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More fueling

6.5L

6.5L

Old Iron Runner
Messages
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Location
Northwest Wyoming
So as you guys know, I am gonna try to turn my fuel up this week, and just had a quick question. Due to a long raging battle between me and a bolt on my throttle bracket, I cannot go in through the top like I always do. So I am going to go in the side. I know how to do it but just had a quick question. My only complaint of going through the side is how much of a pain it is going to be to get the bolts put back in? Anybody find a easy way to do this? and can you retard the injection pump far enough that it would make it any easier to access??
 
I went through the side on 4 trucks, 3 easily then the 4th...After having dropped one and taking 37 years or so :mad2:to get it back, I melted a straw around the head of the fastener to yonder mac tool driving it. After installing a bit of wiggling and the plastic breaks free, then 15 seconds with a pick cleaned up both nicely. Then snug down.

Of coarse the last time I did one was my hummer with the van manifolds on it. Top only option passed the governor, but hey anytime you can circumvent a governing body is good right? Well my 7 year old thinks I'm funny...
 
Hey, I laughed haha and that is a handy thought. I got one of those super flexible magnets I keep at the shop just for such an occasion. That valley underneath the injection pump eats parts haha I was mostly wondering about retarding the pump if it makes enough room to make it easier. That would alleviate some of these problems
 
You could take the intake off and loosen the injector lines at the pump and take the 3 bolts out, not just loose, and maybe twist it enough to get at it better....
 
Sorry, ment to say I tried that. Not worth it you only get a touch of room and the aggravation is now just moved to the dang 12 pointed nut, you know the one... That reminds me I have to buy a third wrench for that and I am not loaning this one out.

I never tried taking the intake off. That much time i would just go through the top. The governor isn't that big a deal.
 
Put a paper towel below the IP to catch the screws. Do not completely remove the bottom screw. Clean the pump with brake clean before starting in that area. Oil drain pan under bell housing for the quart of diesel that will dump out. I wouldn't bother rotating the pump. I used thin wrenches and a wobble head socket. I used a bit of paper towel to keep the screw jammed in the socket 2 layers I think. Then you need a mirror to rotate the engine from the alt pulley to see the fuel screw. Make sure the gasket gets back on to put back together.

IMO it is easier to go through the top. I have only used the side once when the IP is on the engine and I get to do this twice a year for emissions. Once to pass and once for power...
 
Just to clarify, a 1/2 turn past stock is about all these pumps can take right? Does anybody know what the stock fuel rate is and a fuel rate of a db2831-4911 at half a turn?
 
I thought it was 1/4 turn. I did a half turn, but mine was 1/4 turn to go from natural aspiration to a turbo stock level, then another 1/4 turn for the added fuel from the stock turbo setting up to max. My gm 6 is a stocker and injectors as well. Wot from a stop gets me a 20" ball of smoke for the effort.
 
You can bury the screw till it won't turn anymore. I ran 2/3 turn but the GM3 hated that. The 6.2 pump I have was set full in from the rebuilder.
 
You mean any further than 1/4 where I am at now, or any further than 1/4 turn past where I am now? I thought if you went to far that it would screw up something in the pump
 
6.5L said:
You mean any further than 1/4 where I am at now, or any further than 1/4 turn past where I am now? I thought if you went to far that it would screw up something in the pump
Click to expand...

I think there is 1 full turn available from stock. Depends on the pump as some have more some less as it is a calibration screw after all. I ran 2/3 turn from stock. You will feel the screw stop at the end of it's travel if you reach it.
There was some debate about the leaf springs hitting the cam, but, this was dismissed by a pump builder on here and the 6.2 pump I got rebuilt is all the way in.
 
It won't hurt anything to turn the screw all the way in... as for how much the pump will be putting out, that is unknown without having it on a machine to measure the fuel rate...
 
It depends what leaf spring you have,there's at least 3 different ones. You can read the number through the little door on the side, -2 is most common. -3 is the one you want, it gives you pretty close to full plunger travel. Might be 75 percent,and combined with different number shoes will give you full plunger travel .
 
Well I went another 1/4 turn. It runs amazing, and nothing seems broken. After dealing with the side door I finally said to hell with this headache and just pulled the intake manifold like I should have to begun with. Anyways, great success.
 
Glad to hear good results from the power. I never pulled the intake, wish I would have tried it, cause I remember what a pita it was.
 
Boost hasn't changed much, since when the valve starts to open, the 18cm housing is just too big. Until headstuds this is what I have to work with, but damn does she pull hard. Still smoke free. EGT's have remained nearly the same since I boost a lot faster now. Max I have gotten to so far is 900*. I am sure 1000* can happen. Time will tell. I have only drove it about 10 minutes since I did it.
 
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