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Is it time for a new Accelerator Pedal Assembly? Inquiring minds want to know...

TurboTahoe

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Hi guys!

I guess it's the Tahoe's turn to need some attention.

1) What say you to this?
2) Can the current APP (Accelerator Pedal Position) unit be tested?

I'm going to do the obvious and simply unplug the current APP and clean the contacts, re-plug it.

I see that Amazon has Delco APPs for around $200

Thanks for your time, you guys are the best!

-Rob :)

I might need to pick up my long-desired GMTDScan from Leroy. Does he no longer carry the cables?



Problem: Explain your problem in concise language (ie: Cranks but won’t fire): Engine stumbles at idle, "Service Throttle Soon" light turns on, engine continues to stumble while idling, ignores input to accelerator pedal. Shut rig down and parked for 20 minutes, then started and ran as normal.

Demographics: tell us about your truck and your ambient conditions: 45 degrees F. Clear and sunny.

- Year: 1995
- Truck model and class (ie: c2500) K2500
- Automatic or Standard: Auto
- Mileage: (indicate miles or km) 196,000 miles
- Replaced parts and mods (IP, PMD, chip/PCM, TM, injectors etc) : as seen in sig below: Remote Heath PMD, hogged out S intake with EGR delete, aftermarket chip.
- Model: ‘S’ or ‘F’ engine, NA or Turbo, EGR? S engine.
- Ambient outside temp: (indicate *C or *F) 45 degrees F.
- What fuel are you using? (#1 Diesel, #2 Diesel, Bio, VO, WVO, etc) #2 Diesel, ULSD
- What fuel additives are you using? Gallon of B99 (ASTM certified) per tank.
- Where are you located? Pacific NW, USA

General maintenance: inspect and evaluate the condition of each. When were they last changed?
- Air filter: Good, 2 years ago, but only about 5000 miles
- Fuel filter: Good, 1 year ago, 3000 miles.
- CDR Valve? 3 years old.
- Coolant – last flushed/replaced at 2 years ago
- Oil – synthetic/regular, changed at: Change 1 month ago, running Mobil 1 Synthetic Turbo Diesel 5W/40
- Batteries – state of charge, (matched set) replaced at: Fully charged, changed 1 year ago.
- Battery cables and grounds (removed, cleaned and tightened): Checked, cleaned and tightened 1 year ago. All looks good.
- Glow Plugs - how many miles on them? 7000 miles What type? 60g
- Injectors - last changed at: Original to rig!


History: (Describe how the problem first appeared.)
- What were you doing when it happened? Came to stop on residential street, about to turn into the shopping mall.
- How was the truck running fine before this problem appeared? Yes! Strong, normal.
- Has this problem ever happened before? NO
- Describe any related factors that might be part of the problem. ______________
- Have you checked for DTC (Diagnostic Trouble Codes)? (Y.N) YES And? Did the paper clip thing, got the following codes:

DTC 23 = Accelerator Pedal Position (APP) 1 Circuit Range Fault
DTC 27 = Accelerator Pedal Position (APP) 2 Circuit Range Fault
DTC 84 = Accelerator Pedal Position (APP) Circuit Fault


Diagnostics:

1] Starting:
1a] Does the engine start? YES
1b] Does the engine crank over? YES
1c] Are your batteries fully charged? YES
1d] Have you removed, cleaned, and tightened all battery connections? YES
1e] Does your Wait to Start light come on for a time? How long? YES, 5-6 Seconds, normal time
1f] Does your glow plug light come on? _________ For how long? _________
1g] Do you see smoke from the exhaust while cranking? What color? NO
1h] Does the Service Engine Light Glow during Start/bulb check? NO

2] Fuel Issues (if not running):
2a] Can you hear your lift pump working? ____________
2b] Do you get a steady flow of fuel from the water drain (T-handle) ? _________
2c] Loosen the inlet line from the IP – is fuel coming out (Lift Pump on)? ___________
2d] Loosen an injector line and crank the engine - does fuel come out? _________
2e] Do you hear a vacuum (hiss) when you remove the fuel cap? ___________

3] PMD / IP Issues
3a] Location of PMD (on pump, on intake, remote mounted) HEATH Remote
3b] Condition of Extension harness (if used) Vendor or Homemade? HEATH Remote
3c] Condition of grounds / ground wires to IP / PMD. Check Harness. Looks good.
3d] PMD Make: HEATH Remote
3e] PMD Age: 8 years

4] Stalling Issues
4a] Do you experience stalling only when hot? Only happened once when hot.
4b] Does it stall under particular circumstances? (ie hit bump, or on accel) Happened when coming to a stop.
4c] Does pouring cool water over the IP seem to help with restarting? Didn't try
4d] Is stalling momentary (engine recovers)? Appears to recover after stopping for a few minutes.
4e] Does SES light come on when engine hiccups? NO
4f] Does cruise control quit working when engine hiccups? UNKNOWN
4g] Does re-starting seem to reset engine, restoring cruise and power? YES
4h] Changes to dash lights or instruments during stalling events? Service Throttle Soon light turns ON.

5] Running Issues
5a] On cold start, does upper rad hose get hard before engine warms up? NO
5b] Any bubbles or oil film in coolant overflow tank? NO
5c] Any white slime on oil surfaces (dipstick, CDR, oil Fill cap)? NO
5d] Excessive white smoke from exhaust on cold start? NO
5e] Excessive black smoke from exhaust under hard acceleration? NO (actually, after I did all the changes in my sig, I get VERY little smoke)

6] Performance Issues
6a] Do you have gauges (boost, EGT) ? NO
6b] Maximum boost under load? ____________
6c] Have you added a performance PCM (reflash) or Chip? ______________
6d] Have you changed exhaust / downpipe / crossover? ________________
6e] Wastegate – mechanical or vacuum (OEM)? ______________

7] Temperature-related Issues:
7a] Single or dual thermostats? ____________
7b] Have you replaced them lately? Manufacturer of replacements? _________
7c] Have you pulled and cleaned Radiator and coolers lately? ____________
7d] Have you replaced the fan clutch? Manufacturer of replacement? ________
7e] (winter) Have you tested your antifreeze? Good to what temp? __________
7f] (winter) Are you using a winter grille cover? ___________

List and describe any other factors which are not addressed in this checklist. We can’t see, hear, smell, or touch your truck, so the more descriptive information you can give, the more likely it is that somebody can assist you.
 
my understanding is basically 3 TPSs in one unit and the computer need to see 2 good references. I would think you should be able to separate out the signals and check each one. Oh and mine did that exact same thing minus the codes and it was the PMD
 
OK, I re-read my symptom description, and it's WRONG:

Here's the sequence:

1) Truck starts 1st thing in the AM and runs normally.
2) Stopped at red light to turn into the parking lot. It drops to normal idle, as expected.
3) Light turns green.
4) Start to accelerate. While starting to accelerate, engine stops accelerating and drops back to idle, while the "Service Throttle Soon" light illuminates.
5) Engine ignores any user input to the APP at this point.
6) Truck is in the parking lot, so power at idle is enough to get to a parking space, and shut down.
7) After doing a little shopping, everything back to normal.

OK, am I correct in assuming that the APP is simply similar to an electrical potentiometer (POT)? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q225qr0BctA

e.g. it sends a POT reading to the microprocessor that indicates (this is what the user is doing to the accelerator). Assuming how the thing is built, it could simply be conductive pickup arm that wipes across a resistive surface. Over time, the resistive surface will wear down, or oxydize.

Has anyone cracked one of these open, or have a 95 workshop manual with proper schematics? (I have one for the 99 Suburban, but not the Tahoe, and it's clear the circuitry is pretty different between the two).

Thanks,

Rob :)
 
my understanding is basically 3 TPSs in one unit and the computer need to see 2 good references. I would think you should be able to separate out the signals and check each one. Oh and mine did that exact same thing minus the codes and it was the PMD

What's a TPS?

Thanks,

Rob :)
 
throttle position sensor. I've read a couple of threads about spraying contact cleaner into a hole in the APP to clean up the internal workings
 
OK, based on my research, it would appear that AK Diesel Driver is correct. (correct me if my info is wrong).

The Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor (APPS?) is essentially three TPS (Throttle Position Sensors) in one. I'm going to hazard a guess that they are simply three potentiometers, and that GM put them in there for triple redundancy, and that the microprocessor sees three readings, and it will set codes if the three don't agree.

Based on the TDCs,

DTC 23 = Accelerator Pedal Position (APP) 1 Circuit Range Fault
DTC 27 = Accelerator Pedal Position (APP) 2 Circuit Range Fault
DTC 84 = Accelerator Pedal Position (APP) Circuit Fault

I would guess that two of the TPS units have a "Circuit Range Fault". What does that mean? Hmm. Perhaps it means that it is getting a reading that is not in the proper range based on the design of the Circuit. For example, if it had a range of 5-10 (units unknown, but let's assume some resistance range) and it was getting something more (like an 11) then that would be 'out of circuit range'.

OK, we also know that potentiometers will typically fail if the wiper is dirty or oxidized (higher resistance), or if the wiper stops touching the strip (infinite resistance, but probably fail-safed to be 10 max).

Given that there are three circuits in the APPS, then the TDCs are saying that 1 and 2 are showing faults. Why would it also set code 84?

Boy, this would be a whole lot easier with a set of schematics...

I'm assuming that GMTDTech would be able to tell me all three readings. I think I'll order it up, even though the budget is really tight.

All useful input is welcome, guys.

-Rob :)
 
I have a working used pedal assembly off a '95 Suburban. PM me with an offer.

Thanks Big T, that's quite kind. However, assuming it is a normal-wear item, I'm thinking that would be akin to buying used tires or brakes. I think I would be better off with a new one, assuming I can afford it.

I know that a used potentiometer is definitely a wear item, and given this rig is nearly 20 years old, I think I'd rather save up a bit a dump in a new APPS.

Thanks again,

Rob :)
 
I don't think I can ever recall reading about 1 that failed.

That's interesting! Frankly, neither have I.

I just ordered an ALDL Cable so that I can use the free GMTDScan Basic to check what the controller is seeing on the sensors. I'm assuming that the three APP sensors should read the same within some kind of tolerance level.

At any rate, it will be nice to have a bit more diagnostic horsepower to work on my rig.

I've always been hesitant to buy anything, as I have TWO 6.5s and one is OBD1 and one is OBD2, so I need different scanning software for each one.

Thanks,

Rob :)
 
I don't think I can ever recall reading about 1 that failed.

I've heard that they can fail, but it's not common and definitely not on the order of a "normal wear item." Given that a new APP is around $400+, I threw out the offer to sell a good used one. Don't know what he's looking at on Amazon for $200. Probably CKO, definitely not a new GM part. Hope he has good experience with that.
 
I've heard that they can fail, but it's not common and definitely not on the order of a "normal wear item." Given that a new APP is around $400+, I threw out the offer to sell a good used one. Don't know what he's looking at on Amazon for $200. Probably CKO, definitely not a new GM part. Hope he has good experience with that.

Hi Big T,

Thank you for all the good advice. Again, your offer is really kind, and I appreciate it, and I agree it would be preferable to a Chinese Knock Off.

What I'm looking at is an AC/Delco part sold by Amazon. You can find it by looking for "ACDelco 213-2820 Accelerator Pedal Assembly"

What do you guys think? It truly looks to me to be the OEM part, and indicates that it is stamped with the OEM part number of 15751307.

According to
http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/showthread.php?629-Part-s-for-6-5

It seems to me that it is the correct part.
Accelerator Pedal Assembly w/Position Sensor OEM – 15751307, AC Delco - 213-2820

Thank you,

Rob :)
 
I am avoiding putting the direct link in as I have always understood that to be a violation of forum rules unless it links to a supporting vendor.

Thanks,

Rob :)
 
The price of the TPS DB2's and APP DS4's appear to have finally come down. A known good used part is a good thing to have for troubleshooting as the book calls for checking wiring, replace APP then replace ECM in that order. The ECM being cheaper is of course last.

Your ECM ground needs to be spotless. Checking ECM fuses for corrosion, ignition switch etc. all matter. GMTDScan will show you the voltages at all 3 pots, the ECM voltage - critical for this problem, and any DTC's.

I would disconnect and test each battery and alternator just to be sure.

Mechanically the APP wears out and is a common expensive failure. Combined with a PMD it is cheaper to convert to a DB2!!!

You get a generic useless code 84 saying something is wrong, DUH!, and then a specific code as to what pot and related wiring is bad. You have a connector at the APP and then another connector near the ECM for the wires that go to the APP. So another connector to 'clean'. They then join the main harness plugs to the ECM. It is a dedicated circuit unaffected by other sensors and shorts - except main ECM power and ground connections.

When you key off the truck wait 30 seconds before you turn the key back on. Otherwise the STS and SES lights become random because the computer is powered for 30 seconds or so after key off by it's own capacitors. (It will update numbers on the scanner for about this long too after key off.) I have found that the 1995 generates and stores a ghost APP circuit 2 code if you cycle the ignition off and on too quickly. (No STS light.) The term is frying as applies to old Atari games to get unexpected game results like unlimited game time, high scores, etc. You fry an Atari by cycling the power switch quickly. So when the CPU wants to write a "1" the voltage is so low it writes a "0" instead, but, a general reset from power loss is not initiated. Same thing happens with bad grounds or low "brownout" voltage to the ECM.
 
Thanks 4thesporty1

I will check all the links out.

Sincerely,

Rob :)

P.S. Welcome to the site!
 
The price of the TPS DB2's and APP DS4's appear to have finally come down. A known good used part is a good thing to have for troubleshooting as the book calls for checking wiring, replace APP then replace ECM in that order. The ECM being cheaper is of course last.

Your ECM ground needs to be spotless. Checking ECM fuses for corrosion, ignition switch etc. all matter. GMTDScan will show you the voltages at all 3 pots, the ECM voltage - critical for this problem, and any DTC's.

I would disconnect and test each battery and alternator just to be sure.

Mechanically the APP wears out and is a common expensive failure. Combined with a PMD it is cheaper to convert to a DB2!!!

You get a generic useless code 84 saying something is wrong, DUH!, and then a specific code as to what pot and related wiring is bad. You have a connector at the APP and then another connector near the ECM for the wires that go to the APP. So another connector to 'clean'. They then join the main harness plugs to the ECM. It is a dedicated circuit unaffected by other sensors and shorts - except main ECM power and ground connections.

When you key off the truck wait 30 seconds before you turn the key back on. Otherwise the STS and SES lights become random because the computer is powered for 30 seconds or so after key off by it's own capacitors. (It will update numbers on the scanner for about this long too after key off.) I have found that the 1995 generates and stores a ghost APP circuit 2 code if you cycle the ignition off and on too quickly. (No STS light.) The term is frying as applies to old Atari games to get unexpected game results like unlimited game time, high scores, etc. You fry an Atari by cycling the power switch quickly. So when the CPU wants to write a "1" the voltage is so low it writes a "0" instead, but, a general reset from power loss is not initiated. Same thing happens with bad grounds or low "brownout" voltage to the ECM.

A BIG thank you, WarWagon!

Excellent information. How on earth do you know all this stuff?

Thanks again,

Rob :)
 
so can you tell us the short version, did yours fail?

Mine turned out to be a bad connection at the PS battery from an aging "battery bolt" mod on the negative side, which as we all know...wait for it...check your grounds first :)

Thanks 4thesporty1

I will check all the links out.

Sincerely,

Rob :)

P.S. Welcome to the site!


Your welcome, however I have been on the site for years now, but when I changed email addresses I could never get a mod to fix my original account's user name "4thesporty" so I had to make a new account.
 
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