Lower Ball Joint Removal

[Problem Child]

I took the 95 3/4 ton Suburban to the alignment shop today and the guy told me I needed new upper and lower ball joints on passenger side of vehicle. He quoted a price if $400 which is probably not bad but I just spent $900 on new tires. It looks like I can get the Moogs for about $32 each from Rockauto so I'm thinking about doing this myself. The upper joint has been replaced before and is bolted on but I'm assuming the lower joint is just pressed in since I cannot see any bolts or rivets . So my question is....do I need a ball joint fork or pressing tool, can I just use a big arse hammer and knock the old joints out? Also...I assume when you replace the joints that when you tighten them down that presses them back in ? Thanks


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[DieselCash]

Press tool, it is easy with the tool. You can rent them at most auto parts places.

Like this;
http://www.harborfreight.com/ball-joint-service-kit-for-2wd-and-4wd-vehicles-60827.html

 

[hookedup50]

The harbor freight tool above worked fine as I just went through the new tire and ball joint thing in April. At least on my truck the lowers pressed right out easily. Buy the best ball joints as I paid to have them done a year ago and they were junk this year. IMO the reason they wore out so quickly was that the tie rod ends idler arm and all associated parts should have been changed when I paid for ball joints to be installed. Or they used crap parts. Its not worth doing twice, is what I'm getting at. I was on a tight budget and spent the extra spinach anyway. Hope this helps.

 

[btfarm]

When I did the front end refurbish on mine I bought the components I wanted from RA and then had a local shop install them

 

[WarWagon]

You do both sides at the same time - you don't just do one side! Bad ball joints and and worn front end parts will quickly ruin the $900 tires. Moog parts to rebuild a front end are like $800 alone.

Get a couple shops to look at it and give you quotes. This is a job to seriously consider paying someone to do.

This is one of the most difficult and dangerous repairs to do followed only by the control arm bushings. I recommend you go ahead and change these out as well with the poly 'energy suspension' parts. You have the torsion bars released and it is only a couple more bolts to do them. She will handle a lot better with poly bushings. The bolts are difficult to get out and frankly get a flat spot ground on a head to clear the diff mounts going back in.

Depending on the rust level the tool may not have the balls to press the joint out. You may need a 1 ton press.

 

[treegump]

If the press and the fork don't work in getting a ball joint out, I've found that cutting a hole in the top helps collapse the sides too. Just don't cut into the truck!

Also, a trick that has helped me out before, freeze the new ball joints in the freezer so that it slides into the cleaned out hole easier.

 

[hookedup50]

My earlier post was based on the assumption that you had the tools and knew what to expect. I have done this work before, just on solid axles. The whole job was easier compared to my saltwater beach fishing Jeep. I watched Youtube videos and reviewed the differences. I also had Heavy duty tools to get the job done. The tool that removes ball joints also presses them in, in a perfect world. If I implied this was an easy safe job I apologize. Heed War Wagon's warnings above. I spent about 8 bills on this job in parts and busted my butt(hard work) as well. Be safe!

 

[Burning oil]

Im gearing up to do the whole front end on mine. Not a fun job, But $400 sounds high to me for just up & low ball joints. Might as well do bushings and wheel bearings while the CAs are out. Then might as well do tie rods and idler arm, then just do the other side and all the ujoints. New engine and a paint job.

 

[SnowDrift]

Pay to have it done

http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/threads/lower-ball-joint-rivets.39196/#post-453450