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Lowering my 96 Suburban

Dodgincones

Dodgincones

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North East Ohio
I'm looking to lower my Suburban using 2" spindles up front and 2" shackles out back. My question is regarding the spindles and retaining the stock 16" rallye style wheels. Right now there seems to be a good 3.5-4" clearance between the lower arm and the wheel, so -2" should be okay.....but it would be nice to be certain before pulling everything apart.

Hopefully the drop will be enough to gain a little in the milage dept. and be aesthetically pleasing...... :)
 
I used Daystars i think, I bought them used 6 years ago and used them 4 years ago and sold the truck soon after. It had lowering spindles when I bought it and I installed lift nuckles/spindles.
 
Good to know! I'm planning on different wheels at some point but wanted to get this step in the process done first. In the limited research I've been able to do, I've only come across -2" spindles and would have to suppliment with lowering springs if I wanted to go further.....
 
Dodgincones said:
Forgot to mention, the spindles are coming on what must be ebay's slowest truck possible from AZ...... Item #120827061833.
Click to expand...

Not to be obvious, but the auction you linked says must use 17" wheels:

Two Brand New 2" Drop Spindles

Includes:
8 - 1/8"x1-1/2" Cotter Pins
(all of the hardware that you need)

Fits:

1992 - 1998
Chevy Half Ton
Two Wheel Drive Suburban

FACTORY WHEELS CANNOT BE USED, 17" OR LARGER WHEELS ARE RECOMMENDED

Lifetime Warranty...!!
Click to expand...

I hope you caught that or have new wheels as you said you intended to use your factory 16's in the first post......
 
Yes, I did see that, and it raised the question for sure. Looking at the clearance, I think there will be room. I have learned that ebay sellers can know very little about some things......
 
I'd rather Pay to Play from a Seller that knows their Products than to Pay to Play and end up in a Telephone Pole.

Def. put your Money where it Counts when it comes to something like this.
 
I think these spindles may just go right back to the seller......casting voids make me more than uncomfortable. Certainly not looking for any "I told you so's"....more like reassuring that I'm not looking past the important stuff to save a buck. Half temped to have these X rayed for quality. Either way, I will assemble a hub/rotor onto one of these and put it into my spare wheel to see what kind of clearance I'm looking at, before I remove the stock spindles from the truck. Best as I can see right now, it may be the steering arm that comes closest to the wheel with the spindle moved up. The lower balljoint will have plenty of clearance.

Here you can clearly see the voids as black holes.... :(
 
Right, I wouldn't install it, just "bench test" the assembly. I should be able to get a real good idea of steering tierod clearance this way. It will answer any questions to fitment with my wheels and help me make a decision to return for refund or return for exchange.
 
I wouldn't even Bench Test it.

Once it's Mounted or Shows signs of Use, they can Reject your Return and WILL Win in not Giving you a Full Refund.

Don't say we didn't Warn you!
 
Mad Maxx said:
I wouldn't even Bench Test it.

Once it's Mounted or Shows signs of Use, they can Reject your Return and WILL Win in not Giving you a Full Refund.

Don't say we didn't Warn you!
Click to expand...

This is what I was getting at.

As soon as you lay a wrench to it or make scape marks on any sort, it looks "used".

Now the seller can't "resell" it after you return it as the next buyer will scream "used parts!" when he gets it.

If it looks like it's been installed in any way, shape or form the seller can refuse your refund.

And he'll win...
 
Thanks for the heads up. Seller responded that the holes were left over from the casting process, and that each piece is weighed after casting to make sure there are no "air pockets". He went on touting the lifetime warranty and that they've never had an issue in 10yrs of selling them. Basically telling me he won't exchange...... I will respond that I cannot take that chance, as if the spindle were to fail, his warranty wouldn't mean much on a totaled truck.....


Sigh.....
 
If you wanna Buy from Ebay to save a few Bucks, buy a Known Brand.

Or Ask around here to See if there are any Coupon Codes People know of to Use on Reputable Sites to get AUTHENTIC Products...Cheaper than they are on Ebay or anywhere else.
 
Update:

Last night we started operation stop-drop-n-roll. Ebay seller warrantied the suspect spindle, replacement appears to be much better in terms of casting quality. We propped the front up on stands to get going on disassembly and ended up having to literally beat the wheels off with a sledgehammer. It was not surprising to find well worn brake pads inside. The rotors will clean up with a quick pass on a brake lathe, as the ridges aren't very bad. Once we have them off, we can check the bearings to see if they require replacement. The drop spindles are clean and prepped for installation and "before" rideheights have been recorded.
 
Oh well, it needed new upper ball joints anyway.....these are original 198k mile pieces. Unfortunately, the spindles are made for a 1500 chassis. I have giant 2500-3500 sized joints on the upper arms and they don't even come close to seating far enough into the spindles..... :/
 
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