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Loonngggg trip for a 6.5 to haul a trailer - advice?

G

great white

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Canada's Ocean Playground
So I may have one really looooong tow this spring:

Untitled-1-4-1-1.jpg


Quite a route (I won't be travelling the #17 in ontario, we'll take the 400 down to the 401)

My 1998 (see sig) will be hauling our 31 footer:

DSC04006.jpg


(35 feet hitch to bumper) the whole way.

I was looking for advice in a couple areas.

1. Route

The trailer is pretty big for the ol' girl and I was looking for the least painful way across the cont divide. The Canadian route across the ranges in BC/Alberta isn't going to happen. Anyone know of a better route than what I've got planned for the western part of the trip (as in, elevation)?

2. Truck prep and parts

Standard truck stuff is going to happen IE: engine and trans filter/oil change, axles fluids, etc. But what I'm looking for is what spare parts would be good to have in the truck?

I already have a spare PMD, fuel filter and injector pump that I'm going to throw in back. Lift pump won't be an issue, I'll have my raptor 100 installed by then.

I'm going to pick up a boost solenoid (little black one with green dot) to chuck in the dash. I was thinking about chucking in a Spare vac pump, or just put on a new one and chuck the still serviceable old one in the parts box.

I'll probably pick up a spare belt and maybe some hoses.

Any other ideas?


The move (yup, military likes to move ya) may not happen, but I'm planning now in case it does....
 
Standard anti sway and WD hitch setup if you don't have it already.

Another unmounted trailer spare tire in addition to your regular trailer spare tire.

How old are the trailer tires? Any visible weather checking or cracks? If they are made in China replace at 3 years old. Made elsewhere suspect them at 3 years old. This includes the spare tire. Nothing like a unused spare tire separating in the carrier...

Pull the wheels and brake drums on the trailer and inspect the brakes and adjust them... Grease the bearings while you are doing this as part of the inspection. You are looking for magnet wear not just lining wear. (Magnets wear through and short out.)
 
WarWagon said:
Standard anti sway and WD hitch setup if you don't have it already.
Click to expand...

Husky centerline hitch:

31390_completehitch.png


WarWagon said:
Another unmounted trailer spare tire in addition to your regular trailer spare tire.
Click to expand...

Good idea

WarWagon said:
How old are the trailer tires? Any visible weather checking or cracks? If they are made in China replace at 3 years old. Made elsewhere suspect them at 3 years old. This includes the spare tire. Nothing like a unused spare tire separating in the carrier...

Pull the wheels and brake drums on the trailer and inspect the brakes and adjust them... Grease the bearings while you are doing this as part of the inspection. You are looking for magnet wear not just lining wear. (Magnets wear through and short out.)
Click to expand...


Trailer is a 2011 and has only come home from the dealership so far this year. Age and wear is not really a concern...

:)
 
I should add that I thought the same thing about tires with my 'only a year old trailer.' The 2008 Haulmark I bought in 2009 had tires made in 2006. They lasted 2 weeks, 3K miles, before all 4 separated. Caught it before the treads came off. See this post.
Wear is irrelevant in trailer tires as they are not designed to 'wear out' as age kills them first due to low use. They also have a 65 MPH top speed rating. 15K - 30K depending on load is typical trailer tire wear life for my cargo trailer.
 
doesn't matter how much you prepare. You could have a brand new truck and still break down. Your going to be in relatively populated areas. Try the Alcan in the dead of winter.
 
Sell the 6.5 and buy a D-max. :lol:

J/K (kinda). Just make sure everything is up to snuff, and make sure you have spares of everything on hand (Oil, anti-freeze, trans fluid, filters, etc). Take it slow and have fun.
 
as far as route, I80 isnt as bad as other pulls of the rockies. dad's 92 handled the rockies on I80 loaded to 23K combo without issue, and that is bone stock (remember, farm equipment disassembled on a trailer isnt nearly as bad as a RV. you have a lot of aero drag.)

Do you think that you need to hurry along your Coming Much later part of the sig, mostly the trans. pan.? I am no auto expert, so feel free to ignore.

also, considering the aero drag, would a camper shell help buck the wind?

also, on guages, you list boost and pyro. is there an auto trans temp guage yet?
 
From your map it looks like you plan on coming down to the Seattle area and then pick up I-90 and go east. I know nothing about the first part of I-90 through the Cascade Mountains and the Columbia River canyon. From the Columbia River I-90 climbs up onto the Columbia Plateau and stays pretty much flat on through Spokane and Coeur D'Alene. Here is where my memory goes fuzzy. I don't remember any big hills going through the Rockies but I better stop before I steer you wrong. I have been on I-90 clear on through to somewhere around Milwaukie, Wisconsin but that was about ten years ago.

You could also take I-90 to Ellensburg, Washington then I-82 down the Columbia to I-84 in Oregon. On I-84 east of Pendleton you would have to contend with Cabbage Hill. After Cabbage Hill I-84 is fairly tame through Oregon and I don't remember any major stuff through Idaho and into Salt Lake City, Utah. I don't remember any major problems going over the Rockies east of SLC and into Wyoming.

Personally, I think either route, I-90 or I-84 is going to be similar. However, it might be worth researching and comparing.

Don
 
GM Guy said:
as far as route, I80 isnt as bad as other pulls of the rockies. dad's 92 handled the rockies on I80 loaded to 23K combo without issue, and that is bone stock (remember, farm equipment disassembled on a trailer isnt nearly as bad as a RV. you have a lot of aero drag.)

Do you think that you need to hurry along your Coming Much later part of the sig, mostly the trans. pan.? I am no auto expert, so feel free to ignore.

Maybe, I'l give it some thought

also, considering the aero drag, would a camper shell help buck the wind?

the truck already wears a camper shell/truck cap

also, on guages, you list boost and pyro. is there an auto trans temp guage yet?

Trying for it this spring. Cash is tight all over.....:rolleyes5:
Click to expand...

:)
 
handcannon said:
From your map it looks like you plan on coming down to the Seattle area and then pick up I-90 and go east. I know nothing about the first part of I-90 through the Cascade Mountains and the Columbia River canyon. From the Columbia River I-90 climbs up onto the Columbia Plateau and stays pretty much flat on through Spokane and Coeur D'Alene. Here is where my memory goes fuzzy. I don't remember any big hills going through the Rockies but I better stop before I steer you wrong. I have been on I-90 clear on through to somewhere around Milwaukie, Wisconsin but that was about ten years ago.

You could also take I-90 to Ellensburg, Washington then I-82 down the Columbia to I-84 in Oregon. On I-84 east of Pendleton you would have to contend with Cabbage Hill. After Cabbage Hill I-84 is fairly tame through Oregon and I don't remember any major stuff through Idaho and into Salt Lake City, Utah. I don't remember any major problems going over the Rockies east of SLC and into Wyoming.

Personally, I think either route, I-90 or I-84 is going to be similar. However, it might be worth researching and comparing.

Don
Click to expand...

Thanks, that's the kind of stuff I'm looking for.

Cheers
 
I just used my Garmin topo map and compared I-90 coming up from the Columbia River onto the Columbia Plateau and Cabbage Hill on I-84. I-90 would be a breeze compared to Cabbage Hill. I-90 appears to be about a 600' climb in about 5 miles while Cabbage Hill is over 1500' in about 6 miles. When I tried going further east I found that my map doesn't show topo lines east of Washington or Oregon. So a different source will be needed for the Rockies.

Don
 
Ya Know, I love the venerable old 6.2/6.5 but after many many years of hogging these critters around, I would really have to think long and hard before pulling that size trailer across the continent with a 6.5

I fully understand the issues involved with getting a different truck and such, butttttttttt.

Missy
 
great white said:
So I may have one really looooong tow this spring:

Untitled-1-4-1-1.jpg


Quite a route (I won't be travelling the #17 in ontario, we'll take the 400 down to the 401)

My 1998 (see sig) will be hauling our 31 footer:

DSC04006.jpg


(35 feet hitch to bumper) the whole way.

I was looking for advice in a couple areas.

1. Route

The trailer is pretty big for the ol' girl and I was looking for the least painful way across the cont divide. The Canadian route across the ranges in BC/Alberta isn't going to happen. Anyone know of a better route than what I've got planned for the western part of the trip (as in, elevation)?
Click to expand...

Did the fact that the Canadian Railway has to go through spirals to navigate the grade in the Rockies spook you?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gEe9d69NpyM

Been there. Pretty country and tough to pass up. Buy a Duramax and do the trip the right way.
 
It all boils down as to how quick you want to get there. If you take your time and watch the gauges you will be OK.

A lot of big loads were hauled with trucks with less than 300 hp, they just didn't climb hills very fast or buck winds well.
 
And I'm wondering how much that trailer weighs. I pull over 9000lbs toyhauler all the time with mine. Trip to Grand Canyon, Yellowstone, and pull a grade here in the Sierras that is a 6-8% grade for almost 5 miles, at least once a month, sometimes 4 times a month. I have had Dodges pulling smaller trailers pulled over overheating, Fords on the side of the road with the hood up. And I thought I heard certain Dmax's have overheating issues towing also. Not saying the 6.5 is better than any of these trucks, and no I won't win any speed races, but on a cool day I can pull that grade at 55 no problem. I think you will be fine if you just watch temps and take your time.
 
I wouldn't take I84, that's going south quite a ways just to go back north. I90 in the Idaho panhandle is good, there's a 4-6% grade for a couple miles climbing over the border to Montana that's a little slow due to curves. The Montana side isn't as curvy. From there to Butte you have relatively flat, straight, and good road. Butte you climb the continental divide. It's not bad as mountain passes go. There's definitely a lot worse out there. From there all the way across Montana to I94 across N. Dakota is pretty much flat and straight. Just make sure you fuel up at the big towns so you don't get soaked in prices. I've never been past the twin cities in MN so past that I'm no help.
 
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