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Looking for proportioning valve

The new line is the one with the low flow. When I checked the flow I was actually just bleeding the lines at the bleeder valve on the wheel cylinder (passenger side is the low flow side). So the bleeder valve was cracked open a bit. I made between 5 and 10 rounds bleeding all the brakes, The others were fine but I kept doing rounds on account of the rear passenger side and the low flow. Maybe I just got a faulty wheel cylinder (I replaced it when I did the brakes), I've heard of people getting faulty new parts.
 
when you bleed the brakes, which method did you use? 2 people(one at the brake pedal, other at the bleeder), a bleeder kit(little bottle with a check valve), or gravity bleed?

I know I ask a lot of questions. I'm wondering it you either have a bit of air in the cylinder itself or the shoes aren't close enough to force it all out. it you bleed them make sure the proportioning valve is held open, a small C clamp works nice.

and when you do a set of brakes clean drums and rotors are a must. brake clearer is less then $7 a can, but can save you a lot of headaches.
 
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NOTE FOR BURNING OIL

the height sensing valve(the one on the diff) was on the R/V series(square bodies 88-91) along with the C/K 88-?. the C/K ones are different though.

it may be on the older square bodies but IDK for sure
 
When I bled the brakes I did the 2 man way. I was opening and closing valves while my buddy was pumping brakes. Also we started at back passenger side then back driver side then front passenger side then front driver side.

I'll try the things you mentioned, I'll probably check the shoes first and see if the flow gets better if shoes aren't tight enough. If that doesn't work I'll try bleeding the brakes with the proportion valve open and if that doesn't do it I'll probably replace the wheel cylinder. And I'll also change out the hydro booster when it warms a bit.

As far as the questions go, I'm fine with them, helps me get an understanding of the importance of certain components, so thanks for that haha.
 
one note for when you do the hyrdoboost. the brake rod from the pedal isn't attached to the boost side. I found this out when I had to change the mounting for my pedal setup. it's just kinda placed inside a 'cup'.

as for bleeding the brakes if you've got some time before you do it, jack up the passenger side rear corner for a hour or so. any air from the 't' on will want to go to the cylinder then.
 
Ok will do, thanks for all the time and info. I'll re-post when I get it taken care of and let you konw what the problem was.
 
Well we had a warm day yesterday so I messed with the shoes and sure enough they were loose. I tightend the one side up and can notice a diferance when stopping with out my trailer. It still had low flow out of the bleeder valve but I'll do some more investigating when I get another warm day.

Thanks for all the help too.
 
that's why we're all here, to help each other out. the bleeder itself might be the problem. they get full of junk if the don't have covers on them.

keep us posted
 
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