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Looks like i have a problem

Haha, not to often ya see someone go grammar police on themselves! 2 points!

So Josh, any word on this? Or is this what lead to the latest one to follow you home?
 
Sometimes it's the autospell or voice to text that can't differentiate between to, too and too or there, they're and their or through and threw or fore and four or it's and its or wheel and we'll (and if you have a drawl, will, too) Will!:)
 
Yea I hate that voice recognition stuff, doesn't understand my Texas accent worth a damn. Let alone when I drink I talk like Boomhower and it's game over hahahaha.
Be really glad that when you drink you don't sound like Bobby Hill!
BTW, I LOVE King of the Hill
 
Well i finally got the enigne all back together and droped in today. After my bad luck with heads and blocks i ended up fixing my old 599 block. 4 more of tje main bolt holes had cracked so i just went ahead and put full torque inserts in all 5 that didnt have them from before. A new crank and cam, new heads, new rings and all new bearings. Also since all the water ruined the gm8 that i had i went back to my old gm5

I decided to go with out the vacume pump since i wasnt to impressed with it, and the tm was still on the gm5 from the old reg cab.

Heres my question whats the belt length with out the vacume pump? Also as im writing this i began to wonder can you just take it off or is an idler necessary?

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Yes, generally 1" shorter when going to a vacuum delete setup.

If a parts store is easily accessible, consider buying belts of different sizes, keep the best fit, and take back the remainder.
 
Interesting on the CCH heads. When I rebuilt my old 6.5L I had the original heads checked, they showed horrible cracks all over near the valve seats. For the price I went with CCH heads, I couldn't find any bad reviews at the time. I slapped them on with ARP studs and had no issues in the 45K miles and maybe 2 years i drove the truck till I sold it. Ran it like that with a tune and Holset WH1C.
 
With your luck I would have ordered a surplus longblock 6.2/6.5 that was test run and call it a day. I may run a "zombie walking dead" mains cracked block, but, it makes me nervous that some day it's going to stab the crank into the pavement at high RPM. IMO the lower backpressure turbo helps it live longer.

The 1992/93 belts are generally the proper length for vac pump deletes unless perhaps you have the AC compressor on the driver's side.
 
Got my last few parts that i had ordered, just happens that they where from leroy. This oil drain kit is far easier to install than the factory one and won't leak like the factory ones.

Nice part

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After spending all night trying to get the timing right (went to far and got -2.46 and the 1214 code what a pain to get to clear) took it for a drive around town and got a p0335 crank shaft pisition sensor a circuit. How do i fix this ive not had this before

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Make sure that the sensor wiring harness is intact and plugged in with a good connection. If it still sets the code, swap in a known good (possibly new) CPS and see if it still sets the code.
 
I was getting the code P0236 something about boost circuit A, consistently, until I cleaned the terminals at the back of the engine.
If it were Me, I would start with cleaning the terminal next to the A/C compressor.
 
I was getting the code P0236 something about boost circuit A, consistently, until I cleaned the terminals at the back of the engine.
If it were Me, I would start with cleaning the terminal next to the A/C compressor.
That code was stored from when i had the upper intake pff setting the timing its the p0335 that is causing my problem

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