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Is it normal to hit 1100F unloaded?

great white

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Well, I've got my egt gauge in. Looks good, digital goes with the interior fairly well.

Took the TD up a fairly long and steep hill today.

Smoked like a biatch accelerating up the hill.

But, that's not what's really bothiering me. What is is that the EGT was hitting 1077 F and there was nothing in the truck besides me and a full tank!

Smoking like a bugger and EGT was still climbing so I let off and temps/smoke dropped to around 8-900. When I backed off, the smoke let off and turned into a blueish/whitish haze with just a touch of black in it.

Is that normal?

I believe my IP is a little on the + side for static timing. I'm waiting for Carcode to show up so I can set it properly. Before I had to reset my IP, she would blow a destroyer sized black cloud up the same hill, but I didn't have my EGT gauge in then so I don't know if the temps are "normal"....
 
What you got there is lots of fuel, not enough air, BJ... check your air filter, make sure it's clean and the airpath is clear. You might also want to check your vacuum at the solenoid and at the wastegate.

When you're blowing black, your EGTs will climb - always. If you can get some more air in there, things will cool down.

Questions/thoughts for you:
- You put your probe into the driver's side crossover, or did you drill into a manifold?
- did you ever change the MAP to a 3 bar?
- consider advancing your timing just a RCH - you'll need to relearn.
- consider a turbomaster if your vac system is acting up - put s weak helper spring on the wastegate arm and try that hill again with more boost.
 
What you got there is lots of fuel, not enough air, BJ... check your air filter, make sure it's clean and the airpath is clear. You might also want to check your vacuum at the solenoid and at the wastegate.

When you're blowing black, your EGTs will climb - always. If you can get some more air in there, things will cool down.

Questions/thoughts for you:
- You put your probe into the driver's side crossover, or did you drill into a manifold?
- did you ever change the MAP to a 3 bar?
- consider advancing your timing just a RCH - you'll need to relearn.
- consider a turbomaster if your vac system is acting up - put s weak helper spring on the wastegate arm and try that hill again with more boost.

1. Pre turbo in manifold:

DSC03815.jpg


2. Nope. Stock 2 bar sensor to the best of my knowledge. 3 Bar was only for a gauge I was looking at.
3. Waiting for car code to show up to do the timing right (What's RCH?). Not exactly sure where static timing is right now (had to move pump to get it to run, see "TDCO is F'd" thread)
4. Keeping the vac system, but I guess I need a boost guage to check 'er out. I may try the helper spring just as a trouble shooting thing for now...the vac pot is fine. Already checked it, rock solid with a ac source applied (mityac). Same with the vac pump. Aging lines maybe? Need boost gauge first I'm thinking....

I guess "defuelling" isn't an issue......;)
 
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Turbomaster time! You need more boost. Oddly enough it cools the EGTs. I suspect issues with the stock vacuum pump.

Also in a hurry get rid of the stock exhaust!!!
 
I remembered your TDCO thread, BJ, that's why I suggested it. If you advance things just a bit and relearn, you'll get closer to where you want to be.

The solenoids might be just fine, but the fact is, you need more vacuum at the WG; like I said, try a little helper spring (maybe 3# pull) and try the hill again. Won't take much to make a big difference

Jim
 
Did I mention exhaust? :)

Also we need to talk about those Pioneer amps... Check out the new Phoenix Gold stuff. Very nice. And when you say MBQ it better be the old German stuff. Granted I did pick up some PTK40 tweets that I have yet to try out, but they get great reviews. Nothing beats the accuracy of the titanium/AL tweets (granted cheapos are very shrill).

If you are interested hit me in a PM and I can guide you to a fun car audio forum that is low drama.
 
As been said,not enough air + timing is an issue
you need a boost gauge as well.
You could have a half plugged soot trap as well,you may want to gut the thing or cut it out all together.
 
Thanks, Simon - I plumb forgot about soot trap... the FIRST damn thing I do is change exhaust. Every time. If you have restrictions in either your crossover or exhaust, your turbo won't perform as it should.

And BJ - RCH is Red C _ _ _ Hair ... Play hangman with that one.
 
Thanks, Simon - I plumb forgot about soot trap... the FIRST damn thing I do is change exhaust. Every time. If you have restrictions in either your crossover or exhaust, your turbo won't perform as it should.

And BJ - RCH is Red C _ _ _ Hair ... Play hangman with that one.

LOL, get the missus to help you with that one.

Can't.

She's blonde and....ummm....errrrr.....ahhhhh......well....):h
 
The stock ecm will back out of the boost also. Vac system only does what it's told.My 95 "S" programming just plain sucks. It cuts the boost when you need it most.Factory exhaust is like a potato in the pipe.
 
The stock ecm will back out of the boost also. Vac system only does what it's told.My 95 "S" programming just plain sucks. It cuts the boost when you need it most.Factory exhaust is like a potato in the pipe.

I was thinking that.

That's why I've been toying with the idea of a "boost fooler". I'm just not sure how that would effect fueling.

Need that boost gauge first.


Mine's an "F" if that makes any difference for the boost "curve".
 
The problem with a boost fooler is that it displaces the curve all the way across, not just when you need it.

Seriously, a good Turbomaster is a wonderful thing... there are enough people putting on ATTs that there should be a TM floating around somewhere.

Of course, you could surely make your own, but then you most definitely need a boost gauge... Heath put a lot of engineering, experimentation, and precision construction to be able to get a completely predictable unit that I'd feel safe using without a gauge.

Something I built myself would work just fine, but it wouldn't react in a predictable fashion.
 
The problem with a boost fooler is that it displaces the curve all the way across, not just when you need it.

Seriously, a good Turbomaster is a wonderful thing... there are enough people putting on ATTs that there should be a TM floating around somewhere.

Of course, you could surely make your own, but then you most definitely need a boost gauge... Heath put a lot of engineering, experimentation, and precision construction to be able to get a completely predictable unit that I'd feel safe using without a gauge.

Something I built myself would work just fine, but it wouldn't react in a predictable fashion.

I'm thinking about an adjustable pot form the drivers seat.

Turn it up when I need it for power, turn it off when I want the PCM to manage economy.

Just a thought right now though...
 
My EGT's get up to 1200 degrees with a heavy load, and 1100ish climbing decent hills empty...Im running VERY VERY little boost currently(got the waste gate open still saving for the ATT)...I dont get an awesome show of black(very disappointing i think) but its enough to make people mad and make my EGT's spike up....when I was getting 10psi boost it was VERY VERY VERY hard to get my truck to smoke, but my EGT's were still up really high(wastegate was stuck and wasnt opening).....BUT i feel the ATT will fix that..Id say you have a boost problem if you get a nice show of black....tap a boost gauge in and read your boost!!! 4psi of boost will almost kill all of my black smoke and 10psi turns it into a grayish haze with SOME black.....14psi makes it all gray/white......
 
There is nothing wrong with the boost fooler idea, A TM does the same thing, affects the boost curve all the time, setting your max and min. TM also cannot perform as well if you have it programmed to hold boost

Better yet, just get a custom PCM, and you wont have a problem with the vacuum system or need a boost fooler.

But please get rid of that stock exhaust, it is ridiculous on a turbo charger
 
There is nothing wrong with the boost fooler idea, A TM does the same thing, affects the boost curve all the time, setting your max and min. TM also cannot perform as well if you have it programmed to hold boost

Better yet, just get a custom PCM, and you wont have a problem with the vacuum system or need a boost fooler.

But please get rid of that stock exhaust, it is ridiculous on a turbo charger

One problem:

Money.

Need some....:mad2:
 
Hey, just start your own SAR website and get people to send you theirs... at least you'll really BE an SAR guy.

Ha!

Should start a class action suit about how unsafe the randomly pulsing wipers are, or the yellowing headlights, or the leaking oil cooler lines, or.....well you get the idea....):h

No pictures of my hot wife though.....:nono:


):h
 
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