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MRB's 1997 Chevy K3500 DRW 6.5 Turbo Diesel

Well, I've been battling random stalling now for a few weeks.

I cleaned ALL grounds wtih a dremel mirror shiny and re-installed.

Still stalling.

Next is to drop my PMD and inspect and clean terminals.

If that still stalls I will remove the PMD ground and clean it off the IP but it looks good, that involves taking upper intake off so that will be the last thing to try.

Last year I had issue and ground cleaning and adding extra grounds eliminated it.

Next strategy is to clean all fuses and relays. I suppose if the ECM fuse is cutting in and out it may do a similar stall?

I am documenting my progress here, as if it ends up being a bad PMD its still under warranty via Heath. Man its nice to have that warranty. However I will triple check everything possible before wasting his time.
 
Any codes Matt?

I've had pmd like stalling with a bad connection on the fsos fuse. It would code however.
 
NVW said:
Any codes Matt?

I've had pmd like stalling with a bad connection on the fsos fuse. It would code however.
Click to expand...

Coded instantly when stalled? I did have a code pop up randomly just assuemd it was boost out of range code, never verified. It did NOT happen at the time of the stall, never does. Hasn't stalled in last few days, maybe I Will clean the fuses next. I wish I had some sort of conductive lube to put on the blades.
 
I use NOALOX Anti-Oxident Joint Compound by Ideal located in the electrical section at Home Depot. Lowes usually markets the Ideal brand too.

Once the nuts/bolts are tight, I'll cover that with Dilectric Grease to keep moisture out. Works so far.
 
Matt Bachand said:
Coded instantly when stalled? I did have a code pop up randomly just assuemd it was boost out of range code, never verified. It did NOT happen at the time of the stall, never does. Hasn't stalled in last few days, maybe I Will clean the fuses next. I wish I had some sort of conductive lube to put on the blades.
Click to expand...
I think that code usually shows up with stalling due to no boost and key on with a dead engine.

It set a code instantly after it stalled
 
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Just normal stock ECM out of boost range random, not at time of stall.

Well, I was idling on the side of the road today when the symptoms acted up. It started running rough, choking, smoking white and had no throttle response.

I was downwind from the smoke and could smell raw diesel, and it was missing and running like ass and smoking bad.

I turned it off, and immediately started it back up and it ran perfectly smooth as normal.

No codes, no other symptoms today, and hasn't stalled or showed this symptom in days.

This has happened a few times, and when I'm moving i usually apply throttle after 5 seconds or so it usually either stalls, or 'fixes' itself and back to normal.

Think its my Heath PMD showing early signs of failure?

It sure does seem like when TD and myself were at Aces house and his was running rough and puking all over the place.
 
Well I cleaned every single ground and now that the weather got into the 20's overnight (here we go again), my truck is randomly running like ass and stalling without warning about 10 times today.

I damn near broke my wrist turning this pig without power assist to avoid hitting another car as it stalled in the middle of a right hand turn at a light.

I live in the 2nd largest city in New England and having a large truck that stalls without warning is a huge hazard.

It must be the PMD??

I will contact Heath and see what he thinks.
 
just to provide some non-educated suggestions, could the ECM going bad be a slight possibility? But I would definitely look into the PMD.
 
Did you use copper coat or somethiing similar and solder all of your electrical connections when you put them back together?

If I was in your situation, I would buy a new Standyne PMD immediately. Rather than risk a serious accident.

If it turns out to not be the PMD at least you will have a good spare. But to me everything indicates a PMD failure.

On the 96 Burb my problems were finally cured by a new ignition switch
 
Talked to Bill and he had me do the 2500 rpm test for a few days and report back to him.

My IP passed this test smooth as glass each and every time I did it, which was about 10-15 times over 3 days based on his requests.

After hearing the results he mailed me a replacement PMD Isolator unit.


While removing my old unit, I could tell what the failure point was.

All the bolts that hold the PMD to the aluminum plate were rusted/rotted/desitegrated. Thus the tension between the PMD and the heatsync was compromised, resulting in PMD failure.

So Upon re-installation of the new unit I Put a dab of silicone over each head of the Allen bolts holding the PMD together.

Rust belt is a nasty, nasty place for vehicles.

My experience with Bill is a great as everyone else's. Wonderful guy to talk to, and great guy to do business with.
 
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