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Me

Clydesdale4x4

I rock the Clydesdale!
Messages
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Location
Nampa ID
Hey, was researching the New Holland/Brazillian/Ford I-6 Dismal powerplants, and I stumbled across here. Was suggested I post up an intro, so here I am.

My rig: 1990 C350 Centurion Bronco.
Dana 60 front (superduty)
Dana 70 rear (some 80's Ford)
NP435 (81 F100)
BW1356 t-case (what it was born with)
6.9 IDI (laugh, I got paid to install it in my truck..)

Final Goal:

A daily driven rig on 40's, that gets 18 mpg ~, can wheel moderately hard, and isn't scared of a load.:cool:

I facetiously call it a "Clydesdale" (it's based on a Bronco, but was born on 'tons, and 4 doors... ), but in reality... I should call it a damned Unicorn, as what I am aspiring for "doesn't exist". Ask my friends.:mad2:

ANyway, enough with me...

Mah Twuk...

Day we adopted him, 9 mpg 460/E40D btw:
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On the way home: (we live in Nampa, ID, drove to Denton County, TX to acquire)
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37's + SuperDuty Leveling springs...
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(Dana 60 in the rear under the soft top here.. as well as the CC Maxipad 4x4 on the hook.. notice the lack of squat...?)
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Getting the S-duty 60.
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(born with a HP60, when i got it, had a HP44, traded into a '79 HP60, wanted 3.73's, not 4:10's.. traded into a S-duty HP60)

(I hated the mis matched lug patterns, and yet again, not 4x4... 3.73/4.10, when I bought him, 3.54/4.10)
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Unsure what the cut-off # is for hyper linking, so will post and then add more.
 
I can't seem to find any of getting the IDI, so will throw up some of its next motor, and then how it sits now.

Just had finished the IDI swap, hood scoop is just sitting there, still not installed, but on my list... Rear 'Hawgs had 2 lug nuts each, when I say barely finished, I mean that, still no charging system, e-fan not wired, etc. etc. etc.

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I love this shot... wife was born in Pittsburg, so on our vacation last year, I picked up some plate frames...

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I am 6'... he's a beasty... :D

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Daughter was in band, they needed the trailer towed, what the hell, I gots me a one ton, right?

Band instructor (little left wing hybrid driving type, was just as impressed with the truck, as my kids are... I think he could have been persuaded to trade in his fusion hybrid... :D )

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Then some yay hoo nominated me for the running for F.O.T.M. on FullSizeBronco.com. The ony way to win that is to wheel, open/open.. barely running, actually wasn't when I got nominated....

Urban (my yard) wheeling it was....

Local play area (one of em) is across from the dump, so I multi tasked, dump run, and a little wheeling...

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This led to ditching the 17" wide Hawgs....

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Again, I am 6'...

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Standing where those last two were taken...

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I was pretty impressed for open/open..

I didn't air down, either, all done at 40 psi.

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ALl I have done for lift is some 4" springs in the front, and a shackle flip in the rear, actually going to ditch the 4" factory one ton blocks, for some 2" blocks that will re-center my axle.

Flexed...

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I have some better ones on my tree in the yard, but... toggling between Firefox and Chrome is starting to suck...

Essentially,Final destination is: Spicer 5 speed, divorced 205 with 3:1 kit, Ford 6.6, and done.

Currently sitting on Incubus Recoils, and 37" Grapplers, they are giving way to 12.5R20 Michelin XLs.. and then the prerequisite hydro assist steering..

Incubus's...

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Looking at 12v Hydraulic pumps to run a 3" bore 30"-36" stroke ram.

Aaargh! so many options, DeLavan is the brand of ram the local farm and ranch supply store sells, so keeping my attention there for simplicity, they offer a 2500 and 3000 psi ram in the specs I need.

is this what I want?

http://stores.daltonhydraulic.com/-strse-735/DC-power-unit,-hydraulic/Detail.bok

What does "no valving" translate to? yes, I am clueless.

ALso, 2 motors, one for left and one for right sides of the truck, or is there a solenoid operated switching valve that will do what I want? Kick the fluid power one side or the other with a hammering on a rocker switch, power lock button is what I aspire to use.

ALso, what do I need to do to keep the ram from bleeding off? Retracted is the position it needs to stay in, and will have 400# of metal tugging on it, in its dormant position.
 
That is just the pump, you will need a valve control. It puts the flow where you want it.

These electric control valves are from the link you posted: http://stores.daltonhydraulic.com/-...PM-Directional-Valves--dsh--DC/Categories.bok

And you will need one of these subplates to hold 2 of the control valves: http://stores.daltonhydraulic.com/-...Subplates--dsh--D03,-D05-&-D08/Categories.bok also from that same site.

This would allow you to use only one pump. Smallest series of valves would be more than adequate for that pump.
 
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I found a used double action pump, valved and with reservoir, for$175. Told the guy what I was doing with it, and he was convinced it would do. Think it originated from a Plow truck. At that point I need the valve you mentioned, to switch from ram a to ramb, and then explain to me the subplate. Thanks, the guidance is much appreciated
 
What you most likely have with that pump is a "single spool" directional control valve. That means it will control flow in two directions on one circuit(spool). Is it a mech. or electric hyd. valve? If it is mech. it might not be what you want although it will work.

The valves I showed, you would need two of them, one for each side. The subplate is what the valves mount to, the oil flows into the subplate and the valves direct the flow through different ports.
 
Glad to see you made it over:) Defiantly a good looking rig you have there! Now lets go wheeling sometime when your in PA again.
 
I really like those Centurion's.

How many did they make?

Can you stack sheets of plywood or drywall in the back?

I'd like to put my International engine and trans into something like that.
 
Thanks

4300 approximately, no one knows for sure. Mine has a production # of 1393.

Yes.

DT360? Hubba Hubba.
 
So I have had this thing running as an IDI since Oct. Haven't ever gone more than 50 miles in it at a sitting. Hell, I have never had more than 10-11 gallons of dismal in the tank.

Little brother in law moved back to Nampa from Cambridge, and needed two dead rides hauled. he farmed out the RX-7, and then had a need for the Pathfinder.

Why not? Father in laws IDI consumes oil at a rate of 12 mpq (miles per quart), so Clyde won the Nomination.

Alignment is screwed, front Nitto's are bald as hell.... borrowed a trailer, and gave it all we had.

220 miles later... I have learned:


Oh, I think I averaged 13. with plenty of idle time, 4 low spinning wheel time, etc. etc. etc. betcha that number would have been 15 (ad maybe it is now, started with 1/4 tank, put 20 gallons in, it flirted with "F", and is on the high side of 3/8 now) w/o all the 4 low bs, and excessive idle time. Half ass glanced at the odo on the iPhone, after fueling, and it read 113, now reads 338.

A: I passionately hate BW1356 t-cases, lost the one in Hidalgo miles away from home, loaded, kids blah blah blah; lost the one in Clyde, 100 miles from home, loaded borried trailer, blah blah...

B: My ulitmate gearing theorems will work with more hp/tq. I think a turbo on the ol 6.9 and it wuld do the job I want done, but still going to the I-6 Brazillian. IF I could hit 65 (2k rpm or so) I could hold 65, loaded.. if I hit the hill below 60, I didn't have a snowballs chance in hell

C: DO NOT RUN THE TIMING ADVANCE (electrical connector) 24/7 as a timing adavance for more power. Bad idear. Specially with no e-fan, and cardboard in front of the raditor.... 6.9's don't like 250 degree's... seems to run fine though after the fact though....

D: t-cases suck to change in 20 degree weather at night with 10-30 mph winds, don't recommend trying it

E: I do an alright job with motor swapping, axle swapping, blah blah blah. He handled his first work trip with aplomb, minus the driver induced overheating incident, and the t-case lunching it.
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