Acesneights1
New Member
The stupid part is I bought my CUCV from a Municipal auction. NQA.
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Go over to Steel Soldiers. Lots of good info on buying from GL. I would not consider them a competing forum as they are pretty specialized but I am not sure posting a link to them is allowed. It's is very easy to find in Google.
Not much difference at all. I'm liking it!Due to precups only...
Full load 28' trailer was a 3 MPH difference at ~ 65 MPH between a 6.5 and a 6.2 on a good hill. MPG was within 0.5 MPG not a measurable difference. Smokes a little more at WOT. This is 3 bar 6.2 mil spec cups vs. the 6.5 T cups.
Ya know, I kinda like the idea of running the 6.2 heads. Use the late-model diamond precups and the .010" thicker head gasket. That would be a great backup plan! :thumbsup:I used the 6.2 heads as my 6.5 heads were cracked. (It took all my funds to get the engine and it put in so new or used heads were not an option. Lots of 6.2/6.5 people are on a small budget.)
Honestly, once I get it on/together, I'm not messing with it. I'll deal with that issue down the road. If it saves me an additional $700 - $1000 bucks, I'm willing to give it a shot. Neither the budget nor Marty (Loving Wife) are happy with an engine replacment right now. I need to do a good job that'll last, and if I can save some $$$, that would really help. :agreed: :agreed:The heat shield is tight between the manifold and the injector lines with 6.2 heads. You would have to loosen the manifold to remove the shield or change injectors.
I have a NIB timing chain/gear setup for the electronic motor. Also have the timing cover with the mount for the crank sensor, and NIB harmonic balancer and lower pulley. Pretty much good to go.Your DS4 setup would require additional items for the crank sensor that I do not have the experience with yet.
Thanks for the link and the warning! :thumbsup:watch the oil pan as well. Robyn has a write up going over in the 6.2 section on Oil pan issues. I was unaware of this until she posted it.