So now I’m really at a loss, when I bypass OPS with a jump wire the pump works. Put im a new OPS no power to the pump. But it shows oil pressure when I go to crank it over… I’m so confused. Do you think it’s an oil pressure issue? Any ideas? I’m in rock springs Wyoming.. no shop wants to take it. Any suggestions on shops or mechanics in the area?
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Lift pump not getting power!! Please help I’m stuck in a parking lot
- Thread starter Diyeli
- Start date
-
- Tags
- 6.2/6.5 lift pump relay
dbrannon79
I'm getting there!
Not saying your new ops is bad, but the ones at the auto parts are cheap junk that don't last. I had to replace mine and it only lasted a week and failed. ordered one from the dealer (genuine GM part) and all was good. inside the ops there are very tiny contacts that supply all the power to the pump and if your pump is pulling a little too much amperage it will cook the ops. plus the auto parts ones are made in china!
you verified jumping the connector pins at the ops will turn on the pump so yes the ops is the issue. now it can be also the connector it's self not making contact in the sensor. the pins in there can get weak and even now that you stuck a jumper wire in them could have spread them out even more where they are not making good contact in the sensor.
it's really hard to diagnose this since the ops will only send power when pressure is present. if you are home and have an air compressor available you can pull the new ops out, connect it and then apply pressure to the end with a blow gun while wiggling the connector and see what happens. otherwise you might want to just replace the pigtail connector if the pins look worn or even if it's missing the rubber silicone seal that goes around it. without that rubber in there the connector will wiggle and wobble around. it only takes about 10 psi to actuate the ops and turn on the pump.
you verified jumping the connector pins at the ops will turn on the pump so yes the ops is the issue. now it can be also the connector it's self not making contact in the sensor. the pins in there can get weak and even now that you stuck a jumper wire in them could have spread them out even more where they are not making good contact in the sensor.
it's really hard to diagnose this since the ops will only send power when pressure is present. if you are home and have an air compressor available you can pull the new ops out, connect it and then apply pressure to the end with a blow gun while wiggling the connector and see what happens. otherwise you might want to just replace the pigtail connector if the pins look worn or even if it's missing the rubber silicone seal that goes around it. without that rubber in there the connector will wiggle and wobble around. it only takes about 10 psi to actuate the ops and turn on the pump.
Will L.
Well-Known Member
Turning the key multiple times was just because it is fast diagnosing at the moment. Long term- yes a switch to bypass is the way to go. But so is putting is a real lift pump. But in his current situation - need to find out what all is an issue.
@Diyeli
You ABSOLUTELY have to fix the leak regardless how small it is. When the ip exceeds the capacity of the LP it will go from leaking fuel to sucking air and will run insanely rough at best, die at worst.
Fixed the leak on the fuel filter housing, just needed and o ring… I guess I’m going to to ahead and start try to test the OPS to see if the new one is bad. I’m really not sure what else to do. Could it actually be an oil pressure issue even tho is shows oil pressure when I crank it ?
dbrannon79
I'm getting there!
What is your oil pressure normally? it should only take about 10 psi to allow the ops to function the LP
side note: testing the ops with a blow gun, if you can regulate the pressure down to at least 40 it would be best. full 125psi from a compressor can possibly blow out the little diaphragm in the ops
side note: testing the ops with a blow gun, if you can regulate the pressure down to at least 40 it would be best. full 125psi from a compressor can possibly blow out the little diaphragm in the ops
Will L.
Well-Known Member
Imo buy the relay kit with the switch from Leroy. Not expensive and easy install.
The switch is great for every time you replace the filter and for situations such as this.https://leroydiesel.com/products/263/
Be careful listening to me- I will have you upgrading the whole rig.
You need a whopping 6” of this: https://fuel-line.com/collections/fuel-line/products/1-4-fast-flow-fuel-line-1
Replace the return line coming out of the front of the ip with it. The clear line lets you see any contamination, any air intrusion (bubbles), and verify flow. Instant diagnostics when things go goofy.
Then I push for a fuel pressure gauge tapped in metal at the ip inlet. I suggest electric gauge rather than mechanical. Mount the gauge where you see it while driving. Db2 should be 5psi range. DS4 should be 8-14psi. Low fuel pressure looses power, looses mpg, and when it gets too low it ruins the ip.
Then when you discover the factory style LP is wholly inadequate for the ds4 (if you have one) I will recommend a five million dollar lift pump. The best move is Fass with the filter set up. Eliminate the factory ffm. The Fass will stop water which ruins ip & injectors, which injectors under right failure condition ruins piston.
Pow- there went $1300!
The switch is great for every time you replace the filter and for situations such as this.https://leroydiesel.com/products/263/
Be careful listening to me- I will have you upgrading the whole rig.
You need a whopping 6” of this: https://fuel-line.com/collections/fuel-line/products/1-4-fast-flow-fuel-line-1
Replace the return line coming out of the front of the ip with it. The clear line lets you see any contamination, any air intrusion (bubbles), and verify flow. Instant diagnostics when things go goofy.
Then I push for a fuel pressure gauge tapped in metal at the ip inlet. I suggest electric gauge rather than mechanical. Mount the gauge where you see it while driving. Db2 should be 5psi range. DS4 should be 8-14psi. Low fuel pressure looses power, looses mpg, and when it gets too low it ruins the ip.
Then when you discover the factory style LP is wholly inadequate for the ds4 (if you have one) I will recommend a five million dollar lift pump. The best move is Fass with the filter set up. Eliminate the factory ffm. The Fass will stop water which ruins ip & injectors, which injectors under right failure condition ruins piston.
Pow- there went $1300!