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More Work! any help or suggestions?

Guess what thread you win this year! 🤪

I would have guessed a clogged oil filter, esp with seafoam cleaner, and been right... Yeah, but some other issues before you go through a bunch of them silly small oil filters. Wait, I will upgrade that to problem.

Oil Sludge is still a thing.

Take a look up into the engine and see if the cylinders are scored, camshaft flat lobes, etc. Pull the #8 rod cap and check the bearing as I recall they are the last in line. You will know then how bad things are. (The 6.0 LS engines would spin #7, and or #8, as the oil pickup is stupidly in the front and during a hard launch at the track the oil pickup gets uncovered and sucks air.)

Now that you know it needs an engine make him a cash offer for 'parts' and fix it up proper with a good engine yourself. IMO No reason to spend 10 seconds putting this mess back together without fixing by rebuilding the engine. Just cleaning it out will be 1/2 the rebuild benefit. These are some nice rigs and you can't buy them in good shape for a $4000 with an engine that runs and drives even with bad/bald tires.

Hit the ads for some new take off tires that fit or somewhat used and are not aged out.
 
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Our doomsday sounding friend in Az is probably right on this one.

I would consider the cheapest oil and replace 1 quart with diesel fuel. 25% diesel is the highest you want to run. And since only running 1/2 hour max- dont fill all the way with oil. Use 3 quarts oil and 1 quart diesel. You don’t need the full oil reserve. Then do it again. Use a new filter each time.
The delco filters get a lot of slack from people but watching the actual tests on them- they did pretty well, outperformed almost all the big name ones. Not the best but for this engine is plenty good.

Flush out that sludge so some oil can actually gets its way to the bearings…
Then see what you get. If it recovers - then dump in good oil and another new filter, along with a can of ‘engine restore’. That stuff is proven to help bearing and cylinder wear.

Longer term it could still be worth a new oil pump- but I would bump up using 4 quarts proper oil and one quart thicker oil before trying that. If this doesn’t bring desired results- then its a long block candidate.
 
Well surprisingly all the gunk came off from the pan, pickup tube and crank cover without too much scrubbing. I decided to clean them up and see what I was in for. My friend want to try just what Will's saying. clean out as much as we can then flush it as long as it survives. we took off to the parts store and to wally world. grabbed some cheap oil and a filter at wally world, then stopped in O'reilly's to pick up the o-ring for the pickup tube. While I was in there the parts man asked me what I was up to just getting the o-ring. I told him the story on it, the first thing he said was "I bet I can guess what caused it" I mentioned the oil changes at Bradzoil, he went "Yup been there, seen that" he mentioned that I could plastigauge the rods and mains to check them for clearance, as long as the crank wasn't scarred up too bad, I could slip new bearings in if needed, even do an "inframe" too if I wanted to go that far. That it wouldn't take but maybe 30 minutes to plastigauge while it's open. He also said to do a compression test too without the pan on, and to pull a valve cover and check the oil drains. Use a shop vac while picking them clean. He said as long as it all checked out ok, to do about what @Will L. said with flushing.

it gave us a little more hope for it hearing from y'all and a complete stranger selling us parts. So right now that's our plan, clean and check, then hope. LOL

I Have never used plastigauge before, but it looks fairly easy.
 
dbrannon79 said:
Well surprisingly all the gunk came off from the pan, pickup tube and crank cover without too much scrubbing. I decided to clean them up and see what I was in for. My friend want to try just what Will's saying. clean out as much as we can then flush it as long as it survives. we took off to the parts store and to wally world. grabbed some cheap oil and a filter at wally world, then stopped in O'reilly's to pick up the o-ring for the pickup tube. While I was in there the parts man asked me what I was up to just getting the o-ring. I told him the story on it, the first thing he said was "I bet I can guess what caused it" I mentioned the oil changes at Bradzoil, he went "Yup been there, seen that" he mentioned that I could plastigauge the rods and mains to check them for clearance, as long as the crank wasn't scarred up too bad, I could slip new bearings in if needed, even do an "inframe" too if I wanted to go that far. That it wouldn't take but maybe 30 minutes to plastigauge while it's open. He also said to do a compression test too without the pan on, and to pull a valve cover and check the oil drains. Use a shop vac while picking them clean. He said as long as it all checked out ok, to do about what @Will L. said with flushing.

it gave us a little more hope for it hearing from y'all and a complete stranger selling us parts. So right now that's our plan, clean and check, then hope. LOL

I Have never used plastigauge before, but it looks fairly easy.
Click to expand...
It is easy. Just dont turn the cranking shaft with the torque on the mains and rods. Tends to smear that plasti gauge.
 
dbrannon79 said:
he mentioned that I could plastigauge the rods and mains
Click to expand...

Don't bother unless you need a reason to rebuild this engine. They will either be visually FUBAR from loss of oil or look like normal wear. Seeing copper backing color is worn out of course. Bearings only when the valves, cylinders, and rings have a lifetime or two on them... IMO a visual for damage is good enough.

Hopefully you found the problem of a clogged oil filter, o ring leak, and sludge clogged pickup screen.

The reason I say "Don't Bother with anything short of a rebuild" is because some of the sludge can break free and completely clog an oil gallery. Depending on what one you could have a rod ventilate the block. Clogged arteries --> unclog them with cleaner --> risk of a "stroke" if the debris breaking free clogs something.

Inframe = NO! The block needs to be hot tanked to get the sludge out for any rebuild.

dbrannon79 said:
and a filter at
Click to expand...

To help this engine "recover" I would be changing oil filters AND cutting the used ones open to see what they are catching. "A" filter ain't gong to cut it. I would replace the filter after first engine warm up. Decide after cut open if the oil needs to be dumped as well.

Yes there will be a mess under the valve covers. Cleaning under them will eliminate a lot of the sludge.

These small oil filters deserve their reputation as they simply don't have any capacity to spare: so if something goes wrong like a chain failure or adding AFM ... It's a bad rash over the internet of these small filters clogging up. Even AMSOIL had trouble with their filters clogging with their oil: so don't expect much from them as one can only shove so much media in that small can.
 
right now the plan is to open up the engine further. he had wanted to just put the pan back and do an oil change every tank of fuel adding something to dissolve what was left, but I talked him into pulling the valve covers, intake, and the valley cover to expose the entire engine other than the heads. I didn't say anything but I'm gonna use the pressure washer on it too, then coat it all in some penetrate oil to stop rust. get some diesel and wash it out as best I can with the block open but still in the burb.

the thing that convinced him was me saying that this stuff isn't gonna dissolve and just break up into smaller pieces clogging up the pickup tube again. I showed him what was down in the bottom of the parts washer filled with diesel I used to clean up the pan and parts I already pulled.

I watched a youtube revival yesterday where a guy had an older dodge 318 with the same issue. he pulled the engine though, on the stand with everything removed other than the heads he power washed the innards of the engine. then washed it with a brush and some diesel. added some assembly lube on areas of the cam, lifters, and rockers. slapped it back together and it looked rather clean other than some staining where the cast with somewhat still black but no sludge or chunks were left.

I figure I can pump some oil into the engine bearing through the oil pressure sender port if I can rig up some contraption to apply a little pressure in it like a grease gun but with motor oil or even some lucas oil, something thick to get in there without disturbing the mains or rod bearings. even help lube the cam too. then slap it all back together with the cost of just gaskets. depending on the condition of the timing chain and oil pump. do those too. I told him I will inspect the pump and chain, but if I see any scarring in the pump, it's toast.

I'm not sure if there is a way to "prime" this style engine with the pump driven by the crank. I want oil at the crank and cam before I try cranking it after this kind of washing.
 
You have to use a prelube system to prime it. Basically a pressurized can of oil with a ball valve then hose hooked up to an oil port.

Like if you use a refillable brake cleaner can that you charge with air via schrader valve.
But instead of spray nozzle you need something you can attach a hose to.
 
I'm sure I could rig something up like that. how much pressure would it need? 10 psi just to get oil to all the bearings? I wonder if a full bottle of oil with a cap adapted with a hose to one of the ports and squeezing it would be enough just to get oil to them. at first thought I bet I can rig up my pump sprayer to do this. just connect to the hose coming off it and add a simple ball valve on the hose to the oil port. I'd have to use regular engine oil, I don't think lucas oil would work as thick as it is. But the bearings would have something in them to lube it all up.
 
dbrannon79 said:
I'm sure I could rig something up like that. how much pressure would it need? 10 psi just to get oil to all the bearings? I wonder if a full bottle of oil with a cap adapted with a hose to one of the ports and squeezing it would be enough just to get oil to them. at first thought I bet I can rig up my pump sprayer to do this. just connect to the hose coming off it and add a simple ball valve on the hose to the oil port. I'd have to use regular engine oil, I don't think lucas oil would work as thick as it is. But the bearings would have something in them to lube it all up.
Click to expand...
I've used lift pumps and fuel pumps for a variety of applications.

I think that would work. Especially if you were going to pump some thin synthetic through first.
Seems like the one Holly pump I had would shut off at 60 psi.

I'm not sure what pressure our lift Pumps shut off at. I've used them to pump a lot of no diesel fluids
 
I have not had any time to mess with this project yet, but I was thinking about the fuel rail over the weekend since I did energize the fuel pump and attempt to get the last bit of bad gas out of the tank noticing where the leak was coming out from on the rails. I did a little googling on the innerwebs but wasn't able to find much. There is what looks like a center pin hole in the middle of the cap on each rail. the fuel is seeping out from this pin hole!

I thought I would post a pic of a random fuel rail I found online to show exactly where the leak is coming from. both left and right rails and doing the same! can I fix up some JB weld, gas resistant epoxy or some kind of pookey to seal this up?

1694402291124.png
 
dbrannon79 said:
I'm sure I could rig something up like that. how much pressure would it need? 10 psi just to get oil to all the bearings? I wonder if a full bottle of oil with a cap adapted with a hose to one of the ports and squeezing it would be enough just to get oil to them. at first thought I bet I can rig up my pump sprayer to do this. just connect to the hose coming off it and add a simple ball valve on the hose to the oil port. I'd have to use regular engine oil, I don't think lucas oil would work as thick as it is. But the bearings would have something in them to lube it all up.
Click to expand...
I borrowed a pressure oil feed system from oriellys over here.
I made sure the canister was clean then poured in my five quarts of oil. Presurized the canister. Hooked it to the oil pressure sender port and opened the valve. Slowly turned over the cranking shaft until all the oil was dispersed.
Worked mighty slick
 
dbrannon79 said:
I have not had any time to mess with this project yet, but I was thinking about the fuel rail over the weekend since I did energize the fuel pump and attempt to get the last bit of bad gas out of the tank noticing where the leak was coming out from on the rails. I did a little googling on the innerwebs but wasn't able to find much. There is what looks like a center pin hole in the middle of the cap on each rail. the fuel is seeping out from this pin hole!

I thought I would post a pic of a random fuel rail I found online to show exactly where the leak is coming from. both left and right rails and doing the same! can I fix up some JB weld, gas resistant epoxy or some kind of pookey to seal this up?

View attachment 83420
Click to expand...
But why would fuel be leaking from those two positions.
Best to find out why and do a proper fix.
Even drill them out, tap them and pipe plug them but do not rely on some kind of epoxy to hold in that much pressure. Especially on fuel.
I vote drill, tap and pipe plug.
 
But then with that donut affair thing in the way I cant tell what that is that the arrow is pointing to.
Is that the cylinder head ? A sort of a pipe that might be too hard to drill and tap ?
If its a material thats hard then drill and tap is not an option.
 
its the round end cap on the fuel rail. about 1-1/4" diameter with the center depression being about 1/2" diameter. it looks like a tiny pin hole made into the center. on these that are on this engine, the whole thing is silver color like bare metal unlike the pic I posted where the center is black like it's coated with something.

I will look online more and see with I can turn up.
 
Here is a photo I found on Fleabay. the rail it's self is plastic and the silver metal caps look to be crimped on each end. what's silly is there both leaking from what seems to be a pin hole in the center of the crimped on end cap. looking online I only found one post where someone had this issue but never posted a fix.

Someone tell me if I am wrong. this engine is the same as an "LS" engine where I could get an aftermarket fuel rail setup and run it with the stock injectors? only thing I would need is a remote located pressure regulator?

a rail like this ?

Amazon.com

www.amazon.com

and a pressure regulator like this?

Amazon.com

www.amazon.com


1694481876585.png
 
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