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Kick down cable rl700,83 chevy scottsdale

ak diesel driver said:
Bowtie overdrive. The article is from they're website
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Okay,I thought that was who you were talking about but didn't know you could just buy one from them like that. I'm very Leary of this type trans.i like the overdrive feature but if I could afford a new one I might go back with a 350 or 400 turbo. Everyone I've talked to about it talks like it's basically delicate. I've only driven it twice but I fear I've already done damage to it.
 
If it's been driven much at all without tbe TV cable connected, you might as well put a fork in it, she's done. With the cable disconnected you only get about 40-50 psi of line pressure. Many times people swap carbs and get one without the tv cable attachment point. The TV cable must be connected abd hooked up so it has the correct throw. Too much/little throw and line pressure will not rise correctly. Also the TV cable controls shift pressure that causes it to shift. With it disconnected you should get VERY soft early shifts as governor pressure will almost immediately overcome shift pressure. As to the 700r4, it's not a bad trans, but early model's(pre 86 iirc) had some known issues. The later model 700r4/4l60(not the E version) was a much improved version.
 
Scottsdale 83 said:
Does this constant pressure valve body attach to the inside or outside of the transmission?really sounds like something I should look into. I attached the cable in the proper spot and even with the throttle completely closed I still lack about two inches reaching the hookup on the throttle. I've had more Chevys than I can count over the years and have never encountered or heard of this problem.what I wouldn't give to have a good ole 350 turbo or powerglide right now.lol
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The valve body is inside the transmission pan and the constant pressure unit is costly then there are two (2) different styles depending on the transmission build date. FYI "It will not correct anything on a damaged transmission."

The constant pressure unit eliminates the common throttle valve (TV) cable related failures.........
 
FellowTraveler said:
The valve body is inside the transmission pan and the constant pressure unit is costly then there are two (2) different styles depending on the transmission build date. FYI "It will not correct anything on a damaged transmission."

The constant pressure unit eliminates the common throttle valve (TV) cable related failures.........
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But you still need a TV cable or vacuum modulator for it to shift correctly(so e way to alter shift vs governor pressure). I'm not a fan of constant pressure mods myself. It gives you max line pressure all the time. It's fine for a performance/limited use application, but asking for trouble imo for a daily driver. Not to mention as line pressure goes up, cooler flow goes down as cooler flow is largely the fluid the pressure reg dumps.
 
As FERM points out there are drawbacks to this mod which he identifies in an easy to understand method....as always FERM thanks for your professional input.

FERM with the TV cable adjustment being less critial w/constant pressure valve body do you know of any cooling mods to the regulator too counter this lower flow to cooler or is that another can of worms too?
 
Cooler flow is largely what is dumped from the main pressure regulator. There's no way to increase it without going to a higher volume pump or reducing pressure. When you increase the main pressure past a certain point, cooler flow will be reduced to reach the desired pressure. I know many are not fans, but electronically controlled transmissions are about the only way to have full control of pressure for durability, but still reduce it to maintain cooler flow.
 
THEFERMANATOR said:
Cooler flow is largely what is dumped from the main pressure regulator. There's no way to increase it without going to a higher volume pump or reducing pressure. When you increase the main pressure past a certain point, cooler flow will be reduced to reach the desired pressure. I know many are not fans, but electronically controlled transmissions are about the only way to have full control of pressure for durability, but still reduce it to maintain cooler flow.
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Great info as always FERM thanks..........
 
Scottsdale 83 said:
Does this constant pressure valve body attach to the inside or outside of the transmission?really sounds like something I should look into. I attached the cable in the proper spot and even with the throttle completely closed I still lack about two inches reaching the hookup on the throttle. I've had more Chevys than I can count over the years and have never encountered or heard of this problem.what I wouldn't give to have a good ole 350 turbo or powerglide right now.lol
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That might be the wrong bracket that the cable clamps into, that clamp might be for an older trans, TH350 or some such. Check at the auto salvage and see if there is a difference. Some brackets have a hole for the cruise control and right next to it, on the same bracket is the other opening for the TV cable. It attaches to the left side of the carb, drivers side. one position on the throttle arm will be for the TV cable and the other nub will be for the cruise control, if it has the stock carb on it.
 
MrMarty51 said:
That might be the wrong bracket that the cable clamps into, that clamp might be for an older trans, TH350 or some such. Check at the auto salvage and see if there is a difference. Some brackets have a hole for the cruise control and right next to it, on the same bracket is the other opening for the TV cable. It attaches to the left side of the carb, drivers side. one position on the throttle arm will be for the TV cable and the other nub will be for the cruise control, if it has the stock carb on it.
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Cruise control connects next to the accelerator cable as they both pull. The TV cable is pulled, so it connects 180 out from the accelerator cable on the bottom, or it connects directly opposite of the accelerator cable.
 
THEFERMANATOR said:
But you still need a TV cable or vacuum modulator for it to shift correctly(so e way to alter shift vs governor pressure). I'm not a fan of constant pressure mods myself. It gives you max line pressure all the time. It's fine for a performance/limited use application, but asking for trouble imo for a daily driver. Not to mention as line pressure goes up, cooler flow goes down as cooler flow is largely the fluid the pressure reg dumps.
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My cable is about 3 inches too short.can I extend it with another piece of cable or will that affect the shifting or transmission?
 
To clarify,it won't reach the carb.can I extend the end that attaches to the carb. The cable is too short.
 
Check to make sure the cable is routed correctly. Sounds like you have a v6 cable on a v8. New cables are not that expensive or hard to change. Problem is it sounds like your trans is already done, so hooking it up will not fix it at this point. Just one drive with the cable unhooked can fry a 700r4. It's the 1 thing you CANNOT mess around with. Misadjusted tv cables have messed up more 700r4's than anything else.
 
THEFERMANATOR said:
Check to make sure the cable is routed correctly. Sounds like you have a v6 cable on a v8. New cables are not that expensive or hard to change. Problem is it sounds like your trans is already done, so hooking it up will not fix it at this point. Just one drive with the cable unhooked can fry a 700r4. It's the 1 thing you CANNOT mess around with. Misadjusted tv cables have messed up more 700r4's than anything else.
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By saying it sounds like it's done you mean it's toast? It's still going through the gears and I've not been driving it. I drove it home from where I bought it and maybe 15-20 miles testing it after working on it. I was saying I may need a new one in earlier posts as a worse case scenario.do you think it's still going to go completely out?
 
The cable connects at the appropriate spot. It looks more like someone put a different carb on it.it could very well be a very well be a v6 cable.would it attach to the mount right if it were a v six cable?
 
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