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Leaking trans cooler.

WarWagon

WarWagon

Well it hits on 7 of 8...
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:suicide: Brand new radiator. Nothing more to say than PO'd about having to do the job over again. Trans oil was due for a change anyway. (Both will be contaminated from the leaking oil to water intercooler.)

trans_oil.jpg
 
Oh geeZ.. Transmixers do not like water. The clutch material is held to the steel with a water based glue. Just what you wanted to hear.
 
Exchanging "New" radiator for non leaking "New" radiator...
 
So the Trans cooler is internal to the '93 radiator and yours ended up leaking? Ugh! That is the rub on new parts warranties for home mechanics, any for that matter, they don't pay for your lost time.
 
:cussing: I won't be going to Performance Radiator, a national chain, for ANYTHING in the future. I have dad take in the radiator to be exchanged. I give him a full page printed out picture of the above.

They still insist on sending it to their shop to be tested before exchange. This has my vehicle down for another day and another trip to the place 45 min away. They may or may not get it tested by this afternoon meaning rush hour traffic downtown if I want to get it going today, IF they get to it.

I'll be checking with my bank on the card used and refund/dispute conditions. :mad2:

So I get to do the job over, I get to travel 45 min each way one more time, and I am down for a week by the time all the screwing around is done.
 
3500GMC said:
I know Harrison (OE GM) still does the copper brass versions, dunno about the AL plastic type..?
Click to expand...

I needed a replacement radiator and on Craigslist I found a used, good condition, copper/brass rad. It works good, never have a problem, UNTIL I start towing. I can tow on the flats all day long without a problem. But, when I start going up hills the temps start climbing.

I have a DMax fan, HO/balanced flow pump, and heavy duty fan clutch that is only two years old. I just put in new AC Delco 195* stats. The new stats were the same temp as the old ones, and looked totally identical. I don't know about the timing as I don't have a way to check/set it. I don't know if timing affects the running temps of a diesel as much as it will on a gasser. I do need to check the exterior of the rad for cleanliness as it has been in the pickup for about two years now.

The whole upshot of this is that I don't yet have an answer for my towing temps, and Heath claims that the 6.5 doesn't like the copper/brass rads. I don't have access to one of the aluminum rads to experiment with. Has anybody else had any experience with this?

This subject is a little bit of a sidetrack, but it is still about rads.

Don
 
handcannon said:
I needed a replacement radiator and on Craigslist I found a used, good condition, copper/brass rad. It works good, never have a problem, UNTIL I start towing. I can tow on the flats all day long without a problem. But, when I start going up hills the temps start climbing.

I have a DMax fan, HO/balanced flow pump, and heavy duty fan clutch that is only two years old. I just put in new AC Delco 195* stats. The new stats were the same temp as the old ones, and looked totally identical. I don't know about the timing as I don't have a way to check/set it. I don't know if timing affects the running temps of a diesel as much as it will on a gasser. I do need to check the exterior of the rad for cleanliness as it has been in the pickup for about two years now.

The whole upshot of this is that I don't yet have an answer for my towing temps, and Heath claims that the 6.5 doesn't like the copper/brass rads. I don't have access to one of the aluminum rads to experiment with. Has anybody else had any experience with this?

This subject is a little bit of a sidetrack, but it is still about rads.

Don
Click to expand...

I have an aluminum rad from the wrecked '95, cheap. Too bad I had driven to Medford, OR just two weeks ago.
 
Make sure your oil coolers don't have a mat of debris behind them. Copper/brass vs. aluminum plastic cool the same. The solder's thermal resistance between the fins and tubes make it equal to the aluminum design. The aluminum weighs less and costs a lot less. I have used both and they perform the same. Specifically replaced the leaking copper brass unit in the 1993 with aluminum, wrecked it, and got a replacement used copper brass unit in the replacement 1993 6.5 truck... All while towing a parts route.

Lower the coolant level and check the internal tubes for a buildup. A radiator shop can clean this up.

I use 180 t stats towing as the delay to get the fan on results in temp spikes towing. The factory turbo keeps a lot of heat in the engine esp. towing. I have a lot less fan with the ATT towing even with the low temp KD clutch.

radiator place couldn't find a problem, but, they replaced the trans cooler. Logistics and part stock make this rough. :skep:
 
WarWagon said:
Make sure your oil coolers don't have a mat of debris behind them. Copper/brass vs. aluminum plastic cool the same. The solder's thermal resistance between the fins and tubes make it equal to the aluminum design. The aluminum weighs less and costs a lot less. I have used both and they perform the same. Specifically replaced the leaking copper brass unit in the 1993 with aluminum, wrecked it, and got a replacement used copper brass unit in the replacement 1993 6.5 truck... All while towing a parts route.

Lower the coolant level and check the internal tubes for a buildup. A radiator shop can clean this up.

I use 180 t stats towing as the delay to get the fan on results in temp spikes towing. The factory turbo keeps a lot of heat in the engine esp. towing. I have a lot less fan with the ATT towing even with the low temp KD clutch.

radiator place couldn't find a problem, but, they replaced the trans cooler. Logistics and part stock make this rough. :skep:
Click to expand...

WW, I appreciate your comments on the copper/brass vs the alum rads. Coming from someone who tows heavy, and daily, means a lot.

The rad I currently have was checked and tested by a rad shop before putting it into use, and given a "good condition" assessment. I have a piece of window screen over the cooling stack to keep the big stuff from going through and building up between the coolers and rad. I did check and there is no buildup, however it wouldn't hurt to take the rad out to do a deep clean of the externals.

My next step will probably be to go to some 180* stats, as that is the least expensive.

Don
 
The window screen is a restriction. Try a place you are running hot without the screen and see if it helps.

You have 2 delays with runaway temps. 1. getting the t-stat open. 2. Getting the fan thermal spring to move and then move the working fluid to allow clutch lockup. Your ECT will climb till the fan locks in.
 
Well I pulled the trans dipstick out and raised the trans oil level by 1 quart after getting it back up and running today. I then checked the level when I got back from town and added another quart. Then the dipstick went all milkshake on me! :eek5:

Off to the trans shop to see if they can flush it and save it.
 
WarWagon said:
The window screen is a restriction. Try a place you are running hot without the screen and see if it helps.

You have 2 delays with runaway temps. 1. getting the t-stat open. 2. Getting the fan thermal spring to move and then move the working fluid to allow clutch lockup. Your ECT will climb till the fan locks in.
Click to expand...

The fan clutch not working soon enough can be eliminated. Last summer I played around with the thermal spring mod and got that sorted out. The spring wasn't the same as seen in the mod instructions so I had to improvise. The fan now is on almost all the time. For this reason I undo the mod during winter.

My next step is to get cooler stats. I'm not sure when I will get a chance to run over Santiam Pass without the window screen, and still have summer weather.

I apologize for the hijack. I wasn't intending for this to get a life of its own. It just started with a comment.

Don
 
WarWagon said:
Well I pulled the trans dipstick out and raised the trans oil level by 1 quart after getting it back up and running today. I then checked the level when I got back from town and added another quart. Then the dipstick went all milkshake on me! :eek5:

Off to the trans shop to see if they can flush it and save it.
Click to expand...

I'd be trying to pin the rad shop down that sold you the radiator. When our Nissan trans cooler blended coolant and trans fluid nissan took care of it because we bought the replacement rad from them. NEW Trans and Rad with 5yr 100K warrenty.
 
tanman_2006 said:
I'd be trying to pin the rad shop down that sold you the radiator. When our Nissan trans cooler blended coolant and trans fluid nissan took care of it because we bought the replacement rad from them. NEW Trans and Rad with 5yr 100K warrenty.
Click to expand...

:thumbsup: Good advice. I found the Nissan issue and more info on coolant in the trans. More or less GM info is to remove and rebuild the trans, replace/flush and test the cooler. Seals are ruined, frictions swell... Other sites are saying just a matter of time before it quits due to the contamination.

:Flush: So much for a simple radiator swap for the BD spool valve. I did not expect it to trash the transmission like this.
 
6.5L Running HOT?

WarWagon said:
The window screen is a restriction. Try a place you are running hot without the screen and see if it helps.

You have 2 delays with runaway temps. 1. getting the t-stat open. 2. Getting the fan thermal spring to move and then move the working fluid to allow clutch lockup. Your ECT will climb till the fan locks in.
Click to expand...

Hello,
If you would like my 2 cents worth about your Diesel heating UP, I can tell you from what I know. I was a trans calibrator for 4L80-E and interfaced with the 6.5L Boys for a number of years and on a few trips.
FYI.. Towing a load 180 stats will only delay the over heat, in my opinion. (Towing a load up hill for a long distance)
 
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