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LBZ Glow Plug Replacement
- Thread starter saratoga
- Start date
- Staff
- #22
Yuck.
From what I heard it's usually carbon build up that causes the tips to break off. We have 2 GMC's with Duramax engines, strictly round town vehicles. We had one that a glow plug snapped off when trying to remove it,almost 6k later is was back on the road ! I think if the engine gets worked, the less likely of massive carbon build up and a higher success rate of failed gp removal.. The shop that did the work on the our work truck said he had never seen as much carbon build up in an engine ,it was literally balled up and rolling around !
- Staff
- #24
Well. Got PO678 a couple of days ago. Another glow plug change. 
btfarm
America First!
# 8 should be pretty easy Jeff.
- Staff
- #26
Glow plug #8 cylinder
I take it that is next to the firewall, driver's side?
Wow. Glow plug #8 is a bear of a job for anyone with big arms. I could not fit my Portuguese arms between or around the hoses an lines. Very difficult for me. More of a fitment issue with my body. Once in there, it took less than 5 minutes to replace. Anyone with skinny arms should have no problems. I had to take off wheel and fender liner to do it. Cleared the codes and good to go. If I get another one, I will get 8 and replace them all and keep these (# 5 and #8) for spares.
**Also be sure to clean out the little spot inside the fender corner that fills up with all dirt and gunk that just causes corrosion and rot. **
I take it that is next to the firewall, driver's side?
Wow. Glow plug #8 is a bear of a job for anyone with big arms. I could not fit my Portuguese arms between or around the hoses an lines.
Very difficult for me. More of a fitment issue with my body. Once in there, it took less than 5 minutes to replace. Anyone with skinny arms should have no problems. I had to take off wheel and fender liner to do it. Cleared the codes and good to go. If I get another one, I will get 8 and replace them all and keep these (# 5 and #8) for spares. **Also be sure to clean out the little spot inside the fender corner that fills up with all dirt and gunk that just causes corrosion and rot. **
Last edited:
RYDNHI4X4
Halt Halt Or I'll Release My Dog
Anybody change the #4 plug yet?
Pepperidge
Member Advocate
btfarm
America First!
AHA! I see today that I've joined the #4 GP code crowd. Just did #6 a couple of weeks ago. I'll have to see about ordering 3 this time and replace 2,4, & 8 while the fender liner is off. Use 2 & 8 as spares. Probably ought to order 7 of 'em. Too damn hot in the shop to replace them right now anyhow.
btfarm
America First!
Replaced #s 2, 4, & 8 Today
I replaced the culprit (#4) today and since #6 was done 2 months ago and while the fender liner was down, I did #2 & #8. #8 was as easy as #6 with being able to get ahold of it with a 3/8 drive ratchet, 6" ext, u-joint & 12mm deepwell. All the connectors came off pretty easy with a 1/4" drive nut driver, 4" ext, u-joint & 5/16" (or 8mm) std socket. #s 2 & 4 weren't so easy to get to though. It required a 1/4" ratchet and deep 12mm. Also, my arthritic hands needed some leverage to get enough torque. All in all not bad though and only about an hour job taking it leisurely this morning. Good for another 200k on the left bank...
Tools I needed:
#4 Location
Fitting the Ratchet, 12mm and cheater in there
#6 is clearly visible and #2 is just behind the end of the cheater.
I replaced the culprit (#4) today and since #6 was done 2 months ago and while the fender liner was down, I did #2 & #8. #8 was as easy as #6 with being able to get ahold of it with a 3/8 drive ratchet, 6" ext, u-joint & 12mm deepwell. All the connectors came off pretty easy with a 1/4" drive nut driver, 4" ext, u-joint & 5/16" (or 8mm) std socket. #s 2 & 4 weren't so easy to get to though. It required a 1/4" ratchet and deep 12mm. Also, my arthritic hands needed some leverage to get enough torque. All in all not bad though and only about an hour job taking it leisurely this morning. Good for another 200k on the left bank...
Tools I needed:
#4 Location
Fitting the Ratchet, 12mm and cheater in there
#6 is clearly visible and #2 is just behind the end of the cheater.
- Staff
- #31
Hey! What gives here? I just got back from my trip, and now the #1 glow plug coding? I will buy 8 of them and replace them all while I have everything apart. I will use the 2 that I had already replaced not too long ago for spares. I wonder why these are popping in the summer? Maybe the short heat cycle for a quick burst is too much? :???:
btfarm
America First!
As a positive, I'll bet the right bank is easier. Funny though that this year is full og GP failures and it's nearly the hottest on record...hmmmmm :dunno:
Rock Auto had them to me on Saturday after I ordered them Wed night. They were the best price I found for the 61g and with our 5% off code I don't think they can be beat.
Rock Auto had them to me on Saturday after I ordered them Wed night. They were the best price I found for the 61g and with our 5% off code I don't think they can be beat.
3500GMC
What T F, over
The dmax don't even really 'need' a glow cycle do they? Hot OR cold...?
btfarm
America First!
Not in summer but in winter it is. Problem is the code you get will not go away so you have to stare at the MIL until you replace the faulty GP even though you really don't need it this time of year. A thermostatic cutoff for the GP controller would be nice. Say 45* and lower you have them but not above.
- Staff
- #35
I ordered all 8 new glow plugs from Rock Auto and used the 5% discount code. :thumbsup: Like getting the shipping for free. Just got them in today. I will keep the 3 (8, 5, & 1) that I already replaced for backups, and put all 8 new glow plugs in. It seemed that I was getting a glow plug code one at a time for a few months. Once apart, it is easier to change them all out. I did not want to get these codes in the winter and have to do these then, so I opted to change all of them on my terms.
I still wonder it seems like I was getting 1 a month. In the summer, when the plugs do not even cycle? I will put the "bad" ones on an OHM's meter and see what they meter out at just for shits and giggles.
I still wonder it seems like I was getting 1 a month. In the summer, when the plugs do not even cycle? I will put the "bad" ones on an OHM's meter and see what they meter out at just for shits and giggles.
- Staff
- #36
Well, I replaced all of my glow plugs today. The passenger side was done in less than 5 minutes. The driver's side was not as easy. I jacked up the truck and took the front wheels off, and removed the fender liner. I would say that #4 was the most difficult for me. I could not get at it with the tools I had at all. AND I tried every different way possible, twice. :mad2:
I subsequently removed the cold air intercooler pipe, and had to remove the steering shaft in order for me to get to #4. I also broke off one of the little nuts that holds the wire on. I was able to use a pair of vice grips and unscrew the threaded part of the bolt and save the nut, thankfully. Seeing that this is a Sunday, and tomorrow is a holiday, I was sweating it a little. I thank my dad for showing me many years ago how to save and salvage parts. I see now that he taught me more than I will ever know. In any event, all 8 glow plugs have been changed. I have numbers 8, 5, and 1 that I had already replaced not to long ago. And I saved the rest of the originals for spares. Hopefully this will end my glow plug issues. Not a big deal, but I hate looking at that light while driving around. Cleared the code PO671, and good to go! :thumbsup:
I checked the bad glow plug, #1 with the Ohm's meter. I got a crazy reading, that was way over 1 Ohm (342). I also checked the rest of the glow plugs that were good. They all metered out at less than 1 Ohm.
I subsequently removed the cold air intercooler pipe, and had to remove the steering shaft in order for me to get to #4. I also broke off one of the little nuts that holds the wire on. I was able to use a pair of vice grips and unscrew the threaded part of the bolt and save the nut, thankfully. Seeing that this is a Sunday, and tomorrow is a holiday, I was sweating it a little. I thank my dad for showing me many years ago how to save and salvage parts. I see now that he taught me more than I will ever know. In any event, all 8 glow plugs have been changed. I have numbers 8, 5, and 1 that I had already replaced not to long ago. And I saved the rest of the originals for spares. Hopefully this will end my glow plug issues. Not a big deal, but I hate looking at that light while driving around. Cleared the code PO671, and good to go! :thumbsup:
I checked the bad glow plug, #1 with the Ohm's meter. I got a crazy reading, that was way over 1 Ohm (342). I also checked the rest of the glow plugs that were good. They all metered out at less than 1 Ohm.
DieselSlug
Well-Known Member
Wow. Totally opposite for the 6.5, the drivers side is pie but the passenger side is tougher. Good to hear your all set for this winter!
- Staff
- #38
Thanks. Driver's side has the intercooler pipe and steering shaft in the way, as well as brake lines and wiring harnesses. Passenger side is wide open on the Duramax's. Go figure.
DieselSlug
Well-Known Member
Im debating un-threading my glow plugs and re-apply never sieze. They are looking crusty already from 3 winters. Will make that inevitable day that i have to replace them again a little better. How big are your guys' plugs?
btfarm
America First!
Jeff, If you had a 1/4 drive ratchet with 12mm deep socket you would have had it pretty quick. See post #30 above.
Yeah I know... too late.
Yeah I know... too late.