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Is my 6.5 dead?

Sounds right to me. Clean the bolts and then the bolt holes with brake cleaner and a brush or rag on a probe of some sort.
If you can, a good quality bottoming tap is always a good idea for a thread chaser, but avoid the cheap taps and dies, they cut to much metal and ruin the hole. Even a bolt with v grooves cut up the sides works.
 
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Rodd said:
Since I have the dust cover off and one of the bolts are lose, I am thinking I should remove them all put blue loctite on and retorque. Anyone against this idea?
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Blue Loc-Tite will definitely not hurt anything.
The starter ring gear looks to be in very good condition.
On a V8 engine, there will be four places where the ring gear will wear more than other places. That is where the engine stops turning when a cylinder is coming up onto compression. a six cylinder engine, there will be three places.
 
Yes, use blue threadlocker on the TC bolts! I usually didn't till I had the one come loose and @THEFERMANATOR mentioned it's a good idea. Of course I wrote it off to the high performance setup... I always use threadlocker on the crank to flexplate bolts. Inspect the bolt that was hitting as it may be worn or damaged in the thread area including the converter threads.

Wasn't rubbing on the rock guard converter cover?
 
WarWagon said:
Yes, use blue threadlocker on the TC bolts! I usually didn't till I had the one come loose and @THEFERMANATOR mentioned it's a good idea. Of course I wrote it off to the high performance setup... I always use threadlocker on the crank to flexplate bolts. Inspect the bolt that was hitting as it may be worn or damaged in the thread area including the converter threads.

Wasn't rubbing on the rock guard converter cover?
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Didn't look like it hit the cover. The bolt head doesn't appear to be worn even though it was rubbing on the old starter as it went around. The starter area where it wore off was aluminum. The bolt looks like a grade 8. Pretty tough.
 
Thanks everyone for the assistance. Hopefully this is all it is.

One other thing I noticed is the cross over pipe on it is different than my 98 and 99 sub's. Also the driver side bolts right in to the header and the passenger side uses nuts and bolts.
 
Rodd said:
Thanks everyone for the assistance. Hopefully this is all it is.

One other thing I noticed is the cross over pipe on it is different than my 98 and 99 sub's. Also the driver side bolts right in to the header and the passenger side uses nuts and bolts.
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PO probably swapped the cross over at some point and used exhaust studs vs bolts. I tried to do the studs on both sides but had clearance issues with them on one side (can't remember which). Be sure to use some copper coat on them since they are/were out. Things are prone to shearing off when a few years go by. I had to Heli-coil the ones on my old engine when that happened.
 
Paveltolz said:
PO probably swapped the cross over at some point and used exhaust studs vs bolts. I tried to do the studs on both sides but had clearance issues with them on one side (can't remember which). Be sure to use some copper coat on them since they are/were out. Things are prone to shearing off when a few years go by. I had to Heli-coil the ones on my old engine when that happened.
Click to expand...

It was a pita getting the nuts and bolts back in. I think the PO installed the new motor with the cross over installed because there is literally no room to get the nuts and bolts to work. I tapped 2 of the wholes so studs work. The 3rd whole wouldn't tap because I couldn't get the correct angle for the tap to work. I was able to get the nut and bolt to work barley.
 
As I was removing, cleaning, and reinstalling the FW/TC bolts I noticed that all but one of the bolts were too lose. Not enough to loosen with my fingers but the wrench was really easy to turn the bolts. Good thing I used blue thread locker and retorqued. Could have lead to major problems.

Also when I cleaned the dust cover, there was a groove in it where the bolt rubbed. Pretty ugly.
 
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