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Milspec Motors

Because GL makes such a big deal with BS paperwork about buying it and being a citizen and not export Bs BS BS and here I bought the truck from a Govt Municpality NQA.
 
State vs. fed. govt. is different. State municipality doesn't come with the same stuff as the feds.

There may be no diff. in vehicles, but with all the stuff gl lists maybe they are trying to keep it out of the hands of felons and terrorists.
 
Go over to Steel Soldiers. Lots of good info on buying from GL. I would not consider them a competing forum as they are pretty specialized but I am not sure posting a link to them is allowed. It's is very easy to find in Google.

Thanks for the reminder! :thumbsup: I spent a chunk of yesterday afternoon/evening reading the GL FAQ's section. Came away with two thoughts: communicate, communicate, communicate and call the base contact to be sure that load-out help is available. There's no way on this earth I'm gonna be able to shift a container weighing over half a ton. Much less lift it off the ground and into the back of my dually. If a forklift is available, it's all do-able. No forklift/help, I'm not even in the running. :nonod:
 
Due to precups only...
Full load 28' trailer was a 3 MPH difference at ~ 65 MPH between a 6.5 and a 6.2 on a good hill. MPG was within 0.5 MPG not a measurable difference. Smokes a little more at WOT. This is 3 bar 6.2 mil spec cups vs. the 6.5 T cups.
Not much difference at all. I'm liking it! :D :D

I used the 6.2 heads as my 6.5 heads were cracked. (It took all my funds to get the engine and it put in so new or used heads were not an option. Lots of 6.2/6.5 people are on a small budget.)
Ya know, I kinda like the idea of running the 6.2 heads. Use the late-model diamond precups and the .010" thicker head gasket. That would be a great backup plan! :thumbsup:

The heat shield is tight between the manifold and the injector lines with 6.2 heads. You would have to loosen the manifold to remove the shield or change injectors.
Honestly, once I get it on/together, I'm not messing with it. I'll deal with that issue down the road. If it saves me an additional $700 - $1000 bucks, I'm willing to give it a shot. Neither the budget nor Marty (Loving Wife) are happy with an engine replacment right now. I need to do a good job that'll last, and if I can save some $$$, that would really help. :agreed: :agreed:

Your DS4 setup would require additional items for the crank sensor that I do not have the experience with yet.
I have a NIB timing chain/gear setup for the electronic motor. Also have the timing cover with the mount for the crank sensor, and NIB harmonic balancer and lower pulley. Pretty much good to go.
 
watch the oil pan as well. Robyn has a write up going over in the 6.2 section on Oil pan issues. I was unaware of this until she posted it.
 
watch the oil pan as well. Robyn has a write up going over in the 6.2 section on Oil pan issues. I was unaware of this until she posted it.
Thanks for the link and the warning! :thumbsup:

Since I'd be buying an entire engine, the oil pan would come with it. Now all I gotta do is figure out the following:
  • Will the military pan configuration fit in my 2wd truck
  • Will I need to buy a civvy pan and oil pump/pickup
  • Are there different pans used, depending on vehicle application
I'm hoping that the pans are close enuff alike to allow me to simply drop it in.

Oh well, more digging... :rolleyes5:
 
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