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leaking fuel from engine

nealpellecchia

Active Member
Messages
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41
Location
Visalia, Ca.
I still feel wet fuel under the filter housing...6.5 tbd 1993. I replaced the o rings twice. second time with dealer ones. cleaned the bottom seal well before sealing tight. new hoses to injector pump. new clamps. suspicious 3/8 input hose...end getting bigger. was gonna buy a pump and give it 10 lbs of pressure and look for leaks. but that won't include that input hose if I take it off. yeah I know i can do it some other way but decided to get it running at night with a good narrow flashlight and look very closely at the lines and yank on them a bit to get it to leak. I hope. runs great when started. tired of reving it so high cold to clear out the lines of air. tried to just activate the pump, with the bleed loose, by energizing the sysyem through several electrical spots but the light would at best be dim? using a test light to make the connection. but maybe that was the pump taking most of the juice. anyway it never gave me fuel out the top of the bleeder to avoid all the cranking. I almost replaced the pump again but decided to just start like normal and the pump flow is fine. any leads.
 
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Did you check the water sensor for being cracked or warped?.
There is an 0 ring under that too,was it replaced?
When you replace the bottom 0 ring you have to hold the heater element stationary to the bowl and tighten only the ring nut to prevent the 0 ring from twisting and distorting wich could cause leaking right from the bat
 
Make sure the bleeder valve is closed tightly and the filter retainer needs a little snug using a filter plier.
 
Did you check the water sensor for being cracked or warped?.
There is an 0 ring under that too,was it replaced?
When you replace the bottom 0 ring you have to hold the heater element stationary to the bowl and tighten only the ring nut to prevent the 0 ring from twisting and distorting wich could cause leaking right from the bat

it is!!! but it didn't seem to be leaking. I was gonna put epoxy on it. the o rings seemed to be definitely leaking. I held my fingers on the two outputs and blew into it and all seemed sealed. I know that ain't enough. I will look closely at that water sensor that seems separate from the surface cracks on the inside. cracked a bit under the wires. it cost 170.00 or something. I feel like a little leaking isn't what causes the problem though. I saw the little o ring leaking before I replaced it. I remember just handling the filter after it was unbolted a bit stopped the problem for a few days. I think it's the input line end from the fuel tank. but thanks for the good advice! I find out later.
 
Did you ever figure it out?

Is there a weep hole on the IP? Can the heater go bad and leak? I just replaced the heater Oring with a dealer one (needed it fast). And still have a diesel leak. New filter and about 3-4 psi fuel pressure at idle between IP and manager.

New fuel line to drain and good hose to IP screw hose clamps on lines. What are other sources for a leak to leak down bellhousing area? I guess the return line. What else?

Truck runs fine and starts good but drips diesel fuel if you let it idle.
 
Grrrr just went out and checked (left truck running while I posted) and now see shiney wet on the front of the IP below either the inlet hose barb or the fuel shut off solenoid.

I guess I'll replace IP inlet hose. Then degrease it blow it off and let it idle again and see what accumulates.

I have the fuel shutoff solenoid with the "allen head" or female hex.

Have many had the fuel shut off solenoid start to leak? I take it its just buy a new one and replace it if that is the culprit.
 
Grrrr just went out and checked (left truck running while I posted) and now see shiney wet on the front of the IP below either the inlet hose barb or the fuel shut off solenoid.

I guess I'll replace IP inlet hose. Then degrease it blow it off and let it idle again and see what accumulates.

I have the fuel shutoff solenoid with the "allen head" or female hex.

Have many had the fuel shut off solenoid start to leak? I take it its just buy a new one and replace it if that is the culprit.

I would just cut a 1/2" off.
I had one that was loose.
It might have a failed 0 ring.
 
Did you ever figure it out?

Is there a weep hole on the IP? Can the heater go bad and leak? I just replaced the heater Oring with a dealer one (needed it fast). And still have a diesel leak. New filter and about 3-4 psi fuel pressure at idle between IP and manager.

New fuel line to drain and good hose to IP screw hose clamps on lines. What are other sources for a leak to leak down bellhousing area? I guess the return line. What else?

Truck runs fine and starts good but drips diesel fuel if you let it idle.

I have and oil leak there I think. It's below where the speed sensor is mounted behind and to the right of the mgr. I think that's what it is. Are you sure it's fuel? Or, the depression regulator by the turbo ...pcv valve... leaks oil too...in that area your talking. But the mgr bottom o ring is a cheap plastic screw on that doesn't get replaced every yr. like the fuel filter does. It was quite deteriorated after 300,000 miles and contaminated with sand on mine. Remove the hole thing and you'll see that it's hard to re-tighten and the threads need to be cleaned good before yo screw it on with new o ring.

I'm in the middle or end of my starter problem but when it started yesterday the little hose clamps "injector clamps" put on the return hose on top have held up. I never had dripping fuel there. I put it on where I got stuck at the pumps out of town with my cheap clear hose.
I reached under the intake and did a good job of attaching the new fuel line there. It looked impossible to do at first. If you don't have the line at just the right length your gonna bend and put stress on that steel ip line when you bolt in the mgr. This could cause a leak.

The starter cable has turned into an attention to detail just when I didn't need any more details. In the past I put on these new replacement cables with that simple universal end easily on 6 cyl. models where you could see everything right in front of you or bend them to match the originals with no dangerously fastened cables touching the other terminals on the solenoid. It was so easy that you never thought of this job as dangerous. Remember, your gonna leave that very hot wire there!, and on a V8 diesel any change in that wiring could spark or even crank the engine with no means to turn itself off. I mean any V8 is hard to see the solenoid when it's in the car. When I went to re-attach the battery cables on top, when done, I heard a click and crank. good, but aaah, no good. I reached into the fender well and bent the cable end away from the S terminal a bit and thought fine. I drove it to the other end of town but I became very worried that all of a sudden it would click in.. it didn't. But the next day again I reattached the cables after leaving them off all night, to be safe, and click. oh man.. so I did my best bend and re-tighten job on the connector end at the solenoid B terminal and figured this was the best yet. Good I thought. so I got into the truck now ready to go to the store where I would leave it running, to be safe...other problem, and it starts and then keeps cranking.!!! Fortunately it stalled but I raced around the front with the wrench I kept handy to do the only thing to stop it,my mind racing, and did. After about 20-25 seconds of continued cranking, it felt cool to the touch right away. It once ran engaged for longer than that with the pinion gear stuck into the fly wheel so I think it's still OK. But, a lesson learned. Thank heavens it happened with me there... I might have to get a factory cable or crimp the old end on to the new cable. The bending it to match sticks out to the side more in this tight area. I need to see it very closely this time.

I don't know of a weep valve on the ip but so far I'm dodging the bill for a new one.
 
I am sure it was diesel as I could see the clearish fluid drop from the bellhousing and smell the fuel.

It hopefully was the IP inlet fuel hose. The hose clamp was pretty loose. So I just took it off and replaced it. A good while ago I ran a new line between filter and IP. I Tee'd into this new line between the filter and manager to install my fuel pressure guage. So I just replaced to the Tee. The other 1/2 of hose still looks real good.

I degreased it a bit cleaner and if it leaks should be able to tell fairly easily. I had let the engine get pretty grimey and this mislead me to chase the leak to the heater ORing.

The heater oring was hard set and probably seeping too it was dirty and grimey as you mentioned. I cleaned it up before reassemble. I'll post back in a few days my results.

Thanks.
 
Those FSOS with the 8 sided hole are prone to leak internally, I had to change one out.
 
I have been getting take off FFM, complete from the marine place, if they still have any in stock.

The fuel heater can get a pinhole and leak - mine did. Leaked through the wires as well.

The fuel shut off can also leak through the top. I replaced mine with a brass plug. They are the same thread as a faucet aerator.
 
I saw that in another thread and sent them an email this morning to see if any were available. I tried to call this morning but no answer guess they are closed Saturdays or were busy. I bought a take off coolant cross over from them a while back good parts .
 
I have been getting take off FFM, complete from the marine place, if they still have any in stock.

The fuel heater can get a pinhole and leak - mine did. Leaked through the wires as well.

The fuel shut off can also leak through the top. I replaced mine with a brass plug. They are the same thread as a faucet aerator.

my water sensor leaked at seal but it wasn't the problem with fuel bleed down. helped fuel pressure though.
 
I am sure it was diesel as I could see the clearish fluid drop from the bellhousing and smell the fuel.

It hopefully was the IP inlet fuel hose. The hose clamp was pretty loose. So I just took it off and replaced it. A good while ago I ran a new line between filter and IP. I Tee'd into this new line between the filter and manager to install my fuel pressure guage. So I just replaced to the Tee. The other 1/2 of hose still looks real good.

I degreased it a bit cleaner and if it leaks should be able to tell fairly easily. I had let the engine get pretty grimey and this mislead me to chase the leak to the heater ORing.

The heater oring was hard set and probably seeping too it was dirty and grimey as you mentioned. I cleaned it up before reassemble. I'll post back in a few days my results.

Thanks.

my water sensor leaked but it wasn't much. It wasn't the cure for the bigger problem of air in lines but it helped increase the fuel pressure and performance.
 
Not sure, if the water sensor leak then the fuel heater which is at the bottom have a bigger chance to leak.

The o-ring in the heater is a bigger and thinner, tends to be brittle faster, IMO.

Not to mention the hoses to/from the fuel filter manager.

Also, if you have already working in this section, you may want to get a threaded rod and raise the fuel filter so it is easier to see leaks.
Easier to route the hoses above the intake.
 
Not sure, if the water sensor leak then the fuel heater which is at the bottom have a bigger chance to leak.

The o-ring in the heater is a bigger and thinner, tends to be brittle faster, IMO.

Not to mention the hoses to/from the fuel filter manager.

Also, if you have already working in this section, you may want to get a threaded rod and raise the fuel filter so it is easier to see leaks.
Easier to route the hoses above the intake.
Or put it in on the fender like i did
 

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