I decided I should put a new radiator res cap on the other day well I also added diesel additive. Well I overfilled my tank so I took the upper rad hose off the rad and drained about half a gallon. I noticed my coolant light came on today and the other day when I was fixing my windshield wiper switch and my blower motor resistor after I got home from work I had the hood open and I noticed off the thermostat that the radiator hose was bubbling and dripping so I tightened it up a bit. My hoses are expanded and really stretched but anyway. I don't see any coolant on the ground my rad support did look moist but I couldn't tell if it was snow melt or not. When I start the truck I checked the hose no pressure and no smell of burning coolant also no steam from exhaust and I also checked my oil after driving and its still at the same level and same color and doesn't smell like coolant. What are other areas prone to leak on this motor. It seems ever since I changed the radiator cap and took the hose off this started. I never lost coolant before this.
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Loosing coolant since I put new cap on
- Thread starter bdemutis
- Start date
Will L.
Well-Known Member
Test the new radiator cap, could be bad.
Another possibility is when you took off the upper hose, it could have created an air pocket. When you thought you lowered it to the correct level, you actually removed too much.
Another possibility is when you took off the upper hose, it could have created an air pocket. When you thought you lowered it to the correct level, you actually removed too much.
Possible but the upper hose was leaking a bit off the thermostat and I removed it off the rad to syphon it.
schiker
Well-Known Member
What pressure is new cap? iirc mine is 15 psi but new ones are 16 psi I think.
All the hoses have to be air tight (with regular coolant). If it was bubbling it was leaking.
If you have a leak above the water line it'll air leak and since the system doesn't pressurize fully it can boil coolant. Then the vapor can escape the air leak.
I had a Mitsubishi pickup with a hair line crack at the filler neck. It would slowly loose coolant this way. I had to top it off once a month depending on how I was driving. It did not build heat like the 6.5. I can see the 6.5 could vapor out some coolant faster.
All the hoses have to be air tight (with regular coolant). If it was bubbling it was leaking.
If you have a leak above the water line it'll air leak and since the system doesn't pressurize fully it can boil coolant. Then the vapor can escape the air leak.
I had a Mitsubishi pickup with a hair line crack at the filler neck. It would slowly loose coolant this way. I had to top it off once a month depending on how I was driving. It did not build heat like the 6.5. I can see the 6.5 could vapor out some coolant faster.
I think it might be 16 psi of course I threw the old one out and no one has a new hose in stock I'll put a new clamp on it since it's all rusty and bent. Also might put some k seal in it.
I'm going to put new clamps on fill it up through the hose so it gets all air out. drive it and see what happens. Ordered a new hose for Monday.
schiker
Well-Known Member
NVW
Well-Known Member
That sounds like there is air in the system.
schiker
Well-Known Member
Yeah, it should take a fair load to get to 210F. Keep a close eye on it for a while.
Clicked too fast then ran out of time editing. I wanted to mention something to you.
since it's all rusty and bent trying to quote this
Plumbing can be an art sometimes and real skill that is mastered with experience. I am only fair with "plumbing" and still practicing at getting better. Be careful touching older stuff don't disturb stuff if you don't have to unless you can replace it if you mess something up. Hind sight is 20/20. It might have been better to siphon out coolant from the expansion tank vs taking off an older hose. Try and figure out least disturbing way to accomplish goal. When working on older stuff take extra care to put back as close to exactly the same as it came apart as possible. Orient clamps exactly the same. Re attaching try and match torque plus just enough to reseal. Hold adjacent joints and don't bend stuff. Removing torque should be balanced so that it is "clean/straight torque" and only applied to bad joint only. etc etc.
Clicked too fast then ran out of time editing. I wanted to mention something to you.
since it's all rusty and bent trying to quote this
Plumbing can be an art sometimes and real skill that is mastered with experience. I am only fair with "plumbing" and still practicing at getting better. Be careful touching older stuff don't disturb stuff if you don't have to unless you can replace it if you mess something up. Hind sight is 20/20. It might have been better to siphon out coolant from the expansion tank vs taking off an older hose. Try and figure out least disturbing way to accomplish goal. When working on older stuff take extra care to put back as close to exactly the same as it came apart as possible. Orient clamps exactly the same. Re attaching try and match torque plus just enough to reseal. Hold adjacent joints and don't bend stuff. Removing torque should be balanced so that it is "clean/straight torque" and only applied to bad joint only. etc etc.
turbovanman
I has boost, :O)
I would take out the stat and run it, see if you get bubbles etc, then replace with an AC Delco unit.
I'm planning on it everything seems to be good now except the gauge jumping up and down.
Also after driving a good distance when I leave the truck for more than an hour or so. When I get back in and start it it'll start run for a few seconds and stall then I cycle the key again and start and give it some gas after it starts it'll run rough a few seconds then clear up. Bad lift pump? I have a brand new PMD with relocation kit previous owner installed it then I mounted the kit on the bumper since he had it on the firewall. Anyway thought I should ask here instead of starting a new thread.
hookedup50
Well-Known Member
The temp guage on my 97 moves as the thermostats open and close, if thats what you mean by jumping. Thats in the winter, the warm months not so noticable as they tend to stay open. I changed out my block heater recently(place to look for weeping) and it took several trips to get the air out even with the bleeder screw. Its to late now, but consider going back to OEM spring clamps in the future. They don't loosen like worm clamp and can't be overtightened and leak. Just my opinion though, these old rattlers loosen everything, especially worm clamps. You need a fuel pressure guage to know about lift pump issue. Hard start and stalling sounds like pmd issues I've had in the past on hot starting. Runaway and surging also happened as well as symptoms, that lets you know you're alive as it would always happen with a red light and cars stopped ahead.
I guess the only way to test if it's the pmd is to buy a known good one I have two extra but don't know if there any good and the pmd was just put on this truck not long before I bought it. Of course I don't have a receipt for this one I think he might have got it off flea bay.