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leaking power steering fluid by master brake cylider

And now it will not even let me edit the message. I quit. I tried to make it right for you all to see the pictures. I used to know how to do it, but apparently picasa hosting is not the correct way. ????

The final link takes you to the photo album on Picassa.
 
I had to do this job on my truck about 8 months ago. I took it over to a friend's shop and the two of us got it done in about an hour and a half with very little bloodshed. We did cheat a little though... We removed the lower half of the dash and dropped the column to give better access.

Glad you got it done!
 
chefmike said:
And now it will not even let me edit the message. I quit. I tried to make it right for you all to see the pictures. I used to know how to do it, but apparently picasa hosting is not the correct way. ????

The final link takes you to the photo album on Picassa.
Click to expand...

no worries Mike...I fixed them for you...:thumbsup:
 
Chefmike's post should be moved to the how to section and stand on it's own. This is a 10 on a scale of 10 PIA job. I'd almost rather change the starter than a booster.

You may have the wrong booster installed if it was missing a return line. The brake systems come in 2 flavors for 8 lug. A light duty system and a heavy duty 8600 LB (1 ton) system both used on 3/4 ton trucks. There are two different boosters available. I think the Suburban 2500's all had the heavy duty systems. Vin "F" is usually the 8600 rated system. Sounds like you have the wrong part: light duty booster from the store to replace the factory heavy duty booster.

The heavy duty system is higher priced and has JD7 in the glove box codes. Brake lines are different, rotors are different...
 
Oreillys this was the same one napa gave me. I specified jd7, 8600 gvw. I looked at what he looked up, as i had looked it up at home. Bummer if I screwed it. I figured they had changed something, getting the same thing twice.
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/A1C0/527336/01305.oap?year=1995&make=Chevrolet&model=C2500%2BSuburban%2BRWD&vi=1302545&ck=Search_01305_1302545_1765&pt=01305&ppt=C0066
If you look at the picture here, It is missing the gold line that goes from the port above the drivers side pressure line to the return port. This same piece is pictured on the jd6 unit. Ironically, the jd6 costs more and has a higher core fee. .???

How else could I differentiate the two boosters? What would my limitations be? I may be willing to accept the limitations if I can expect safe functioning within lower limits.

Thoughts?
 
Maybe this part has to be transferred? Looks like a bleeder or something. If you have 3 lines return, pressure from pump, and pressure to steering box you should be good. I'll look and see if my 1995 has it, but I doubt it.
 
I'm leaking fluid all over the cab. I slowed it down a bit with some sealer as a temporary fix, as I don't have time to stop. I looked up at the snap ring, bolts, rod, and the rest of what prevents me from just grabbing hold of this part and ripping it out and giving it a drop kick into the Atlantic Ocean. That being said looks like an easy job even for a novice. I wouldn't let the position of the booster intimidate you. One step at a time and keep your tools and the parts you remove orderly and clean so you don't get overwhelmed. I might just pull it and replace the o ring on the rod, I might even try it without removing the booster. We'll see how that goes.
 
Mine leaked for a long time and replaced everything on recent repower. Like earlier poster stated, it is that clip that is the literal pain in neck bloody hand lots of cursing and time. Rest is easy. I was thinking of the rebuild thing and after the clip thing I got the unit for fear of rebuild failure and dealing with clip. I still don't think my truck stops right and gonna replace hoses with stainless dot hoses. I retro fitted my FSJ Jeep with astrovan hydro and I would be thrown through window with amount of pedal used in my truck.
 
Well I looked at the exploded view of the booster, it looks like you'll almost need a steril environment to rebuild the part. I've read a bunch of horror stories regarding brakes locking up. The fluid is leaking where the pedal rid rides in and out. That could be one o ring or all the seals. Ill have too sleep on it. If the kit was local and a little less money I'd take the shot. I know one thing I'm getting sick of pouring $22 dollar Lucus stop leak into a brand new GM p/s pump.
 
Just did this yesterday and it was about a 2 hour job. Most difficult/time consuming part of the job was removing the nut that was right above the steering column. I luckily had gear wrenches but it still took a while. Question though, I replaced mine with a rebuild from O'reilly's and according to my sticker required a JD6 unit which I went and ordered. When I received it I could tell that under the black finish they use on EVERYTHING, the accumulator is colored blue whereas my original unit was a gold color. What is the difference? Either way, I'm keeping the original and rebuilding it so that I have a ready part to install when it comes time again since it took my local O'reilly's a week to get it in. Thanks for this post guys! It really helped a lot!

By the way, there is an adjustable switch that is close to the base of the steering column that controls when your reverse lights come on when you move your shifter lever to your reverse position. I accidentaly adjusted mine and crossed my fingers that it wasn't something too important but then realized at night that I had no reverse lights when I was backing into my driveway. DING LIGHTBULB!
 
jabisso said:
Awesome post Thank You! how many $'s did you have into it?
Click to expand...
Welcome to the forum Jabisso.
This thread is from 2013 and I dont know when the last time the last poster had been posting in the forum.
You might try beginning a new thread with all of the questions You might have and, I am sure that the number of responses would increase greatly.
 
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