT work. Still lots of RPM noise in the speakers. I just purchased some PAC RCA inline noise filters which should be here Saturday. So annoying, not a fan of the bose setup. I should try and bypass the amp to see if it works, but I know ill miss the amp and sub.

All other repairs are good! Got another round of plowing in tonight.
View attachment 98100

External Capacitor on alternator? That used to solve a lot of noise. Run a LARGE gauge ground wires temporarily from radio & amplifiers to the battery negative terminal and see if that solves it. If so, time for a big boy ground wire- remember ground wires should ALWAYS be kept short as possible but large diameter as possible.

 

[DieselSlug]

External Capacitor on alternator? That used to solve a lot of noise. Run a LARGE gauge ground wires temporarily from radio & amplifiers to the battery negative terminal and see if that solves it. If so, time for a big boy ground wire- remember ground wires should ALWAYS be kept short as possible but large diameter as possible.

I would assume its all internal, I think that's the case on a GMT800. The alternator is newer (3-years old) as I replaced it in a precautionary manner back when I got the Yukon. I actually have an old spare alternator in the basement for a backup. Would it be worth trying to unplug the alternator charge lead and see if the noise is still present?

I've done a partial "big 3" upgrade (meaning 1/3 of it). I added in a larger positive lead from the alternator to the battery. The original grounds are all still present. I have cleaned several grounds in the past less the large ground going direct to the drivers side engine block and any other grounds that are harder to access (behind dash, in cab, etc.). I've done the PCM grounds to the engine block, grounds under the radiator core support, and the grounds to the drivers side body mount within the last 2-ish years. I also installed the secondary battery with large leads directly to the main battery to help with plowing.

I've been trying to research the grounds @ the head unit as well as the grounds @ the amp. Another test thought was to back probe link them and ground to a common point somewhere to see if that worked.

 

[Will L.]

Im saying consider adding an external capacitor
But solve grounding first

 

[DieselSlug]

Im saying consider adding an external capacitor
But solve grounding first

Ah, 10-4. I read that wrong.