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Looking to get some grunt out of the old 6.5

Use as much steel as you can, that way short pieces only require reploacement, also needs to be Diesel fuel rated, or Bio-D if you ever plan on running some of that, regular gasser fuel line won't work for long rubber is too soft andf gets gummy. Diesel line can get hard and crack over time so you'll want to make connections easily accesable for repair/replacement.
 
I installed a 11/2 mallory FP gauge in that lower left hand empty area on the instrument bezel(below turn signal). I'm not around truck to send pic, but someone here sent me a pic on a earlier thread and can't find it.
 
Don't tell anyone, but I run a mech gauge in the burb. I might have to pay for that someday.
 
The smell of diesel in the cab would be an iprovement till I reline my headliner and get new carpet. Very mousey in there since it was sitting broken 2 years.
 
pacificdrumma said:
Im not ready to start buying parts yet, but thanks for the offer!

Whats the best source for a 3 gauge setup? Im thinking boost pyro and trans temp, and so far glowshift is cheapest. Not gonna spend the money on Heath's setup and autometers. I have a grey interior, and would like to match it.

And whats a good way to run a fuel pressure gauge?
Click to expand...

Just be cautious about using Glowshift gauges. I went the Glowshift route due to cost and wish I hadn't. Out of five gauges I have only two still working, both mechanical. The fuel pressure sender went bad, replaced it, went bad again and gave up on it. The coolant temp gauge needle started banging from stop to stop violently. Because of the fuel pressure sender problem I disconnected the sender thinking that would help. Even without the gauge hooked to any sender the needle continued the violent banging. The tranny temp gauge started the same violent banging on occasion, and reading way too high.

The only gauges still working are boost and EGT, both mechanical. I am fed up with the gauges and will replace them someday, as I have the funds. What a waste of good money, that I can not afford to lose.

Don
 
Hmmm.. Sounds like the mechanical gauges are more reliable. Boost and EGT is what I need at a minimum, trans temp would be nice too. If not glowshit, what do you guys recommend for an inexpensive gauge setup?
 
i can't remember where I got them, but I got my a-pillar mount, and both boost and EGT gauges for like $250 bucks, they are ISSPRO gauges, and have worked flawlessly
 
More planning going on, talking to my local mechanic who does all the work on my truck. Master tech for Cummins used to work on big rigs, now he is a mechanic for my town, fixes everything from F150's to Volvo and Cat bucket loaders. My town has a couple 6.5 powered dump trucks so he knows his way around a 6.5, in addition to owning a couple 12v's and knowing them backwards and forwards. Just had a little front end work done this week, just gotta do shocks, then its time for go fast parts to start happening.

First is gonna be lift pump (frc-10) and FTB, then gauges, then injectors, then turbo and exhaust, then chip. :) :) :)
 
I'd do the exhaust, turbo, then tune. That way you can see each stage of your trucks growth. I doubt anyone would argue with doing it all at once though, thats how I do things. Once I tear a truck down it stays that way for a couple weeks (or yrs) until I get all I can afford.
 
The plan is to get everything ready to drop the tune and turbo in. Get the fueling stuff done, get the tranny ready, get intake and exhaust, get gauges, then do ecm and turbo together. I doubt it will happen like that though.
 
I'd get gauges in before any of those, just so you know what is happening. You'll also be able to monitor improvements.

I've got electrical gauges from Banks - not sure who really makes them - but I've got about 10 years on them and they're still fine.
 
I like the quick response of mechanical gauges, but have found a small issue that an electric water temp gauge would avoid.

I get a little injector noise carrying in on my mechanical coolant temp gauge, via the copper capillary tube. Sender is in the right-hand cylinder head's temp sensor port. Capillary tube isn't touching an injector line, etc.; may just be close enough to that back injector. Added some damping material stuck on the tube, which lessened the noise a bit.

It's just a tick, tick at part throttle, goes away with higher fueling, or coast/no fuel. Just mildly annoying after adding sound damping materials which made the cab notably quieter & the injector noise riding that gauge capillary tube that much more noticeable.
 
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