Acesneights1
New Member
They SUCK !!!!
Had to come in for a minute and vent. More to come later..gonna pour rain soon...:mad2:
Had to come in for a minute and vent. More to come later..gonna pour rain soon...:mad2:
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Motor mounts...
- Thread starter Acesneights1
- Start date
I like your new avatar.
Have you looked at Energy Suspension motor mounts? I want to R&R mine, but would like to know if anyone has tried the ES mounts.
Have you looked at Energy Suspension motor mounts? I want to R&R mine, but would like to know if anyone has tried the ES mounts.
nobby
Old Timey Diesel Guy
Yep somehow I just seem to keep putting mine off. Got an OEM set acting as a paper weight under my desk for at least 6 months now. 
Cheers
Nobby
Cheers
Nobby
midniteplowboyy
Recruit
Burning oil,
I used these, http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ENS-3-1121R , in my 93 2wd diesel shells, fit good. I havent cranked the truck yet though, but think there still soft enough not to vibrate to bad. I would only use factory GM ones(if you can find them) or poly's, the stock replacement ones suck.
I used these, http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ENS-3-1121R , in my 93 2wd diesel shells, fit good. I havent cranked the truck yet though, but think there still soft enough not to vibrate to bad. I would only use factory GM ones(if you can find them) or poly's, the stock replacement ones suck.
Thats the ones I was thinking of. I did use those on my big block Chevelle, but hardly ever drive that car, so just wondering how they hold up in a diesel day to day? Vibrations??........
buddy
Active Member
I have a set of energy suspension 1121 mounts to go on soon too. After seeing how much space the rubber has to sag I wouldnt use stock type. The Energy suspension actually fill the clamps.
I have them in at least 2 trucks. No vibration problems at all. I also have the ES tranny/transfer case mounts. They are all I'll ever use. The rubber now days is crap compared to 10 years ago.
OK, ES it is.
orrum
New Member
Hey Ace u know thats the dead mans hand!!!! I liked Sleplock better.
Acesneights1
New Member
I must have gotten the wrong one. I got ENS-3-1121G and there is no way this thing would fit. it's huge so I ended up getting chinese made crap from Advance because I could not tell it would not fit until I had the old one out and now I was stuck...:mad2:
What a bastard of a job.
OK first I did not take alot of pics cause I was covered in grease and fighting the weather but I don't see any possible way to do the drivers side one without dropping the diff and believe me, I did not want to.
I jacked it up and put the truck on stands and took both front wheels off. Took off drivers side inner wheel wheel mudflap only I did not do pass side mount as time did not allow and having the diff dropped made no difference to pass side so it can be done later. The diff has 4 bolts and a set of wires. Unplug the actuator. I unbolted the axles from the diff but I think it was unnecessary. My pan was to pull the diff completely out of the truck but it will not come out unless you take off the steering linkage as well and I was able to get to the bolts by hanging the diff until it hit the steering linkage. Once the diff is hanging ther is BARELY enough room for me to get my hands in there. The oil cooler lines block the bottom MM bolt but don't worry , when you lift the motor you can get to it without removing the lines. OK next step is hook the hoist up and pull the MM crossbolt. I used a 5/8 on the head nad a 11/16 on the nut although they are probably 16 and 17 mm. Once that bolt is out you can lift the motor but a word of caution. I have a Dmax fan which the blades bend so I did not take the upper shroud off but I would advise taking it off especially if you have a steel fan. Now once the motor is jack as high as you can get it(the pass mount is still bolted) you can reach the bottom MM bolt. Take the 3 bolts out(15mm nuts and bolts) . The mount can slide up towards the steering column. Took a bit of wiggling but came out. I installed the new one with red locktite on the MM bolts. I sure as shit don't wanna be doing this again until I unload this douche...Putting the diff back Up I did the lower drivers side bolt first but left it loose then finagled the upper drivers side. That one is a whore and once I got it partially in I had to use a long piece of square stock and pound it in. That also barely clears the oil cooler lines. In fact I had to pry them back a tad to get it in pace. That is the worst of the job. Rest goes back together in reverse of dissasembly. I used red locktite on the axle bolts as well since they do not have lock washers and them suckers spin all the time. Also Don't even f around with chinese made garbage mounts. Go to GM. They fit like shit and the holes did not line up like all crap made overseas. Why can't we just nuke them..:mad2:
Before tightening the drivers side lower diff bolt make sure to align the bracket for the skidplate. I actually bolted the skidplate up before whacking the diff bolt down. Not the neatest job but I was pressed for time as the monsoon is coming. If you don't have air tools I'd send it out unless you have alot of patience. Air helps ALOT. All in all I'd say 2.5-3 hrs. Sorry about the pics guys but again was covered in grease and in a hurry. All the nastyness under there is from some kind of weirdo fitting with wires on the back of the PS pump. Can't see exactly where it's leaking but it is leaking.
What a bastard of a job.
OK first I did not take alot of pics cause I was covered in grease and fighting the weather but I don't see any possible way to do the drivers side one without dropping the diff and believe me, I did not want to.
I jacked it up and put the truck on stands and took both front wheels off. Took off drivers side inner wheel wheel mudflap only I did not do pass side mount as time did not allow and having the diff dropped made no difference to pass side so it can be done later. The diff has 4 bolts and a set of wires. Unplug the actuator. I unbolted the axles from the diff but I think it was unnecessary. My pan was to pull the diff completely out of the truck but it will not come out unless you take off the steering linkage as well and I was able to get to the bolts by hanging the diff until it hit the steering linkage. Once the diff is hanging ther is BARELY enough room for me to get my hands in there. The oil cooler lines block the bottom MM bolt but don't worry , when you lift the motor you can get to it without removing the lines. OK next step is hook the hoist up and pull the MM crossbolt. I used a 5/8 on the head nad a 11/16 on the nut although they are probably 16 and 17 mm. Once that bolt is out you can lift the motor but a word of caution. I have a Dmax fan which the blades bend so I did not take the upper shroud off but I would advise taking it off especially if you have a steel fan. Now once the motor is jack as high as you can get it(the pass mount is still bolted) you can reach the bottom MM bolt. Take the 3 bolts out(15mm nuts and bolts) . The mount can slide up towards the steering column. Took a bit of wiggling but came out. I installed the new one with red locktite on the MM bolts. I sure as shit don't wanna be doing this again until I unload this douche...Putting the diff back Up I did the lower drivers side bolt first but left it loose then finagled the upper drivers side. That one is a whore and once I got it partially in I had to use a long piece of square stock and pound it in. That also barely clears the oil cooler lines. In fact I had to pry them back a tad to get it in pace. That is the worst of the job. Rest goes back together in reverse of dissasembly. I used red locktite on the axle bolts as well since they do not have lock washers and them suckers spin all the time. Also Don't even f around with chinese made garbage mounts. Go to GM. They fit like shit and the holes did not line up like all crap made overseas. Why can't we just nuke them..:mad2:
Before tightening the drivers side lower diff bolt make sure to align the bracket for the skidplate. I actually bolted the skidplate up before whacking the diff bolt down. Not the neatest job but I was pressed for time as the monsoon is coming. If you don't have air tools I'd send it out unless you have alot of patience. Air helps ALOT. All in all I'd say 2.5-3 hrs. Sorry about the pics guys but again was covered in grease and in a hurry. All the nastyness under there is from some kind of weirdo fitting with wires on the back of the PS pump. Can't see exactly where it's leaking but it is leaking.
Attachments
Acesneights1
New Member
BTW the diff bolts are probably metric but 15/16 worked fine on the pass side ones and 13/16 fit nice n drivers side.
On a positive note, the vibration seems to be fixed. I am sure the leaking PS pump killed the mount which is why I was not concerned about the pass side. Now I gotta figure out what the heck is leaking. It looks to be coming from that fitting with the wires on it and the line. It almost looks like it slides on and a snap ring holds it ?? Never saw that before. Maybe an oring in there or something ?? Gotta call GM Someone replaced the PS. Maybe it was done under recall and I can get them to fix it.
On a positive note, the vibration seems to be fixed. I am sure the leaking PS pump killed the mount which is why I was not concerned about the pass side. Now I gotta figure out what the heck is leaking. It looks to be coming from that fitting with the wires on it and the line. It almost looks like it slides on and a snap ring holds it ?? Never saw that before. Maybe an oring in there or something ?? Gotta call GM Someone replaced the PS. Maybe it was done under recall and I can get them to fix it.
Acesneights1
New Member
That is why I have it...It was on the bug shield off a KW that rolled over while dumping...
buddy
Active Member
Now that you got the old ones out, maybe you can try getting the Energy Suspension mount in there. On the instructions its a tight fit such that they expect you to install it without it being smashed togther, just some loose zip ties at first and then when the weight closes the clamshel then bolt it down. Barry uses a different part number 3.1116, but the ES catalogue actually says 3.1152 is for 4WD 6.5 trucks.
Energy Suspensions catalogue list the 4WD option for 6.2/6.5 as 3.1152, only in common with the 454. but in the same 2WD truck the 454 uses 3.1121, like several the 350 options too.
in some looking I think 3.1116 is what they call out for older 80s trucks with 4 bolts to the frame shells, and 3.1121 is called out for 3 bolts to the frame shells.
The catalogue says
"3.1152 Replaces the insert for G.M. 6.2L, 6.5L Diesel and 7.4L In many 1988-00 4WD Trucks/SUV’s. For O.E mount number 15659675 and 15732188."
Energy Suspensions catalogue list the 4WD option for 6.2/6.5 as 3.1152, only in common with the 454. but in the same 2WD truck the 454 uses 3.1121, like several the 350 options too.
in some looking I think 3.1116 is what they call out for older 80s trucks with 4 bolts to the frame shells, and 3.1121 is called out for 3 bolts to the frame shells.
The catalogue says
"3.1152 Replaces the insert for G.M. 6.2L, 6.5L Diesel and 7.4L In many 1988-00 4WD Trucks/SUV’s. For O.E mount number 15659675 and 15732188."
buddy
Active Member
Barry has pics in this thread http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/showthread.php?14319-Engine-Mount-Replacement/page2
3500GMC
What T F, over
Two numbers for a 'mount' that will fasten either way?
The first number is 'no comprende' Second came back with a 'mount' description on gm parts direct.
Interestingly, I wanted GM stuff for my '93 and the dealer said 'nope'... no longer serviced.
*sadface*
DZZ71
"Living The 6.5 Dream"
your running a fram oil filter?
Acesneights1
New Member
yep. Always have. Never had an issue.
Acesneights1
New Member
Well, drove the burb to work this am and no vibration. The first clue was one I put the Dmax fan on and had to hack up the shroud. I have never had to do that in the past. Now it sits in a way I would not have had to. No worries, a touch more clearance isn't horrible. Truck seems to be fixed. Now to get a new windshield...I miss the OBS trucks. I could do those myself.
Michaeljp86
EVIL GENIUS
I need to get mounts for my GMC bad, I think Ill try and hold off for this winter being I dont drive it in the winter I can leave it tore apart for a long time.
Acesneights1
New Member
Get GM ones the autoparts ones were garbage but I didn't have a choice.