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Low power, black smoke

so I don't have any scan tool numbers handy (no time to plug in and test) but i have a very similar problem. I have low boost and smoke but only on warm days, Started last fall so I cleaned the grounds and my problem went away all winter until the first warm day this year. Now any time it gets over about 65 70f I have the problem. Everyone seems to be saying egr or soot trap but my truck doesn't have either. Also my timing was set about -.75 btdc (I was too impatiant to try and get any closer to the magic number) Any ideas or do we need more information? Also I am planning on making a turbomaster but no time yet.
 
Had a few hours this morning, so decided to kill EGR. I can not get the 1 7/8 frost plug into the exhaust duct of lower IM - not to mention I am scared shyltess to split the casting by expanding the plug. What is normally done to install?
 
Thats some pretty thick aluminum, I dont think you will hurt it. Are you just tapping the plug in with a piece of wood around the rim or a blunt object in it and a hammer or some other method?
 
I wussed out and cleaned everything up and just used the EGR as a plug for now (dissabled). Got a code, but computer battery died before I could pull it. I don't think the EGR was leaking at idle, but it seems that when it got a signal the exhsaust backpressure was probably blowing it too far/too long open - since the truck runs much better now. Still smokes on high fuel flow, but until I get time and charge, I won't know how far up that threshold has moved. I suspect the EGR was not really broken, but maybe the kitty is plugged enough to upset the EGR's apple cart. Will collect some data tomorrow AM and see where things have changed.

Also: what is in AE to use the pressure sender for vacuum on the firewall (the one that is teed off from the vac supply of EGR solenoid)? I think the vac pump is just not putting out enough. Here's the question: everyone selling vac pumps says you need to have 20" Hg or the pump is no good. At the wastegate actuator, I can see no more than 14" - and often not even that - thus one more reason it may not be able to build enough boost to burn all of the fuel (#9 resistor not helping there). I also read somewhere on the internet that the S wouldn't give ANY boost unless the transducer on the firewall saw 20". I threw a gauge on there for a while, and it was nowhere NEAR that (thus the desire to read it's output electronically).

Finally, regarding exhaust: I am an efficiency/airflow freak, so the stock exhaust just has to go. Kitty might be constipated, or it might not. If I am going to open it up to look, I will change out. Enough horror stories about the crossover pipe to get me onto that as well. I ordered a complete system and x-over from Hearthrob Exhaust in MN today. 2.25" crossover (as are flanges - thus right for turbo feed), 3" downpipe and 4" system with glass packed perf core straight thru. I told them I didn't really want a 4", but they said that they had built the 4 and it wasn't worth running a different size since few guys would realize that 3" is more than enough for a 200HP engine. I LIKE this company. Aluminized stuff, retails for under $500 (with x-pipe) and is the same system as several vendors sell (some as their own). Yeah, I really would like a fancy stainless system such as I have on Mamma's TDI, but this is my buddy's truck and not exactly new - but it sure is growing on me.
 
Vac lines have no cracks, chafe marks, etc., but I will rig up to it when I can get back. Since (I hope) nobody reading this is SELLING pumps, what IS a reasonable value (about 1,600 ft. above MSL)?
 
14" at the actuator is about right, but out of the pump itself is supposed to be over 20" vacuum

Play with the wastegate arm, it should be stiff at idle, but with the truck off or vacuum unplugged it should move freely, if its sticky that could be an issue.

The vacuum sensor on the firewall will read Barometric pressure. And I dont know if it will also show the vacuum value in AE, it does not in GMTDScan that I use.
 
Pretty sure I moved the actuator by hand at the start of all of this, but will check again when I get back to civilization. Just saw the hose going up there from the EGR solenoid, but don`t remember what else is connected there (assumed it would be pump vac). I get the baro reading from AE in psia.
 
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