• Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.

    Your truck knowledge is missing!
    • Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
    • We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
    • Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
    • NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
    CLICK HERE TO REGISTER!

    Problems registering? Click here to contact us!

    Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!

Max boost for att

Im building a diverter valve/QSV Target price is $399. Will be available by spring.

If your going to all the expence of SAS and custom turbo.......ect to build a truck whats another $399-$700 (depending on where you buy it) for a QSV.
 
Will it require swapping to a 93 style radiator? That's the main reason I haven't already put a spool valve on it. That would put the cost for the whole setup including cost of turbo over $1500 and for that I could do a lot compared to ~$600 to swap a cko hx40. But if not I would definitely be interested in a $400 qsv
 
Buy one thing at a time. IMO over 200K miles an radiators are just ticking time bombs anyways, either the sides crack or the inside is clogged might not be a bad idea to replace it if you are building a mudder. You can always try to run w/o qsv w/ lift and 4.56, 4.88, or 5.13 gears. I don't think you will have an issue, just gear for the expected powerband.
 
Will it require swapping to a 93 style radiator? That's the main reason I haven't already put a spool valve on it. That would put the cost for the whole setup including cost of turbo over $1500 and for that I could do a lot compared to ~$600 to swap a cko hx40. But if not I would definitely be interested in a $400 qsv

Not sure why a new radiator would be needed, but no you won't with my QSV.

Edit: I think I just snaped to what you were meaning. The BD QSV in the way of recovery tank making a 93 radiator the way to go right??
You won't have that problem with mine.
 
Been gone a few days so I am catching up...

I saw 24-25psi out of the ATT on Gertie about a minute before it shut off. Surprised me as I was expecting 15-20psi max. But the boost kept building. That was the third run at around 3000rpm at 90 or so in 3rd gear. My 6.5 could not take it. Blew 3 lifters apart and spun the mains. I think they were issues at play but the high boost and pressure was surely the nail in the coffin. Still trying to sort out running issues with the new 6.2 repower.,
 
I ran mine with the maxE Heath tune and only got 10 psi max then have Heath reflash for ATT and still only 13-15 max.
 
Been gone a few days so I am catching up...

I saw 24-25psi out of the ATT on Gertie about a minute before it shut off. Surprised me as I was expecting 15-20psi max. But the boost kept building. That was the third run at around 3000rpm at 90 or so in 3rd gear. My 6.5 could not take it. Blew 3 lifters apart and spun the mains. I think they were issues at play but the high boost and pressure was surely the nail in the coffin. Still trying to sort out running issues with the new 6.2 repower.,

That's probably what'll end up happening to mine eventually. That's exactly what mine did minus the damage lol.

I ran mine with the maxE Heath tune and only got 10 psi max then have Heath reflash for ATT and still only 13-15 max.

Can't explain that brother. Maybe did you tell him you tow a little so he didn't make it as "hot" as mine? He asked me if I towed and I told him no, even though I may pull a little trailer. Nothing over 2000# though. I've never saw less than 18psi. Now I run at 20psi consistently after fixing a leaking boot and re-torquing my exhaust manifold bolts. It creeps up to 25psi on long wot pulls.
 
I like those numbers. I told him I tow a small boat or a sled trailer but that's about it.
I also get high egts if I boot it. Highway I am running 600-700 but if I flat foot it, it will easily and quickly hit 1100. I need to recheck my timing. My Tech 1 died the last time I put a pump in it so maybe that's why. I also read somewhere that there were ATTs sent out with the wrong exhaust side housing and it caused high egts

Sent from my ADR6350 using Tapatalk 2
 
The 1000° egt's is most likely because of ~20° ambient temps. There could have been a lot of factors at play, humidity even maybe. I really need to invest in gmtdscan so I can see what my iat's look like and such and set the tdco and all. I wish I had more information to give.
Do you guys think if I called up Heath and told him I wanted an att tune for 20psi he could do it? I don't want 12-15 lol it really goes after 15. I just have way too much fuel down low, it's smokey especially from a stop, this doesn't bother me but it prolly ain't too good to be runnin it "backwards" like that.
 
Bill reflashed my max e torque to an att tune for $100. It had lots of smoke on low end. I called him and he reflashed it again and took some fuel out of the bottom end.

Sent from my ADR6350 using Tapatalk 2
 
Back
Top