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Meet my truck

And also the size of the turbo inlet doesn't mean larger compressor wheel really. It comes down to measuring inducer and exducer and everything else. So don't be fooled just yet. I think it just seems larger from the map width enhancement groove. Am I correct or do I have bad information on what that groove is around the turbo inlet? Always willing to learn
 
6.5L said:
And also the size of the turbo inlet doesn't mean larger compressor wheel really. It comes down to measuring inducer and exducer and everything else. So don't be fooled just yet. I think it just seems larger from the map width enhancement groove. Am I correct or do I have bad information on what that groove is around the turbo inlet? Always willing to learn
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The groove kinda thing around the compressor I believe is for anti surge, so instead of turbo fart it lets air have a way around it with out damaging it, so I'd say in higher boost when you let off the fuel hard rpm drops fast, turbos still trying to make alot of air and boost but the motors not taking it and there is not the exhaust to drive the compressor, air tries to escape out your compressor wheel which can be damaging normally, but with the anti surge it lets the air go by safely, So I'd personally believe that is why my truck makes the noise it does is that air escaping by. I know when I let off the gas downtown it can be a real head turner Lol

garrett_anti%20surge.jpg
 
My Holset WH1C doesn't make that noise when you let off the accelerator. Im pretty sure it has the groove parts around the compressor wheel.
 
Thank you for posting that video. The turbo scream when it unloads is horrible. I'll keep my quiet ATT whistle.

So not knowing the history, I'm guessing the whole schism between Diesel Place and TTS is due to the HX40ii vs ATT?
 
Couldn't tell yeah, I know on diesel place its still the ATT vs hx40 really ha ha I mean you got some guys trying to figure out how to put bigger turbos on. But a lot choose that ATT just for the fact its a guaranteed bolt on with no messing about, all parts are there that are needed to do it.

Also I took the "silencer" ring out of my turbo, So I'm sure if I had left it in the turbo would be quieter with out that off the throttle sound.
 
Octane said:
Couldn't tell yeah, I know on diesel place its still the ATT vs hx40 really ha ha I mean you got some guys trying to figure out how to put bigger turbos on. But a lot choose that ATT just for the fact its a guaranteed bolt on with no messing about, all parts are there that are needed to do it.

Also I took the "silencer" ring out of my turbo, So I'm sure if I had left it in the turbo would be quieter with out that off the throttle sound.
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I have more than enough whistle out of my ATT. The whole engine is much louder than a 6.5 with a GM turbo. Seriously, that decel howl would drive me crazy.

I've seen HX40ii installs on 6.5s. Compared to an ATT, they're Mcgyver rigged.

We've now seen side-by-side dyno tests of the HX40ii and ATT on the same engine and they basically produce the same results, but the ATT does it at nearly 50% less drive pressure. So the decision is a no Brainer.

I'm watching the QSV development with interest. No question it has merit, but we've now seen a major issue rear its head with the fail close on no boost design of the originals. That could spell early death through overheat on a 6.5, defeating all the improvements in cooling that have been made here-to-date. A vacuum operated fail open QSV could be the holy grail for this device on the 6.5. The gear heads here will figure out a way, I have no doubt on that.
 
Big T said:
Thank you for posting that video. The turbo scream when it unloads is horrible. I'll keep my quiet ATT whistle.

So not knowing the history, I'm guessing the whole schism between Diesel Place and TTS is due to the HX40ii vs ATT?
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most of it was just the ATT as the HX4011 wasn't even around then.
 
I love the sound of the HX40, but I think the ATT is a bit more practical, both because it is a direct bolt up and because it does the same work at half the drive pressure. I cant afford a QSV, so I will just have to deal with the lag.

Why dont the DP guys like the ATT?
 
I don't see the quick spool valve as is honestly being that much of an issue. Yeah, it's closed when cruising, which does create boost, but at least running the bigger housing most of the time I am running 0-1.5psi of boost down the highway. And thats turning 2500rpm. It will not create an overheating issue. I firmly believe the overheating issue is because of it 117* down where WarWagon is. Take anything down there and it will suffer. I never had an issue even running the small housing middle of summer with anything close to overheating. The only difference is the ambient temperature between here and there.
 
I would agree, but I would be after maximum MPGs myself so it would be great if it was fully open at cruise speeds. If it can't be figued out I'll just run the ATT w/o a QSV.
Maybe my consearn is pointless. Did you notice any MPG difference before vs after QSV install.
 
6.5L said:
I don't see the quick spool valve as is honestly being that much of an issue. Yeah, it's closed when cruising, which does create boost, but at least running the bigger housing most of the time I am running 0-1.5psi of boost down the highway. And thats turning 2500rpm. It will not create an overheating issue. I firmly believe the overheating issue is because of it 117* down where WarWagon is. Take anything down there and it will suffer. I never had an issue even running the small housing middle of summer with anything close to overheating. The only difference is the ambient temperature between here and there.
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I've towed in 100+ heat up grades with my '99 and ATT. Only in the steepest portion did it reach 210. IMO 210 at idle even in 119 F ambient is not good. There's no load on the engine to create heat. Something is wrong with the engine or it's the QSV. I'm inclined to think it's the engine, but could not rule out QSV for the obvious reason.
 
I just dont see why the quick spool valve would create an overheating issue. At idle I dont think there is nowhere near enough exhaust gas that even having the valve closed, it couldn't handle the flow at idle through the one volute
 
Now the valve is completely self contained? No way to control the opening and closing?
 
That looks like the same basic thing i've used on many turbo applications to control boost. It bleeds off the air that "would" go to the actuator to keep it closed longer,. Since alot of turbo actuators work on boost pressure against a spring to open/close a wastegate... You can reduce the pressure reaching that actuator so it requires higher boost before dumping the exhaust
 
6.5L said:
so opposite of what we want
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If your aim is to decrease boost per say. you would want to make that thing open up sooner by having a lighter spring or I'm sure its a threaded rod which you'd spin or what ever to let off the tension on the spring in the canister.

Like one turbo I had the stock actuator on it would only do about 6 psi with it tightened down a lot. Stick one of those boost controllers that bleed off the air I could turn it up to 15 # if I wanted. Nice thing however with those controllers is the ability to control the boost when ever. turn it down so "full boost" reaches the actuator for lower boost. Then if you want more boost you can turn it up to bleed air off that "would" go to the actuator and gain more boost. So you could have it in your cab and just turn it up or down
 
That would be convenient. And It is threaded on the actuating rod. I have looked at it before. Seems simple enough but what I am thinking is, if you back off spring tension, then the rod becomes further away as a whole, and that requires more movement to open the valve fully, which would make it take longer to open. example like, if right now it takes 18psi to start opening and is fully open by 20psi, would decreasing the spring tension mean it would start to open at 14 and fully open by 20psi? See what I am saying. Kind of hard to explain. Am I right in thinking this? Or is my theory completely flawed? haha if it is, I'm blaming margaritas haha
 
6.5L said:
That would be convenient. And It is threaded on the actuating rod. I have looked at it before. Seems simple enough but what I am thinking is, if you back off spring tension, then the rod becomes further away as a whole, and that requires more movement to open the valve fully, which would make it take longer to open. example like, if right now it takes 18psi to start opening and is fully open by 20psi, would decreasing the spring tension mean it would start to open at 14 and fully open by 20psi? See what I am saying. Kind of hard to explain. Am I right in thinking this? Or is my theory completely flawed? haha if it is, I'm blaming margaritas haha
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I know what you are saying there. loosening the rod up *should* increase its travel. Basically as you tighten it down its pulling the rod in further to create more "base" spring tension and by that i mean how much tension its at will take a certain amount of boost to make it start to move. SO If you were to take that rod and take it off. It will move back a bit towards the inside of the can. so the rod inside there is now all the way to the back of it because there is a spring pushing it back. At that setting it might only take, say 10 pounds of boost to move it. Where as if it was pulled out and held half way in its travel. It may take 15 or 20 pounds of boost to move it.

So hopefully I'm making some sense.... by reducing the rods tension through unscrewing it some, your actually lengthening its total travel. Like if you were to mark it. then take compressed air to the top of it and see how far it pushes out. Then unscrew it a bunch. Mark it again and apply compressed air. You'd see it travels further.

So I'm not sure if that flap in there has any stoppers but if you loosen it, it "may" push it a bit further than straight in there possibly. But I'd imagine it has something to prevent it from doing that because that would be counter productive and cold certainly happen the higher the boost goes.
 
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