My 96 suburban has a 6.5 td with the 4l80e, for awhile it has been running rough but i haven't had time to work on it. Now it feels like the transmission gives me no power to the wheels and if i shift manually while moving under pressure the transmission shakes. I think it could be a torque converter. I found little pieces that don't look metal in the screens of the solenoids and i cleaned them recently and haven't gummed up again, i also changed the fluid. I know the fluid level is correct. I guess it could be a torque converter but i'm not positive about anything. Any help out there?
-
Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.
Your truck knowledge is missing!
- Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
- We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
- Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
- NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
Problems registering? Click here to contact us!
Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!
Major 4l80e problems
- Thread starter drew410
- Start date
engine runs fine while not in gear, although it hasn't rolled coal in a long time after a shop worked on it a year or so ago. Do you think that could be a problem?
- Staff
- #5
If you found gunk in the solenoid screens, you've got issues. If crud has made it that far, theres a good chance the filters inside the valve body are also plugged.
Should i clean out the valve body, and will that help? I also have barley any reverse and no OD.
- Staff
- #7
If you have gunk inside, it came from somewhere, and that is most likely clutch material you're finding. If it is, then no amount of cleaning is going to fix burnt clutches.
Well darn, thank you. So i should rebuild it?
Looks like you are at that rebuild point. I suggest better torque converters as the GM clutch is weak behind a diesel. Depending on your use it may not matter.
My comments on engine running well would be immediately after you fix the trans. A badly running engine can hurt a trans. You have indicated a trans problem at this point...
25k mile trans oil changes help. The tcc valve body wears out quick if you don't.
My comments on engine running well would be immediately after you fix the trans. A badly running engine can hurt a trans. You have indicated a trans problem at this point...
25k mile trans oil changes help. The tcc valve body wears out quick if you don't.
Thank you. Would replacing the clutches and cleaning the trans resolve this? I found this $230 kit and wonder if it will be enough. ( https://www.monstertransmission.com...78DGW73cTyfuIvy3vXYaAqmSEALw_wcB#.XBPWj89Kggo )
Last edited:
Usually the TCC valve body needs to be checked/repaired for wear and the Torque Converter needs to be rebuilt or replaced. The one way Sprag Clutches should also be updated and replaced. Most 4L80E's I have had rebuilt cost around $1100 in and out at a local shop and need things like sprag clutches and OD gearsets that add to that cost number.
Will L.
Well-Known Member
I would feel better about a junkyard trans than just that.
I’ve seen to many times just fixing part a and hoping part b in the toasty trans would do it. If it weren’t a case that the new parts could loose life from trying then it would be ok to do it if you dont mind r&r a few times and doing most a rebuild piece meal. But the new parts often get meesed up from other too far gone problems like other clutches slipping and newly burned oil not lubing the new parts properly.
My opinion has went to if there is one thing bad like an input sensor, ok. But if the case gets opened up- it’s a full rebuild. Because I can always resell that $250 junkyard trans later for $100 as a core and baby it until I have enough cash to fix one right.
I’ve seen to many times just fixing part a and hoping part b in the toasty trans would do it. If it weren’t a case that the new parts could loose life from trying then it would be ok to do it if you dont mind r&r a few times and doing most a rebuild piece meal. But the new parts often get meesed up from other too far gone problems like other clutches slipping and newly burned oil not lubing the new parts properly.
My opinion has went to if there is one thing bad like an input sensor, ok. But if the case gets opened up- it’s a full rebuild. Because I can always resell that $250 junkyard trans later for $100 as a core and baby it until I have enough cash to fix one right.
- Staff
- #13
You NEVER buy from monster. I live 30 miles from them and NOBODY around here buys there garbage. They make there money selling to people out of state because they make you pay for shipping. Many say screw it after the 2nd or 3rd trans, and get somebody else to build it right. They don't advertise locally because they lose money when they have to actually deal with somebody in person and theres no shipping involved.
And if you've never built a 4l80e, one that has issues isn't a good one to learn on. Many trannies that fail failed because of something else. So if you fix the trans, make sure and find what took yours out, otherwise you'll be doing it again real quick. For a basic rebuild ypu better be budgeting around $500-700 in just parts. If it has many miles you better replace all bushings, all bearings, all seals, apply pistons, stator, any pladtic accumulators, rebuild the valve body, all clutches, steels, converter, most likely putting a new pump in it, and repairing any hard part damage there may be inside of it.
Landon730
Active Member
I know Im kinda late to the thread but, my 98 3500 lost overdrive and reverse would only work at full throttle (barely still yet). That tranny was burnt smooth up. I changed the filter 2 different times to limp it along. When I started hauling with the truck it finally went. Probably didn't help that I didn't know I had a blown cooler line until I started to loose overdrive 50 miles later. Tranny lasted 200 miles after that. I'm not a big expert on transmissions but it sounds similar to what mine was doing. I forgot about the 4l80e and put a nv4500 in it. It was actually a very easy swap. Putting the manual in with the pedal and slave cylinder was easier than pulling the auto tranny in my opinion. Turns out all the trucks were setup for the manual - just didn't have the holes cut out in the cab. Even the bracket on top of the fire wall where you bolt the pedal on is in the auto trucks
thanks man that sounds just like mine. ill think about going manual, there tougher anyways.
Landon730
Active Member
Let me know if you have questions if you decide to swap
well the truck has become a secondary project to my k10 lol, but what does this swap require?
Landon730
Active Member
I’ll tell you with my truck it made a HUGE difference for towing and power. Basically all you need for swap is the tranny a little piece that goes on the tranny cross member to scoot the tranny mount forward without moving the crossmember. Bell housing, flywheel, pressure plate and clutch disc. Clutch pedal, clutch slave cylinder, the line that goes from the slave cylinder to the throw out bearing and your drive shaft lengthend. If your like me and want it to look factory you’ll need the skinnier brake pedal but only the pedal. It unbolts from the mount. It sounds like a lot but honestly it only costed $450-$500 by the time I had everything - including the driveshaft - but it makes a huge difference when pulling.
thank you, this sounds like a really good idea.