Mods/unmods to my 95/99 6.5's? Need advice.

[aLpHaSuRf]

Okay, here it lies. So far I sold the 1996 5.7 Tahoe just this morning to the first looker! A project for father and son for the son's first vehicle. Nice guy and I made $200 bucks in 2 weeks... Not bad.

Now the PO Dave AKA spdgofast has offered to buy back my 6.5 Tahoe. Now after having the 6.5 Suburban and driving it around here is what I sit. The 99 starts much easier but I have not had the chance to go back to the stock glo plugs and remove the button and revert to key ignition and instrument cluster light for glo plugs. Maybe once I go back she will start easier... I pray anyway.

I am seriously considering selling the 1999 6.5 2hoe! was offered $8,000 turned it down said at least $9,000 lost the sale he bought a used duramax. Got his message tonight. Then scratch my head... & I think...

Can I swap the Air Intake, The Holset hx35 turbo set up and the non egr manifold from my 99 to my 95 and put the 95 turbo and parts on the 99 if I am going to sell the 99? Will my 95 run better? My goal would be to do those mods in the future anyways. Why should I pay for them in the future when I have them on the vehicle I want to let go of? Does my 95 have a non EGR intake and manifold from factory? I put engine pics on my last thread. Can any of you guys tell?

If I can't swap the parts please educate me so I understand please. If I can't how much will it cost me to do the same mods for the parts? Can I handle installing them myself?

Advice... Advice.. Advice all you 6.5TD guru's! All input and advice is greatly appreciated.

 

[ak diesel driver]

post your pics again I've looked at too many to remember yours

 

[aLpHaSuRf]

 

[ak diesel driver]

that's a non EGR manifold

 

[aLpHaSuRf]

that's a non EGR manifold

Thank you. Well does anyone have any advice for me? I really don't want to change any parts from one to the other and most likely won't. This can be educational to me and hopefully other members as well. I am more curious to find out what mods/upgrades I should do to my 1995 6.5TD Suburban because now that my garage is clean and I did in fact put the 99 up for sale. So now I am going to focus on putting TLC into my 1995 Suburban 6.5 and I want to make her my own by doing things I want to her. like BAD things I can only whisper in her ear.. lol ha ha ha

 

[ak diesel driver]

first thing I would do is an OPS relay mod. Leroy sells them or make your own and also add lift pump run during WTS.

 

[aLpHaSuRf]

first thing I would do is an OPS relay mod. Leroy sells them or make your own and also add lift pump run during WTS.

Okay what is OPS relay mod do and why is it an important mod? What is lift pump run during WTS? Does this only apply to the 95 because I know the 99 has a different block. The 99 had a EGR intake and manifold on it originally the PO swapped it over to non EGR and I am guessing the 95 came from factory with non EGR. I could be mistaken about the 95 non EGR from factory maybe a previous owner changed it.

 

[aLpHaSuRf]

Googled OPS mod reading thread on diesel place now.

 

[NVW]

The 95 would have been non egr from factory.
OPS relay mod uses a relay to remove the load from the OPS. The contacts in the OPS are weak. The LP run during wait to start is the LP runs during the glow cycle, priming the IP.

 

[aLpHaSuRf]

Very interesting thread on it, I just learned a lot from reading it and this will be a mod I do in the next day or so. Forum moderators I am putting a link to a different forum for educational purposes and I hope I am not violating and forum rules by doing so. Very detailed instructions including pictures on how to do the OPS mod and if you read a few posts down even explains why it's important on the pre 95 obd-1 6.5 trucks and NVW has made another point why it's a god mod for other reason not stated on the link.

http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/63...-relay-mod-install-1992-1995-obdi-trucks.html

 

[aLpHaSuRf]

How do I remove the button I have to press for the crappy super glo plugs PO had installed and go back to key to on with the wait light in dash?
The wait light doesn't even go on when i turn the key.

 

[ak diesel driver]

I'd keep the button but fix the wiring so the controller works as intended. You might need a wiring diagram to see what the PO did to it.

 

[WarWagon]

Get a picture of the rear driver's side of the engine. We need to see if the Glow Plug Controller is still there. Pull codes, yes with a paperclip, as there will be some for the glow plugs. Glow Plugs are ECM controlled on 1995 and a "tune" can change the glow times.

You said you want to tow.

Except where noted or where he doesn't Leroy Diesel sells most of this stuff. His website is not always up to date so ask him if he can get it.

Cooling system: Kennedy Diesel low temp fan clutch, 180 T-stat, HO (high output 1998+) Water pump, 9 blade steel 1998 or 2002 Duramax cooling fan, Water wetter. Remove grille and oil cooler - clean behind oil cooler. New or better oil cooler lines.make shure the condenser is in good shape with few bent fins and radiator is clean inside and out. Hoses - check condition.

Further cooling system mods include a better turbo and exhaust. Remove the restrictive snorkel in the fender on the intake if it's there.

Walbro lift pump and remove the in tank sock.

Brakes including updated proportioning valve.

Proper hitch including Weight Distributing as required by the trailer weight and hitch sticker on the 1995.

Good tires and new trailer tires. Spare needs to be new too.

AC - switch over to alternative refrigerant like Envirosafe. (Propane) The R4 compressor needs all the help it can get and it will get R12 cold. Front only AC use the expensive VOV orface tube.

A Team Turbo, tune, and a high stall converter with a good lock up clutch will wake the thing up. The Converter is 1 of 2 weak points in the 4L80E - the other being a compression braking overrun clutch. Hint: don't compression brake with it by downshifting. Do not keep the TCC locked when you lift the throttle in the tune as it can snap the input shaft. Strong trans otherwise.

In detail why that GM turbo needs to go away: (IMO a HX35 is too small for towing. HX40II is 24 PSI of boost and ATT is 15 PSI of boost making the same power on the rollers.)

http://www.maxxtorque.com/2012/07/the-65l-diesel-factory-equipped-asthma.html

http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/threads/let-the-insanity-begin-time-to-yank-it.43647/

If you really want to go crazy pop the engine out for a overhaul with gapless rings and ARP head studs.

Beyond Warwagon insane nuts is a Optimizer or P400 dropped in with ARP's and gapless rings. What was your budget again?

 

[aLpHaSuRf]

Get a picture of the rear driver's side of the engine. We need to see if the Glow Plug Controller is still there. Pull codes, yes with a paperclip, as there will be some for the glow plugs. Glow Plugs are ECM controlled on 1995 and a "tune" can change the glow times.

Okay I will get the best picture of the rear drivers side of engine in the am hours once I awake with my cup of coffee and ciggarette. =) Then I will learn what the glow plug controller even looks like this is all new to me so TY for the help Warwagon! and I love your ride BTW! Keep in mind it's a 1500 not 2500 but I got 8 lugs woo hoo! How in the world do I pull codes with a paperclip?#%? Are you serious?

You said you want to tow.

Proper hitch including Weight Distributing as required by the trailer weight and hitch sticker on the 1995.

Right now I have nothing to tow. But this 1995 6.5td will be my keeper for life and in the future yes I would like to tow, maybe a camper or even a car trailer maybe a wedge double car trailer. The hitch on the truck is a genuine GM hitch and it has a sticker on it I know because I was reading it today something like 10,000 lbs tow weight. I will take a pic of the label in the am with that coffee! lol

Except where noted or where he doesn't Leroy Diesel sells most of this stuff. His website is not always up to date so ask him if he can get it.

Cooling system: Kennedy Diesel low temp fan clutch, 180 T-stat, HO (high output 1998+) Water pump, 9 blade steel 1998 or 2002 Duramax cooling fan, Water wetter. Remove grille and oil cooler - clean behind oil cooler. New or better oil cooler lines.make shure the condenser is in good shape with few bent fins and radiator is clean inside and out. Hoses - check condition.

Okay you had me at hello and you F#cking lost me at water wetter! What in the world is water wetter?? LMAO
Now I would like to do this to her and if I do I would like to upgrade to an aluminum radiator while i'm in there. When I do this I would also like to upgrade as many hoses to steel braided if they are better and applicable.---Cost?

Further cooling system mods include a better turbo and exhaust. Remove the restrictive snorkel in the fender on the intake if it's there.

A Team Turbo, tune, and a high stall converter with a good lock up clutch will wake the thing up. The Converter is 1 of 2 weak points in the 4L80E - the other being a compression braking overrun clutch. Hint: don't compression brake with it by downshifting. Do not keep the TCC locked when you lift the throttle in the tune as it can snap the input shaft. Strong trans otherwise.

I definitely want to upgrade the turbo, How about adding an intercooler? =) exhaust is a definite.

I would like to also do the high stall converter w/a good lock up clutch. ??compression braking overrun clutch?? Downshifiting?? Its an automatic! X_x TCC locked when lifting the throttle in the tune? I need to learn about all this! ---Cost?

Walbro lift pump and remove the in tank sock.

Lift pump as in fuel pump? Is that in the gas tank? Does the sock over the lift pump? Cost?

Brakes including updated proportioning valve.

Okay can I just upgrade the brakes to 2500 brakes or 3/4 ton brakes? I'm not sure. Cost?

Good tires and new trailer tires. Spare needs to be new too.

She has brand new michelin tires on her.

AC - switch over to alternative refrigerant like Envirosafe. (Propane) The R4 compressor needs all the help it can get and it will get R12 cold. Front only AC use the expensive VOV orface tube.

I guess for better a inside the truck huh. I don't even know if the ac works its been too cold out to tell.

In detail why that GM turbo needs to go away: (IMO a HX35 is too small for towing. HX40II is 24 PSI of boost and ATT is 15 PSI of boost making the same power on the rollers.)

http://www.maxxtorque.com/2012/07/the-65l-diesel-factory-equipped-asthma.html

http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/threads/let-the-insanity-begin-time-to-yank-it.43647/

I would opt for the HX40II but can the engine and transmission handle it with out rebuild? Also if ATT is 15 PSI the HX40II is 24 PSI so HX40II would give more boost which in turn = more power if needed... Right? Price differences please?

If you really want to go crazy pop the engine out for a overhaul with gapless rings and ARP head studs.

Wanna take a vacation to myrtle beach? lol I would love to do this to her and even a frame off resto! What we all need to remeber is I am done with mechanics and I am a novice DIY mechanic. If I am capable of doing this in a timely fashion then I would do it but I am not sure I personally would be capable of this!

Beyond Warwagon insane nuts is a Optimizer or P400 dropped in with ARP's and gapless rings. What was your budget again?

Well in all seriousness, I can afford to put a lot of money into her. I just don't know what things cost and I don't know if I want to put that much into her just yet. I need to make a plan as to what I should do first and then work on one thing at a time. WarWagon Gone Gonzo's! Driving Alpha Nutzo's!

 

[ak diesel driver]

Water wetter is an additive yo put in the radiator.
LP is under the drivers seat mounted to the frame, sock is in the tank on the pickup tube.
When he says the ATT makes the samepower with less boost tthat's a good thing. More boost doesn't necessarily mean more oxygen, which is what your after.

 

[aLpHaSuRf]

Water wetter is an additive yo put in the radiator.
LP is under the drivers seat mounted to the frame, sock is in the tank on the pickup tube.
When he says the ATT makes the samepower with less boost tthat's a good thing. More boost doesn't necessarily mean more oxygen, which is what your after.

Thanks for explaining. So I am going to get a book and start making a list of all the mods/upgrades I plan on doing. Then look up all the parts I am going to need and then depending on prices and skill level to get it done I will see which ones I will start with.

 

[Will L.]

The book is a good idea. One of the best investments you can make is time reading old threads here.

Seriously read about every thread in the technical reference library. It will save you thousands over a few years owning a few 6.5s.

Folks here can give you the quick answer, but if you read and learn it, you're more likely to remember it 3 years down the road when things break down.

 

[JayTheCPA]

I definitely want to upgrade the turbo, How about adding an intercooler? =)

My vote is that there are very few that are truly effective, not to mention they add a lot of volume to the airstream prior to the intake manifold. Consider just getting the ATT turbo (which works best without an intercooler) and a tune.

Sure, the Holset is a good turbo and you can swap it over from the Ho, but it is known for making EGT's that get hot enough where you will either need to play with an intercooler or start messing around with WMI (water mist injection) to bring them back down. Another factor to the Holset is that the pressures it can generate will open up the question of whether you will need to upgrade the head studs to ARP. Point is, while a Holset is nice, it does open the door for needing other mods (and a tune) to balance it out.

Okay can I just upgrade the brakes to 2500 brakes or 3/4 ton brakes?

Do not mess with the 3/4 ton rotors, get the 1 ton rotors and calipers. And make sure the rear shoes are 3-1/2" wide.

Also, check whether the proportioning valve was changed per TSB. There is a thread here on TTS about the TSB. And in addition, change the rear wheel cylinders (IIRC it is in the same thread as the TSB for the proportioning valve). After doing the proportioning valve (presuming you have the OE valve) and rear cylinder upgrades, the Burb will stop *much* better.


In terms of cost, get only the expensive ones (No, am not kidding) which are either Raybestos or IIRC have Durastop in the title.


While working on the brakes, consider getting 2" wheel spacers for the rear as this will significantly improve road manners.

 

[NVW]

http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/threads/6-5-diesel-technical-library.589/#post-111592
http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/threads/a-little-help-here.2657/#post-50700
http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/threads/part-locations.9494/
Some reading for you

 

[aLpHaSuRf]

Thanks guys for the links I am going to take my time later tonight when I have time and read up with my notebook open.

Now here are the pictures of the rear driver side engine to see if the original glow plug controller is there.