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Murphy's law at work!!

Mudbath

Mudbath

Old Smoky
Messages
394
Reaction score
1
Location
Alberta, Canada
Cold as hell and a ton of snow and my front differential actuator is pooched. Just blew the 4WD fuse #24 and when I replaced it, it instantly blew again.:mad2: So out I go this morning to have a look, problems is getting the truck up on my ramps without front wheels pulling. I would suspect it has the old thermo actuator so just wanted to make sure I could swamp this year of truck (1995) over to the motor actuator. Where is the best price here in Canada to buy the actuator and conversion harness? Maybe just the harness is damaged but I not usually that lucky. :nonod:
 
Here's a description of the process. You might want to shoot a PM to Chris and ask him about any questions you have.

http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/showthread.php?t=6652&highlight=actuator

You aren't gonna do this outside, are you? If so, wait until Friday or Saturday - it's supposed to warm up to like -2*C. Better than the -20*C today.

Isn't the Bay and Tool Centre still operating in Calgary? It used to be over in Ogden... you could rent a bay and hoist by the hour, also tools if you needed them. Might not be there anymore, it's been like 25 years since I went there, but it's worth a look. Google says

Bay & Tool Centres Ltd
4208 17 Street Southeast, Calgary, AB T2G 3W6
(403) 232-8322‎

Another one is:

U-Fix-It bay and Tools
1001 8 St SE
Calgary AB, T2G 2Z3
(403) 262-3696
 
Thanks Jifaire, I do have a unheated garage enough to do some trouble shooting. I did unplug the old style actuator and the fuse no longer pops so the harness isn't shorted. I connected the solenoid across my battery and the plunger doesn't move. Not working this week or I could check the actuator with an OHM meter. I would suspect the windings are shorted.

Dec 29th must be a bad day as Chris posted exactly one year to the day mine cratered
 
Isn't the Bay and Tool Centre still operating in Calgary? It used to be over in Ogden... you could rent a bay and hoist by the hour, also tools if you needed them.

Wow a fix it your self business!! Brilliant!

They would have so many rules and regulations on that sort of thing here. =(

Not to mention all the lawyers parking out in the lot,,, waiting,, watching,,,
 
Pruittx2 said:
Wow a fix it your self business!! Brilliant!

They would have so many rules and regulations on that sort of thing here. =(

Not to mention all the lawyers parking out in the lot,,, waiting,, watching,,,
Click to expand...

Lawyer-hunting season is my favorite time of year... :D

Like I said, I dunno how they work nowadays, as we're starting to get more 'Americanized' all the time (must be the influence of the late-night infomercials for ambulance-chasers we get on American TV)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zToHQ8oQvgA
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=62xreSr25uI
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y1Qk6QPzuIc
The last time i used the bay and Tool centre, I replaced a tranny in my 68 Cougar XR7. They had all the tools I needed, as well as a disabled mechanic (guy in a wheelchair) that would roam around the shop giving advice to people who needed it - and watching for safety issues. They had 4 working bays and a tool crib, where you could rent tools (like the tranny hoist I needed).

Great place!
 
Do yourself a favor and don't go with the old TLA nor with newer electric version. Go manually with the Posi-Lok System ! THAT is the solution. Slightly cheaper than the electric conversion, a bit more expensive than the old style TLA, but works everytime YOU decide that you need 4WD. It also provides 2Lo and stay engaged, even with the ignition turned of.

Hope that it is alright to post the link here :

http://www.4x4posi-lok.com/

If not, feel free to remove !


Cu,
Sven
 
Thanks Sven, I have researched the Posi-lok before and like the idea, but I went with the Thermo unit again as my local parts guy can have it here for me by tonight. The original lasted 15 years so I took a chance and it is a 5 minute job now.
 
Went with the Thermo Actuator because I could get it locally for a decent price. 10 minutes to install with no modifications.
 

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The thermo actuator will fail when you most need it. I know as I had 3 of them fail on me. Do yourself a favor and get the motorized actuator. Last time I checked you could the actuator for $77 and the harness for $44 on ebay motors. Check out my responses in the following thread:

http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/showthread.php?t=17295

The splice for the harness should be done at the 4 wire plug just behind the fuel filter. The job is a piece of cake.

I have the Posi Lok NIB as I resolve my problem with the motorized actuator and the Posi Lok folks wanted a 25% restocking charge. Let me know if your interested and I'll make you a deal.
 
Big T said:
The thermo actuator will fail when you most need it. I know as I had 3 of them fail on me. Do yourself a favor and get the motorized actuator. Last time I checked you could the actuator for $77 and the harness for $44 on ebay motors. Check out my responses in the following thread:

http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/showthread.php?t=17295

The splice for the harness should be done at the 4 wire plug just behind the fuel filter. The job is a piece of cake.

I have the Posi Lok NIB as I resolve my problem with the motorized actuator and the Posi Lok folks wanted a 25% restocking charge. Let me know if your interested and I'll make you a deal.
Click to expand...

Well the first one lasted for 15 years, so if the other one even goes half that I won't have the truck by then. If it was warmer now and we didn't have all the snow and ice I would of held out for the motor actuator, but -20° C here and my wife uses it as her daily driver so had to get it done quick.
 
Mudbath said:
Well the first one lasted for 15 years, so if the other one even goes half that I won't have the truck by then. If it was warmer now and we didn't have all the snow and ice I would of held out for the motor actuator, but -20° C here and my wife uses it as her daily driver so had to get it done quick.
Click to expand...

-20 or buried deep in mud are typically when they go out. Consider the thermo an interim fix. Get the motorized. They go into gear faster than the thermo in extremely cold weather.

-20? Geez that precludes pissing outside. :eek:
 
Big T said:
-20 or buried deep in mud are typically when they go out. Consider the thermo an interim fix. Get the motorized. They go into gear faster than the thermo in extremely cold weather.

-20? Geez that precludes pissing outside. :eek:
Click to expand...

Naw, it can be done at -40, just do it quickly):h
 
Bullseye240 said:
The TLA pushes a rod into a colar that rest on the axle shaft which is split into two pieces where it exits the differential. The colar is splined like any axle shaft and joins both halves of the axle together. So one side of the diff is always turning regardless of 4X4 use. When the transfer lever is pulled a switch sends power to the TLA and move the rod sliding the colar. The only diff between 4X4 and 2X4 is one axle is no longer disconnected. If the TLA or switch fails the power is sent to where there is less resistance (IE the dissconnected axle) much the same as an old solid axle with lockouts. You unlock one hub and presto no 4X4. If you know how a lockout hub works picture that on one side of the diff only the colar simply slide onto the other half of the axle. Hope this helps.
Click to expand...

I know I pulled this from a thread that was like 60 years old but if this is how the CAD works, then why not just lock it up and forget it. if one axle is still turning the diff then the drag (the only reason to unlock the front axle is to reduce the drag leaving it locked up causes) is still present, you are still spinning the ring gear.......

I don't even see how this stops the diff from turning the front driveshaft so not only are you spinning the ring gear with a diff full of fluid but you are aslo turning the pinion gear that is hooked to a drive shaft that is spinning the front axle side of the transfer case.

nowhere does this system reduce drag...... all it does is reduce wear to one side of the axle......

would it not be better to just lock up the front and forget it? Then the wear would be the same and in motion engagement of the T-case would be smoother....... so what is the reason for the CAD? seems like its only purpose is to have another expensive to fail causing the owner to have to go to the Dealership to get it fixed .........
 
Anubis said:
I know I pulled this from a thread that was like 60 years old but if this is how the CAD works, then why not just lock it up and forget it. if one axle is still turning the diff then the drag (the only reason to unlock the front axle is to reduce the drag leaving it locked up causes) is still present, you are still spinning the ring gear.......

I don't even see how this stops the diff from turning the front driveshaft so not only are you spinning the ring gear with a diff full of fluid but you are aslo turning the pinion gear that is hooked to a drive shaft that is spinning the front axle side of the transfer case.

nowhere does this system reduce drag...... all it does is reduce wear to one side of the axle......

would it not be better to just lock up the front and forget it? Then the wear would be the same and in motion engagement of the T-case would be smoother....... so what is the reason for the CAD? seems like its only purpose is to have another expensive to fail causing the owner to have to go to the Dealership to get it fixed .........
Click to expand...



You also get this possibility from Posi-Lok ! Check out their website !


Cu,
Sven
 
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