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Knew it was coming,

Pruittx2

Pruittx2

Been around a bit
Messages
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Location
Lake Odessa, Mi
Hi fellas,,, well tis the season, for the snow in the area. Manual transfer case,, 480e.
Got a bit of snow lately, and when I engage the 4x4, I get the vibration over 20 mph. and the creakin in the turns,, that I only normally hear from my knees. So I'm guessing new CV shafts on ea side, and a new Front drive shaft. Now,,

Have you greased yours lately?,, mine wasn't', and I'll be having to cut it in half to get it out. No torch's,, but with the pretty good set up of tools over 25+yrs body shop work, I can't get that rascal to collapse to save my soul.

You know, how much fun it is to figure out what you need, for these. TON's of info at many sites, but they all fall short.

Here's what I got, I'll lose out on the core charge ($53) by killing it, but it's the only way.


CARDONE® 66-1052 - Front Driver Side CV Axle Shaft
Price: $54.15
Delivery: $7.95

Total: $62.10

CARDONE® 66-1052 - Front Passenger Side CV Axle Shaft
Price: $54.15
Delivery: FREE
Total: $54.15

CARDONE® 65-9362 - Remanufactured Front Driveshaft
GMC Suburban 4L80-E Transmission 4WD 1995-1996,
Price: $208.05
Make: GMC
Model: Suburban

Then I grabbed a new stabilizer bar end link kit. I'm told taking those out makes it easier to slip in axle. So 191300 miles, is a good time to get all this in, and get back in shape. Maybe I'll get some pics up, the Sat, when I get too it. Cheers
 
Make sure the new parts fits before you ruin the current one. Because if it wasn't for bad luck of, I dunno, oddball propshaft size for whatever reason or supplier "one size doesn't fit ANYTHING"...
 
schiker said:
Who sells Supertech? Is that a house brand?
Click to expand...

Sorry, that was a posting error. I believe was Surtrak by Trakmotive:

http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=3856881&cc=1353406&jsn=487

rockauto certainly has cut down the available options on these. Main reason for my post was to avoid Cardone. I've used them and the boots lasted less than 2 years. Second point was to go with new and to not mess with reman units. The hassle and cost of shipping cores does not justify the minimal savings. Good news is that these CV axles are dirt cheap and they're easy to replace.
 
I've tried what I have to try with,,, But was worried about breaking something on either end that is way more expensive to replace. Also thought I'd put something on the new cv boots, to protect them, or make up water repellent for a small while anyway. Parts to arrive Fri eve,, then off to the pole barn, to run heaters for an hr or so to melt away, the bad weather, and dry/warm things up a bit. Nothing worse that getting under a truck that wants to pee on you! Wish I had a hoist. But Ramps, Jacks and stands will have to do,, and I guess I'll do oil change and rotate tires while I'm at it.
 
Pruittx2 said:
I've tried what I have to try with,,, But was worried about breaking something on either end that is way more expensive to replace. Also thought I'd put something on the new cv boots, to protect them, or make up water repellent for a small while anyway. Parts to arrive Fri eve,, then off to the pole barn, to run heaters for an hr or so to melt away, the bad weather, and dry/warm things up a bit. Nothing worse that getting under a truck that wants to pee on you! Wish I had a hoist. But Ramps, Jacks and stands will have to do,, and I guess I'll do oil change and rotate tires while I'm at it.
Click to expand...
Some silicone spray that dries without leaving an oily residue might help to protect the CV joints and keepum flexible.
 
UPDATE:

How mad is the maddest you've ever been? Well that was me yesterday. I had my suspicions about the updated version of the driveshaft. I order per the vehicle specs,, and NOT of what the part looked like. Cause we all know that web sites will use the same driveshaft pic, for 33 different vehicles. Well,,, by the pic would of been better.

Turns out the driveshaft listed for the 480lE is about 2 hairs longer, that what is in my truck. $202 plus 53 core. And it's the wrong part. So since I cut out the old one,,, and now have No 4x4 here in snowy Michigan,,, and I plow a few local businesses, I'm kinda mad. SO I call the NAPA store,,, sure we got one. 35 miles away. Oh and it's $306 plus $60 core.
Freaking Awesome.

Now on the front CV axles. You just unbolt those 6 bolts on the diff housing,, undo the bit 36mm bolt, and slide it out.

^^^^^ My Ass you do!! ^^^^^ it like about 1 inch of being able to pivot out of that area,, no matter what I did,, suspension hanging,,, pressure under arm to lift it up,, heck even cussin and swearing didn't help. I dicked with that thing for and hr,, busted up 1 knuckle and smashed 1 thumb. Piss on it. I put it all back together, minus the front drive shaft, and went home. took wife and kids on road trip to go get 2nd drive shaft and dinner.


Heres a pic of what everyone that sells these things say's fit's our trucks with 480 and the one that came out of my truck,,, that looks surprisingly just like the one napa sells that says fits a 460.
39638-5dd44c46c43b7c3672077636472917de.jpg



today, I'll slip under truck and put the NAPA unit in. Not sure what I'll do about the CV's yet.
 

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had those out with new kit in hand. just couldn't get that plate to slide past the last 1in off the other plate. So to speak.
with out hitting the Cntl Arm on left front left side. Also hitting was the inner tierod assem. I know it's like a puzzle, where you have to find that one spot where it slips out, but i'll be damned if I could get it. Seem's a hoist would be the ticket for this older man.
 
I remember installing new CV axles into the 93 K1500, I thought I`d be able to squeakum in there, NOT ! ! ! !
I tink the sway bar link needed to come off, maybe the shock too. If I rememer correctly, the right side needed to be dismantled more than the left, been quite a while ago.
 
Unbolt the swaybar from both end links so you can rotate it as needed to clear the outer CV/splined stub shaft. After the inner bolts and the outer axle nut have been removed, turn the steering wheel full crank towards the side you want to remove (ie, full to lock right to remove the passenger side shaft). Push the inner flange slightly towards the outer CV joint, then slip it forward and down. Now pull the shaft and splined stub out from the hub and rotate that end under the swaybar and out. Installation is the reverse. Rotate the outer CV end up under the swaybar. Slip the nose of the splined stub into the hub and bottom it while swinging the flange end up and in as you slide in parallel with the transaxle flange.

I pulled both shafts on my Burb when I completely rebuilt the steering, as it gave me so much more clearance when I replaced the idler arm and bracket, center link, etc.
 
That's great Husker,, thanks. I'm gonna hold off on doing them, till the weather is better, or I have more time off. Mine aren't now as bad as I thought. most of the noise was coming from the bad ujoints in the fr driveshaft.
 
Pruittx2 said:
That's great Husker,, thanks. I'm gonna hold off on doing them, till the weather is better, or I have more time off. Mine aren't now as bad as I thought. most of the noise was coming from the bad ujoints in the fr driveshaft.
Click to expand...
Be sure the slip yoke is not sloppy. At a shop near here I seen two transfer cases with the front output hosing busted plumb off, cases busted and chain exposed. I asked the guy that owns the shop, whats up with that ? He told Me, sloppy slip yokes had been vibrating and eventually breaks them off.
Slip yoke on mine had a lot of slop and a vibration, it now is not on there and a new one is installed. Vibration is gone, and I had recently installed a new u-Joint too on the old one. LOL
 
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