Leaking Hydroboost Brake Booster

[Bigburban]

While we are on the subject......I have no leaks and my hydro boost is a few years old but I get a pulsing feeling in the brakes every now and then? new calipers rotors and brakes also done. Any sugestions? Or normal?

 

[dangerousdave]

Purge the power steering / hydroboost system.
I use the best power steering fluid I can afford, clear. I know i posted or read the full procedure before, but it's been a while.

Basicaly, disconnect the return line(low pressure) that runs from the hydroboost to the P/S reservior.
Plug the reservior return hole to prevent fluid loss.
Connect a longer transparent hose to the return outlet at the hydroboost and run it into a bucket. Siphon, vacuum, or use a baster to remove as much old fluid from the reservior as possible, fill with new fluid.
Start the engine.
With an assistant at the steering wheel moving it back and forth, lock to lock, and pressing the brake pedal intermittently, keep adding new p/s fluid until the return line runs clear.
Reconnect the return line and top off the reservior to the line.

If the PO had done this once a year, I doubt the h/boost seal would have ever leaked.

 

[nealpellecchia]

Purge the power steering / hydroboost system.
I use the best power steering fluid I can afford, clear. I know i posted or read the full procedure before, but it's been a while.

Basicaly, disconnect the return line(low pressure) that runs from the hydroboost to the P/S reservior.
Plug the reservior return hole to prevent fluid loss.
Connect a longer transparent hose to the return outlet at the hydroboost and run it into a bucket. Siphon, vacuum, or use a baster to remove as much old fluid from the reservior as possible, fill with new fluid.
Start the engine.
With an assistant at the steering wheel moving it back and forth, lock to lock, and pressing the brake pedal intermittently, keep adding new p/s fluid until the return line runs clear.
Reconnect the return line and top off the reservior to the line.

If the PO had done this once a year, I doubt the h/boost seal would have ever leaked.

aahh, the thing was leaking so much and then on hoses removal a lot syphon'd out I think. so it's been purging for months with constant adding of new stuff. I wiped out the black off the bore area where it collects the most, put new in the grove and cyl parts and then filled it with new. I don't have a floor jack so I just turned the wheel side to side...a little at first, and kept an eye on the fluid level- engine running cap off.

 

[Chevy350]

Spring retainer tool

yeah and he even called me back to tell me how to make a special tool too put the final spring retainer on in the front!! couldn't have done it with out it.

Can you show a pic of the tool or give a description of it and the steps to removing and replacing the retainer?
Thanks

 

[nealpellecchia]

Can you show a pic of the tool or give a description of it and the steps to removing and replacing the retainer?
Thanks

yeah, it's just a square sawed piece of plastic pipe about the right size so you can equally push the retainer in until it sits in the grove. still a bit difficult.

 

[nealpellecchia]

mine still is not leaking over 10,000 miles... now maybe you can help me people. Rebuilt starter has been a problem. I thought that I had it figured out to be only the ignition switch because I could go through the wheel well with a screwdriver and cross those terminals to make it crank. But all of a sudden I get a weak spark there and it won't crank sometimes. A friend and I got it to fail with the key held in the start position and then he rapped the starter a bit with a hammer until it cranked! So you think it's the starter motor or is it the solenoid contacts. Is the armature hitting the field and getting hung up? it always starts again after waiting sometimes a long time or maybe from moving the tilt wheel to straight from the up position. I see oil leaking around it so maybe the case is cooling and getting smaller to hit the hotter expanded armature? If so was I just lucky enough to jump the terminals like 20 times in a row in getting it to start? Do I have two problems, the switch and the starter??

I resisted taking it back to the poor guy who did take it down once to put on a new solenoid which gave good results for about 4 months. I tried to save "his" starter but now it may be a rebuild issue after all. That first starter he gave me would run on a little after starting making that sound like it needed to be shimmed. It's a non-shimmed starter. It even got hung up one time attached to the flywheel and turning with the engine for several seconds before he put the new solenoid on. The old starter never clicked but drew a lot of current in the last several days...and maybe burnt the ignition switch terminals??? Help anyone! 6.5 1993 diesel. And ...the 3 cheap replacement heater cores have corroded in the same place by the smaller tube... last only a few months.

 

[ak diesel driver]

make sure you buy a good quality selenoid not the cheap $30 chinese ones. I got mine thru Romaine Electric and it cost $60 and was made in Brazil. (it's the one they recommended)