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maxxTORQUE article on the A Team Turbo

VEGTECH---I am running a BD Quick Spool Valve on mine. There is a thread about it somewhere. I was going to make my own but honestly the BD product is almost impossible to beat. Works flawlessly. Maybe an idea. Was fairly simple to fab in with the ATT.
 
Looking for the BIG ATT thread and a couple other ATT longevity threads. Anyone have those links?

Search brings up alot of ATT talk but not what I'm looking for.
 
Thanks! I was trying to collect some "light" reading for a guy that might be interested in a turbo. Getting all of the info in one place helps.
 
Ok, reading thru this, EGT's came up and this has me puzzled, lol, you guys say 1100-1200 isn't really a safe limit that you can run higher? More info please.
 
Ok, reading thru this, EGT's came up and this has me puzzled, lol, you guys say 1100-1200 isn't really a safe limit that you can run higher? More info please.

EGT's are nothing to worry about by themselves. Combined with timing, smoke etc maybe. After you run 1550 EGT's sustained towing a hard hill one realizes that bulls#it 1200 degree EGT limits were invented by looking at the melting point of pure aluminum. Aluminum alloy in the pistons has a different melting point than pure aluminum. The EGT is largely irrelevant to pistons esp when combustion temps reach 4000 degrees. Boundry layers, carbon coating, ceramic coating, time exposed to the temps (RPM), oil temp, ECT, all play a factor into how hot the piston really gets. Further you can advance the timing or loose an injector and melt the pistons down below 1000 EGT.

You can scuff a piston from overheating the oil or run out of clearance due to temperatures. I scuffed and cracked a piston due to a radiator cap blowing off and shock cooling the block.

EGT is a measurement of how hard the engine is working, efficiency, and possible emissions reasons. It also can indicate when you are melting down the exaust wheel on the turbo.

Timing and ECT as well as oil temp have more to do with scuffing or melting a piston.

Show me one post that we melted an engine down at 1200 degrees EGT and the rebuilt engine melted down at the same EGT...

Seriously you should have seen the look on Buddy's face when I called out the 1550 EGT number and wasn't taking my foot off the throttle. The only thing I was worried about was running off the EGT gauge that only went to 1600... I regularly run 1350 with altitude changes. However I get lower EGT's with the ATT vs. the GM3. But I can add more fuel and spike em with any turbo I have tried.

Header wrap and paint have ratings from 1500 to 2000 degrees. The ATT turbo blanket starts to give up (scorch) around 1500 EGT...

In summery the EGT limit bulls#it floating around out there has done nothing but cause me unneeded worry. Mainly because I have run way over the imagined numbers for extended periods of time and given the engine every chance to melt down. The results have been funny colored paint above the exaust on the floor pan, scorched turbo blanket and that is it. I have torn down the engine and inspected the turbo - you would have no idea the EGT's I have run from looking at any of it.
 
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Ok, reading thru this, EGT's came up and this has me puzzled, lol, you guys say 1100-1200 isn't really a safe limit that you can run higher? More info please.

Depends on whether you measure pre- or post- turbo. Pre turbo is about 1250*, post turbo is about 950*

You can get different gauges for the location ...
 
EGT's are nothing to worry about by themselves. Combined with timing, smoke etc maybe. After you run 1550 EGT's sustained towing a hard hill one realizes that bulls#it 1200 degree EGT limits were invented by looking at the melting point of pure aluminum. Aluminum alloy in the pistons has a different melting point than pure aluminum. The EGT is largely irrelevant to pistons esp when combustion temps reach 4000 degrees. Boundry layers, carbon coating, ceramic coating, time exposed to the temps (RPM), oil temp, ECT, all play a factor into how hot the piston really gets. Further you can advance the timing or loose an injector and melt the pistons down below 1000 EGT.

You can scuff a piston from overheating the oil or run out of clearance due to temperatures. I scuffed and cracked a piston due to a radiator cap blowing off and shock cooling the block.

EGT is a measurement of how hard the engine is working, efficiency, and possible emissions reasons. It also can indicate when you are melting down the exaust wheel on the turbo.

Timing and ECT as well as oil temp have more to do with scuffing or melting a piston.

Show me one post that we melted an engine down at 1200 degrees EGT and the rebuilt engine melted down at the same EGT...

Seriously you should have seen the look on Buddy's face when I called out the 1550 EGT number and wasn't taking my foot off the throttle. The only thing I was worried about was running off the EGT gauge that only went to 1600... I regularly run 1350 with altitude changes. However I get lower EGT's with the ATT vs. the GM3. But I can add more fuel and spike em with any turbo I have tried.

Header wrap and paint have ratings from 1500 to 2000 degrees. The ATT turbo blanket starts to give up (scorch) around 1500 EGT...

In summery the EGT limit bulls#it floating around out there has done nothing but cause me unneeded worry. Mainly because I have run way over the imagined numbers for extended periods of time and given the engine every chance to melt down. The results have been funny colored paint above the exaust on the floor pan, scorched turbo blanket and that is it. I have torn down the engine and inspected the turbo - you would have no idea the EGT's I have run from looking at any of it.

Good as I agree, we can run 1600 deg F on our gas engines with forged pistons before they melt, around 14-1500 with cast and we all know gas engines run hotter. Great info, thanks.

View attachment 37485View attachment 37486

Depends on whether you measure pre- or post- turbo. Pre turbo is about 1250*, post turbo is about 950*

You can get different gauges for the location ...

I'll find out what mine are, put my probe in the drivers collector.
 
I have run mine at 1300 for extended periods without any ill effects, and as high as 1500 for a few minutes, no problems so far. :)

As far as longevity, have 60000 on mine without any issues. There are others out there with much more one over 100,0000. So not an issue with longevity.
 
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I have run mine at 1300 for extended periods without any ill effects, and as high as 1500 for a few minutes, no problems so far. :)

As far as longevity, have 60000 on mine without any issues. There are others out there with much more one over 100,0000. So not an issue with longevity.
X2, I have seen 1400 on my gauge. It was then that I backed off the fuel. That was 2 years ago and haven't had any problems. I also run w/m so can keep my foot on the fuel for a lot longer duration.
 
X2, I have seen 1400 on my gauge. It was then that I backed off the fuel. That was 2 years ago and haven't had any problems. I also run w/m so can keep my foot on the fuel for a lot longer duration.

Are you still happy with the water injection?
 
I had a max of 800 at 10 psi, gave it another 1/8 turn, was uber hard to get 1050 and 15 psi, got that going up the steepest hill on the Coquihalla this weekend but the top end pull is not very good so I am going to add more fuel. Average is still 800 and 10psi. Thanks for the info.
 
I had a max of 800 at 10 psi, gave it another 1/8 turn, was uber hard to get 1050 and 15 psi, got that going up the steepest hill on the Coquihalla this weekend but the top end pull is not very good so I am going to add more fuel. Average is still 800 and 10psi. Thanks for the info.
I know that hill very well, will be going up it in a couple weeks. You must have been unloaded. What was your speed at the top. I'll be lucky if I can keep it at 40 mph. But I will be loaded up with all the toys and trailer
 
I know that hill very well, will be going up it in a couple weeks. You must have been unloaded. What was your speed at the top. I'll be lucky if I can keep it at 40 mph. But I will be loaded up with all the toys and trailer

Coming out of Hope, averaged 100-110 km/h and pretty well the other hills too except the one mentioned above, dropped down to 90 km/h and didn't get higher or lower, kinda stayed steady but it won't do it at full throttle, maybe 3/4. Not towing but she's heavy, weighed her outside of Hope coming home, full tank of fuel, 6000 lbs and fought a head wind all the way home. Got 16.6 mpg for the whole trip vs 11/12 mpg last time I did it N/A and it was so much more relaxing. I might have been closer to 17 mpg as I filled up in Merrit and barely used any for the rest of the trip.

I've done some thinking and this pump never went as well as my 4544 pump that messed up, this pump always seemed flat so I think the advance is messed up. BD said they can test my 4544 for $100 so I'll fix it and get them to test it and put it back on if its ok.
 
I know that hill very well, will be going up it in a couple weeks. You must have been unloaded. What was your speed at the top. I'll be lucky if I can keep it at 40 mph. But I will be loaded up with all the toys and trailer

Coming out of Hope, averaged 100-110 km/h and pretty well the other hills too except the one mentioned above, dropped down to 90 km/h and didn't get higher or lower, kinda stayed steady but it won't do it at full throttle, maybe 3/4. Not towing but she's heavy, weighed her outside of Hope coming home, full tank of fuel, 6000 lbs and fought a head wind all the way home. Got 16.6 mpg for the whole trip vs 11/12 mpg last time I did it N/A and it was so much more relaxing. I might have been closer to 17 mpg as I filled up in Merrit and barely used any for the rest of the trip.

I've done some thinking and this pump never went as well as my 4544 pump that messed up, this pump always seemed flat so I think the advance is messed up. BD said they can test my 4544 for $100 so I'll fix it and get them to test it and put it back on if its ok.
 
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