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LBZ Problems... Lots of them.

Flyboy207

New Member
Messages
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Location
CA
Hey all, I bought a new truck, unmodified, and drove it all the way home from Texas, to find it needed the whole front end rebuilt, shocks, the cruise control doesn't work and it smokes like crazy, especially for being stock. :mad2: After replacing a clogged air filter, it got a little tiny bit better but it still lays clouds from stop signs. Idles fine, doesn't smoke without a load. I have the old MBRP 4" straight pipe off my old truck, but I'm reading that I should put in this "Finger Stick" thing and an EGR block plate before modifying any exhaust. I'm also planning on putting a new Banks Ram Air on it. I need advice on what to do with this thing, and any important things I should know, especially as I have to get it smogged soon. Any help is appreciated, thanks.
 
The stock Lbz air box is plenty good. You can change the exhaust w/o changing the egr or doing a fingers ticket. Efi live will take care of the egr codes when you do the blocker plate.

Sent from my Milestone X2 using Tapatalk 2
 
I didn't catch how many miles you have on your LBZ? Try and take the truck out on the highway and roll into the pedal. Sometimes they just need a good clearing out of the shit in the tubes. :D
 
Change the fuel filter too and put some good additive in the tank like Power Service silver bottle. THEN wring it out good.
 
It has 179,000 miles on it. And I'm glad to know I've been doing the right thing, because I changed the fuel filter and have been running the silver power service stuff. Does someone have to be a specialist in EFI live to program the truck? And I think I'm going to do the Banks airbox anyway if not simply because the stock box is cracked.
 
Get an S&B dry filter intake if you want to change it out, and send me your old one as I'll fix it and sell it. Got 2 trucks right now that I'm looking for an LBZ airbox for. EFILIVE does have a bit of a learning curve to it, but it isn't that bad once you get the hang of it. Get the truck fixed FIRST before you even think of tuning it. To many people here lately seem to think a tune will fix there running issue, and end up making the problem ALOT worse.
 
So You think I should get a dry filter in the S&B instead of the cotton one? Why is that?
 
Make sure not to run an oiled air filter, run a dry one. Oiled air filters and GM MAF sensors don't play well together.
 
Oiled cotton gauze band aid air filters don't stop the fine dirt from getting through and need to be cleaned way more often then they claim. You are better off simply removing the air filter completely and saving the oily mess of running the oiled garbage. Other than some large boulders the oiled stuff doesn't stop much of what matters. But they do screw up the MAF on everything and IAC motors on gas engines.

The dry filters are the answer to the $hitty oiled filter lack of filtering performance and were developed specifically because people learned the hard way about the oiled stuff.
 
Well there are some DMax guys that swear by their K&N oiled filters that give them 50 or more extra horsepower over the stock LBZ one and take serious offense to those of us that are non believers. Many arguments via keyboard back in the day.
 
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