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Looking at a 6.5L with Starter Bolt Issues

GM Guy

Manual Trans. 2WD Enthusiast
Messages
4,838
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Location
NW Kansas and SC Idaho
Hey all, I am looking at a 6.5L with stripped starter bolt holes. Seller claims "One is still 3/8s, other looks like its 5/8 or so"

What all can be dont to get this back to OEM hole size?

Does the lock-n-stitch insert work on these?

Someone else suggested this: https://www.ebay.com/p/?iid=2722735...17182-37290-0%26rvr_id%3D1222374163192&chn=ps

Here is the description of what all is for sale:

supposed good condition low mile Goodwrench 6.5L in a whole front frame clip, engine, transmission, t-case, front diff, suspension and hubs and axles. also has a complete uncut harness and the ECM. (truck had title issues so he junked it and made a pickup box trailer out of it)

He wants 600 bucks. IP looks recent. There is another kid who is interested, so I doubt he will dicker on price.

Do you think there is enough there to make up for it if the block cant be saved?

Any info appreciated,
Thanks!
 
Yes, things like time sert can work. Only problem is, IF he drilled and tapped the hole in the exact spot.

Even if he drilled it in the wrong spot, flip the engine upside down on a stand. Patiently weld it solid with nickle rod. Weld it a little keeping a water soaked towel wraped around the area until it start cooking the water off, stop. When it is cooled weld a bit again. Repeat until filled, then drill and tap.

This cold style of welding cast iron is controversial as not being strongest, but for the force applied it is fine and doesn't require a complete tear down.

If you are tearing all the way down and can pre and post heat the block, then welding normally with the nickle rod is best.

One of these days maybe someone will make a nickle wire for a mig welder...
 
Those parts even if cores would be worth that price. That block may be shot anyway but you wont know till you check the mains for cracks.

I paid 600 for a truck a few years back just for the manual transmission. The engine had a bad knock that sounds like a broken piston skirt. I gingerly drove it down the street and around the corner and then stopped an disabled the nozzle for the bad hole and plugged the injector line into the return line. Has a little lope but no noise and we are still driving it around today. It's a 91 or 92 and I am hoping a 599? block.
 
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IP, Heads, and manifolds have value. The crank can also be sold. Oil pan... Belt drive mounts have value on ebay. (esp. 6.2 vbelt AC stuff.) The scrap metal value in the block also helps.

I wouldn't rebuild/use a block with a bad starter mount. Cracked mains: Yes! Starters: Noooo! The mains ultimately fail once when the starter can fail over and over.
 
IP, Heads, and manifolds have value. The crank can also be sold. Oil pan... Belt drive mounts have value on ebay. (esp. 6.2 vbelt AC stuff.) The scrap metal value in the block also helps.

I wouldn't rebuild/use a block with a bad starter mount. Cracked mains: Yes! Starters: Noooo! The mains ultimately fail once when the starter can fail over and over.

Good to know on the vbelt stuff.
Not sure what you mean on the cracked mains. You would rebuild a block with cracked mains?
 
I would if I were you for $400.
Your fleet is big enough to justify those extra parts being around even if the block turns scrap metal.

Sell off the things that you figure you'll never use.

If you had a rolling truck for a couple hundo and drop in the drivetrain it could drag you a few grand profit for 3 days work putting them together.
 
Good to know on the vbelt stuff.
Not sure what you mean on the cracked mains. You would rebuild a block with cracked mains?
not rebuild. just drive it. cracked mains can go 100K if they want to.
 
Good to know on the vbelt stuff.
Not sure what you mean on the cracked mains. You would rebuild a block with cracked mains?

Rebuild vs. overhaul. I wouldn't rebuild a crack prone GM casting because it's cheaper to get a New Optimizer long block. So "Overhaul" fix what broke or just new rings and gaskets with a deglaze. I have 36K on an engine that ate a worm clamp, NOS slugs, gapless rings, and different used heads. We noted 2 or 3 cracked mains during the overhaul repair and did not touch the mains bolts.
 
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