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MARVEL MYSTERY OIL anyone run it in their truck?

NO, owner says his truck is fine and never had less than 40 psi oil pressure and that he has good volume as well. None of it addes up.
 
Cumminsfever said:
Is there any chance of an oil line collapsing after the engine gets hot?
Click to expand...

Yes the oil line is suspect and I asked about that, answer was that the turbo had good oil pressure and volume. You looked at it, so I can only go by what I was told. I informed him that I wouldn't warranty another oil failure, the previous turbo failed as well from what I understand.

Pattern of failure, problem other than the turbo I think.
 
Marvel Mystery oil has a forum on their website for questions and I read of a Ford 6.0 owner thinks MMO took out his turbo???? ~ He tried MMO in truck and it started smoking from oil at turbo truck was fine before. But this is another forum and I don't know if its a legitimate thread/post.

I think its an ok product for cleaning, polishing, and as a penetrant but not for adding to engine oil in a good vehicle. I have used it to unstick rings in a motor that sat up.

Film strenght is misleading as it does not indicate how strong the boundary layer lubrication affect is only that it maintains a "film". My understanding is the turbo shears the oil and foams it up due to rpm's. This produces a lubricating layer of foamy oil. MMO might cause a problem in the oils ability to foam????
 
I personally lean towards the oil line collapsing after it gets hot. I have run mmo in my Cummins with the same center section that the att runs and i spun that turbo well over 100,000 rpm. Never seen mmo hurt a turbo but i maybe it was a bad batch?
 
My opinion is that the MMO is waaaay too thin to run in a turbo application. I suspect a film breakdown which ate the turbo bearings.

It was reported years ago on an old air-cooled VW forum that MMO was basically kerosene (lamp oil) and could be used as a substitute. Even then when added to motor oil it was only to clean a motors gunk and then drain and refill with proper grade oil.

Most people I see using MMO is for a gas treatment. = snake oil (granted ATF works well for gas treatment for cleaning CIS fuel injectors systems)

Remember MMO is used to clean motors... Which means it probably cleaned the lubrication off the turbo bearings thus killing it.

The stuff is almost like water. I don't think anybody should use it period in motor oil, much less in a turbo application.

IMO I do not and will not add anything to motor oil. If a motor is that beat/dirty/abused, it should be rebuilt.
 
Pillow said:
My opinion is that the MMO is waaaay too thin to run in a turbo application. I suspect a film breakdown which ate the turbo bearings.

It was reported years ago on an old air-cooled VW forum that MMO was basically kerosene (lamp oil) and could be used as a substitute. Even then when added to motor oil it was only to clean a motors gunk and then drain and refill with proper grade oil.

Most people I see using MMO is for a gas treatment. = snake oil (granted ATF works well for gas treatment for cleaning CIS fuel injectors systems)

Remember MMO is used to clean motors... Which means it probably cleaned the lubrication off the turbo bearings thus killing it.

The stuff is almost like water. I don't think anybody should use it period in motor oil, much less in a turbo application.

IMO I do not and will not add anything to motor oil. If a motor is that beat/dirty/abused, it should be rebuilt.
Click to expand...

x2 on this.

A lot of people give MMO more credit, personally, it is just a snake oil.

It should not be used as a replacement. It is an additive. So replacing 1 qt of oil with MMO is foolish, IMO.
It will thin out the oil considerably.
 
Slim Shady said:
Yes the oil line is suspect and I asked about that, answer was that the turbo had good oil pressure and volume. You looked at it, so I can only go by what I was told. I informed him that I wouldn't warranty another oil failure, the previous turbo failed as well from what I understand.

Pattern of failure, problem other than the turbo I think.
Click to expand...

At least get him to quit running MM in the oil. Something is eating the bearings.

Per above ask for a picture of the oil line. It may have twisted the metal line at the turbo - thus a restriction. A hydraulic hose shop can replace the line. In fact he can put the turbo line in the oil fill and have a friend crank the engine to verify oil flow.

Have him remove and cut open the oil filter. He is looking for debris in the filter including filter failure. Also did he change the oil after the last turbo failure?

For grins you can call MM and ask them about turbo apps. Just for grins.

Not that you are denying warranty - you are helping him fix the problem. Good customer service there.

:nopics:
 
WarWagon said:
At least get him to quit running MM in the oil. Something is eating the bearings.

Per above ask for a picture of the oil line. It may have twisted the metal line at the turbo - thus a restriction. A hydraulic hose shop can replace the line. In fact he can put the turbo line in the oil fill and have a friend crank the engine to verify oil flow.

Have him remove and cut open the oil filter. He is looking for debris in the filter including filter failure. Also did he change the oil after the last turbo failure?

For grins you can call MM and ask them about turbo apps. Just for grins.

Not that you are denying warranty - you are helping him fix the problem. Good customer service there.

:nopics:
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The oil line is not kinked or smashed in any place.(I specifically checked that) And, we did a test to see if it was open... held the line in a bucket. Plenty of oil. If we had held it out in mid air, it woulda shot strait out for about a foot or more. In the 5 or 6 seconds that it was running, we got approx 20oz of oil in the container.
All the testing was done on a cold engine. That is why I asked about the possibility of the line collapsing on a hot engine.
 
WarWagon said:
At least get him to quit running MM in the oil. Something is eating the bearings.

Per above ask for a picture of the oil line. It may have twisted the metal line at the turbo - thus a restriction. A hydraulic hose shop can replace the line. In fact he can put the turbo line in the oil fill and have a friend crank the engine to verify oil flow.

Have him remove and cut open the oil filter. He is looking for debris in the filter including filter failure. Also did he change the oil after the last turbo failure?

For grins you can call MM and ask them about turbo apps. Just for grins.

Not that you are denying warranty - you are helping him fix the problem. Good customer service there.

:nopics:
Click to expand...




I did warranty it, stupid I know, cant keep this up. I know it was an oil failure and customer states no. WHAT do you do? Denying the warranty claim? brings out the wolves, eating others problems makes me go out of business. Vendor = GUILTY UNTIL PROVEN GUILTY> No innocent for us.

I will post pictures of the bearings and thrust plate.
 
I've used MMO in my fuel without problems, but I've never used it in my engine oil. The product's original purpose was to act as a cleaner for fuel systems back in the 1920s, 30s, etc. because fuel refining practices were apparently all over the map back then and gummy deposits in carburetors was a not-uncommon problem. With fuel deposits largely an issue of the past, MMO is now pitched as lubrication additive. So a product that was designed to perform the roll of a solvent is now being touted as a product to promote lubricity. Hmmmm.

I once used MMO to "pickle" a marine diesel. I had lost the water pump and the engine "made oil" for lack of better terms. Really the engine oil became contaminated with water and my bilge was coated with a grey oil/water mixture. Not a good thing, especially on an engine run in the saltwater. When I got the boat home, I made a few calls and a good friend recommended that I immediately pump out the oil water mixture from the engine, then over fill it with MMO and let it sit for a week before pumping that out. The mineral oil content of the MMO would absorb the water. Then I did successive oil and filter changes, running the engine for an hour and changing, then for 10 hours and changing. I did all that, replaced the water pump and the engine runs as good as new to this day, more than 10 years later.

Guess I should post this as one of their "tales" on their website.
 
I've heard of turbo bearings being ruined by shutting a motor down from high RPM without letting it idle for a few seconds first. The oil pump stops when the motor shuts down, and the oil pressure goes to zero almost instantly. If the turbo was spinning at really high RPM then it could coast along for some time without any oil pressure.
 
Grendahl said:
I've heard of turbo bearings being ruined by shutting a motor down from high RPM without letting it idle for a few seconds first. The oil pump stops when the motor shuts down, and the oil pressure goes to zero almost instantly. If the turbo was spinning at really high RPM then it could coast along for some time without any oil pressure.
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This is fact, on ag tractors we always idle for a couple minutes to cool the turbo. In the event the engine stalls due to overload it is restarted immediately.
 
I would like to see the damaged parts myself, but has anybody thought to check the turbo drain yet? It may be blocked up with debris and not allowing oil to flow through the turbo properly. And I would tell him he had to replace his turbo feed line since his origanal turbo AND the ATT replacement BOTH failed the same way. The first turbo failure could have been a fluke to happen, but the 2nd one should be a HUGE red flag saying there is an underlying issue that MUST be addressed.
 
To the original topic of MMO. I bought some about 30 years ago to try and lube a few stubborn and often neglected mechanisms around the farm so I could get them working better. Well they worked better for a little while until the MMO turned to a gummy, sticky mess. I flushed it out and put motor oil in it's place. I threw it out and to this day I wouldn't use that crap on anything I cared about.
 
Has anyone pulled the oil cooler off to see if there is a mat of debris blocking airflow and overheating the oil?

THEFERMANATOR has a good point esp if this was a 6.2 conversion - did they leave the mech fuel pump rod in?
 
Would the drain being plugged cause high pressure on the turbo bearings and leak oil into intake or exhaust? I don't know but thought they were a labyrith type that couldn't support full pressure from "both sides"?

I am leaning towards MMO guilty until proven innocent. I wouldnt be surprised if solvency or film strength caused a problem with the shearing and foaming of oil for the turbo bearing. Or maybe viscosity index issue at higher turbo temps like warwagon said. ????
 
schiker said:
Would the drain being plugged cause high pressure on the turbo bearings and leak oil into intake or exhaust? I don't know but thought they were a labyrith type that couldn't support full pressure from "both sides"?

I am leaning towards MMO guilty until proven innocent. I wouldnt be surprised if solvency or film strength caused a problem with the shearing and foaming of oil for the turbo bearing. Or maybe viscosity index issue at higher turbo temps like warwagon said. ????
Click to expand...
What about the engine bearings then? Wouldn't they be messed up then?
 
Engine bearings never see 100,000rpm and have an abundance of oil to cool them typically, as well as water, compared to the turbo sitting on the hot manifold.
 
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