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Lbz trans cooler line upgrades

dieselkidd04

dieselkidd04

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Messages
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Location
elburn illinois 60119
Wondering if anyone has any positive reviews on some of the trans cooler line upgrades out there? I am considering the deviant kit from alligator it seems to be a decent price and those jic fittings with parker hoses look alot better than the oem options. Thanks.
 
I was on another site and one member just recently had an awful experience with the fittings on the alligator hydraulic hoses, me, I would not install them as they put too much strain on the plastic radiator tank at the cooler fittings. Their is a good archive thread dating back to 2007 on DieselPlace.

I have a full set of OEM lines in my garage waiting for the time to come when I will flare them and have a local hydraulic shop make the flexible sections.
 
If supported properly, I see no problem with that kit. I used AN hose for mine, and learned the hard way not all hose is created equal. you have to be CERTAIN the hose is rated for at least 325 degrees, or else it WILL fail. The fluid coming out of the pump to the cooler is roughly 80-100 degrees hotter than the fluid in the sump. I used some 250 degree hose figuring trans temps would never go above that, well at 210 I lost teh hose going from the trans to the radiator from excess heat. As to the loading, I could see that being an issue if the lines weren't supported. Just one more reason I like my SPECTRA radiator, it doesn't use those goofy fittings at the radiator.
 
I have onestarting to weep in front. I replaced the long return line with an "improved" OEM one a couple hundred thousand ago and haven't had trouble since.
 
Find a shop and have them replace the hose and re-crimped. Just had mine done for $50.00. Waiting for warmer days to put them in.


Tranny Line (Small).jpg
 
I found a 37 degree flare tool on Ebay and was going this route, so if they ever leak again I don't have to remove the whole line just the flexible section.
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Yeah probably Will. With warmer weather coming it'll probably stop. They were notorious for leaking in cold conditions but not in warmer weather
 
Thanks for all the good ideas guys, mine are leaking now leaving small spots on the driveway, i do make alot of hoses at work doing alot of hydraulic repairs so i figured i could maybe make my own hoses. I guess ill have to weigh my options here and update with the outcome.
 
btfarm said:
Gee, if you are successful at making any for the front I'll bet you would really make one of your favorite uncles smile if you just happened to make an extra set...
Click to expand...
Yes, and at his age, you never know when you may inherit. :p:D
 
I replaced mine way back in 2007, or around there. I had a hose shop make me up some SS braided hoses and I installed them by just cutting out the leaking OEM rubber and installing replacement hoses without removing the tubing. I used a small tubing cutter. Haven't had any issues since. :fingers crossed:

I think Tony Burkhard had a nice kit as well.
http://dirtyhookerdiesel.com/i-1490...air-kit-lbz-lmm-2006-2010-triple-an-line.html
 
basically there is little pressue on trans cooler hose
so just use a premium oil proof hyd hose
what does make a difference is easy bends and routing away from heat and rubbing
and size make a BIG difference (you can do the calcs of hose flow and bends and length)
Dodge went from 5/16 to 3/8 to half inch for a reason
half inch would be minimum
If you run an aftermarket cooler make sure the in and out are same size as hose
example
going from 3/8 to half inch dropped backpressure a by 45 pounds 15 for each hose and 15 eliminating the restrictive in radiator/ \winter fluid heater - BVVC doing this a hot climate only fix
or you can be sure to run cold weather fluid like quatrosyn
 
wyrmrider said:
basically there is little pressue on trans cooler hose
so just use a premium oil proof hyd hose
what does make a difference is easy bends and routing away from heat and rubbing
and size make a BIG difference (you can do the calcs of hose flow and bends and length)
Dodge went from 5/16 to 3/8 to half inch for a reason
half inch would be minimum
If you run an aftermarket cooler make sure the in and out are same size as hose
example
going from 3/8 to half inch dropped backpressure a by 45 pounds 15 for each hose and 15 eliminating the restrictive in radiator/ \winter fluid heater - BVVC doing this a hot climate only fix
or you can be sure to run cold weather fluid like quatrosyn
Click to expand...
The ALLISON 1000 can see 220 psi on the trans cooler lines, they are not a low pressure system. On average they only run 20-60 psi, but you must use a line rated for the cold pressure spikes. And you must also use a hose rated for at least 300 degrees as the cooler out flow can run 80-100 degrees above sump temp. I learned the hard way 250 degree hose will NOT work. And they use a -10 or 5/8" line.
 
Will L. said:
So if anything other than stock, run stainless tubing or high temp hydraulic hoses...
Not a place to try saving money. Like engine oil cooler hoses, if it blows you are spending thousands, so donit right the first time and invest wisely.
Click to expand...
The temps are why I believe stock fails so often. Allison's go through trans cooler lines faster than any other GM hose. I highly doubt GM ponied up for a synthetic hose capable of handling 325 degrees. Many blame it on poor crimps, but no other engine oil cooler line or trans line from GM fails as often and rapidly as Allison cooler lines.
 
Many people understand higher temps wear things out a bit faster, and lower the pressure capability a bit. I thought I understood it some until I started working around the oil& gas industry. When I saw the charts it really opened my eyes.
An SF 150 rating is entry level stuff. A 1” pipe that has the bolt on end cap (called a blind flange) weighs 2 lbs. while that isn’t crazy heavy, actually find something 2 lbs and feel it realizing it takes that much steel, with the sealing surface over 1/2” thick to be this minimum level.

At ambient temperatures that we experience daily, that can hold in 280 psi safely. Bump that up to just under 400f and it only holds 200 psi. That is nearing 1/3 of it’s capacity lost.
Next not applicable here at all but sets the melon gears to turning- Up to 800f and it cant even hold 80psi and at 1000f it only holds 20 psi! That is over 1/2” thick piece of flat steel.

Now, the pipe that the flange gets bolted to is schedule 40. So not as thick, just a hair over 1/8” thick steel.

The factory line trying to hold 220 psi at temps of 325f... if that were steel pipe used in an industrial setting, it would qualify, but barely... if it is being sf150 rated.

How thick is that line?! What is it made of and how is it connected?! Think it would be rated to use like that anywhere?! And what about vibration?! Haha-
Simply a case of barely built to make it through warranty most of the time and keep cost as low as possible.

Definitely something owners should consider upgrading the first weekend after the warranty expires.

I know the ratings and temps dont align exactly the same for different material and assembly process. But it sure give some folks (at least it did me) a concept of how bad temperatures really affect things.
 
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