The coolant flow goes from waterpump through block around cylinders and into the back of the head through that welded up port. Then it flows through the head (to get rid of the majority of the heat generated by the engine through the head) and out the front port to the thermostat cross over.
When you fill a block with concrete blockfill, you can’t drive it normal on the streets. When my friends that ran blockfill at the drag strip would run, it was a race in the pits to cool it before the next run many times. I got away from it because of that. I would argue unless you are building an all out race engine, increase the coolant flow to stop warping not less.
Are you eliminating coolant? Or am I misunderstanding and you are only welding up the front ports of the 2 heads?
I will enlarge the closest steam port,and do a rear crossover hose for the heater. Or drill and tap the rear of the block. Yea , I tried block filler ,and it seemed to bend the rods . It was fine driving normaly,but if I beat it 2 times in a row ,it would through a rod every time.
Yes. And the rod damage- bent rods are from disformed cylinders grabbing the pistons or from valve contact. And unless yoh had huge dents in the piston tops and bent valves- it was from the cylinders shrinking in on the piston from too much heat.
Please, document and share everything as you go. I voice my opposition in opinion (in friendly conversation not trying to be a jerk)- but it is up to you to risk damage or gain advantage in experimentation. I fear you are heading down a path of scrap metal.
The stock pistons got shaved .040, getting custom Cometic gaskets. Using the smallest precups , combined with 311 nozzles @ at least 3000 psi pop pressure. And the little .290 pump,which should easily pump enough of fuel for 400 hp. Also planing on a center mount turbo.
I used nickle wire,it dosent crack, but get porosity sometimes. Also preheated alittle. I probably wont weld another main crack . Took lots of filing to get the cap to fit right.