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Ip's

figment

figment

A junkie for the purr of a 6.5L
Messages
113
Reaction score
1
Location
Canadian prairies
I'm in bit of a rush today but if I don't do this now I'll forget.

My question's can I make a IP from a 6.2L work for my 6.5L? I want to change it over from Electronic to Mech. I just shelled out a few hundred buck's for a D-tech pmd (came with one yr. warranty even though I installed it.), or should I be looking for a broken 6.5. The reason why I'm asking next time this happens I want to be ready, and just switch everything over. I know I'd be better off finding a wrecked '93 or '94, and strip everything, but around here guy's buy the wreck's from salvage for $2000 put sheet metal from a gasser and resell them for 3-4000 profit. For that price I can buy a new mech. IP, all the hardware, and a new wiring harness for the price of a wrecked truck.


I know where I can get 3-6.2's less than 10 miles from me, one is locked up from an oil cooler line blowing out.
 
Hunt down BobbieMartin - he has done this and has the details on how you make your transmission work and keep from having a million codes pop up as soon as your PCM figures out there isn't an IP under the hood...
 
There is nothing wrong with a DS4 if the PMD is properly relocated. It should last easily 3yrs+. Also the DS4 puts out more fuel thana DB2. DB2's are not indestructable either. I got a bench full of dead ones. I did two this year alone.
 
The reason I went with a 1993 - no electronics or vac pump to deal with for the engine. Trans is electronic for an auto. And at this age electronics are an issue as well as mechanical problems.

These old engines and DB2's have enough trouble as it is. You have to find old timing tools or time by ear for the DB2. Cruise control is a separate and expensive to buy new/rebuilt electronic module.

Used you could do it cheap. Just ask yourself if a single PMD failure is worth the trouble and expense. (Towing, lost truck work, etc.) If a DB2 starts she will run till you are out of fuel even with hot rotor warp/wear (no hot start issues).

Carry a spare PMD. It may be cheaper and less trouble. Otherwise parts to do this get posted on here now and then...
 
IIRC.........6.2 and 6.5 fuel lines are different size, or at least the fittings are.
 
As long as your IP is good, the DTECH should take good care of you.

I have a DTECH thats 3 years old now on DaHoooley and it works fine.

The big issue with swapping out the DS4 and installing a DB2 is getting the auto tranny to work right. If you have a stick shift your set. A 4911 DB2 will do fine.

Just shoot the ses light and your ready to go.

I have seen a few 4L80 trannies set up with mickey mouse makeshift TPS stuff and it works but, has issues from time to time with shift quality.

Just mount your DTECH PMD on a good cooler in a real good cool place away from the heat and your good to go.

The DTECH was engineered to operate at far higher heat levels than the PMD normally see's anyway so no problemo.

Missy
 
The only real way to make the tranny work good is with a compushift and that is 1200$. You could carry alot of spare PMDs for that much.
 
Well thanx everybody for the imput, I know that the IP's made for both engines are the weak link. I've done quite a bit of reading on here already(when I've got some time) but this project will come about whenever or if ever the parts drop on my lap for the right price. I really like the fact with everything mechanical if it's got fuel and it quit, there is only half the trouble shooting.

I followed the advice of a lot of people here and made a harness for the pmd and moved it inside the front bumper with the heat sink when I first bought it a yr. ago today. And yes I actually carry two old pmd's with me that is how I got it 30 miles back to the house when it quit, but the I could hear the pistons popping from being out of time and of course it coded 35. I'm just frustrated about this week link that the flunky engineers at GM because they wouldn't remedy this problem. However there is no way I could ever go back to owning a gasser and get 14 mpg (like my old one) and pay over a dollar a liter when I get 24 mpg and pay an average of 90 cents a liter.
 
Missy Good Wench said:
As long as your IP is good, the DTECH should take good care of you.

I have a DTECH thats 3 years old now on DaHoooley and it works fine.

The big issue with swapping out the DS4 and installing a DB2 is getting the auto tranny to work right. If you have a stick shift your set. A 4911 DB2 will do fine.

Just shoot the ses light and your ready to go.

I have seen a few 4L80 trannies set up with mickey mouse makeshift TPS stuff and it works but, has issues from time to time with shift quality.

Just mount your DTECH PMD on a good cooler in a real good cool place away from the heat and your good to go.

The DTECH was engineered to operate at far higher heat levels than the PMD normally see's anyway so no problemo.

Missy
Click to expand...
Thanx a lot for your contribution Missy, I've read some of what you have put up either here or at the other place, and I remember now that you've mentioned the difference between the IP's before and I had forgotten all about it until you responded here.

As far as my IP I hope it'll hold up for a while, it was replaced when there was 245,000 km's on the clock and now there is 285,000 km's. That's about 25,000 miles on it, and the injector's were replaced at the same time. I've been following Matuva's advice and have bin adding a little synthetic two stoke engine oil with the diesel on every fill up, from what I understand is that regular diesel here in Canada is what is considered low sulphur diesel state side, hope fully it's saving my IP and injectors a little at least.

At this point I think I'm gonna just ask for a new Pmd for X-mas to keep as a spare and spend my money on a few things that I should get from Heath.
 
Figment, our diesel is the same as the Ultra-Low-Sulphur Diesel (ULSD) they have under the line... most of us up here put at least 1/2 a litre of cheap 30wt motor oil into every full tank. Buy the Walmart or Co-op stuff, the non-detergent, no additive dino oil... the cheapest stuff you can find. Works much better than a little synthetic, only adds $2 to your fill-up..
 
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JiFaire said:
Figment, our diesel is the same as the Ultra-Low-Sulphur Diesel (ULSD) they have under the line... most of us up here put at least 1/2 a litre of cheap 30wt motor oil into every full tank. Buy the Walmart or Co-op stuff, the non-detergent, no additive dino oil... the cheapest stuff you can find. Works much better than a little synthetic, only adds $2 to your fill-up..
Click to expand...

Thanx for clearing that up for me and the tip. I appreciate any and all info, especially these little things. :thumbsup:
 
I use an additive instead of 2 stroke or motor oil:

XDP_ADD_front1.jpg


That stuff with a Canadian label. Has a different name, but the label contents read the same. Any diesel shop should be able to get it.

Quieted my 6.5 down, injectors sound much happier and one bottle will last me damn near a year...

Injector line fittings are different sizes at the Injector pump for a 6.2. If you swap, you'll need the 6.2 lines...amongst a shopping list of other things...
 
XDP works OK for a lot of things, but it's pretty light on the Lubrication, BJ ... I wouldn't worry about it if you had a Duramax, Cummins, or Pstroks, but you don't.

You have an ornery old 6.5 with a Stanadyne DS-4. With an optic sensor and a history of poor tolerance for low-lube conditions.

Which is why we recommend over-doing it with lube additives, like motor oil.

The XDP won't hurt anything - but it might not help as much as you want, either.

JMHO, Cheif.
Jim
 
JiFaire said:
XDP works OK for a lot of things, but it's pretty light on the Lubrication, BJ ... I wouldn't worry about it if you had a Duramax, Cummins, or Pstroks, but you don't.

You have an ornery old 6.5 with a Stanadyne DS-4. With an optic sensor and a history of poor tolerance for low-lube conditions.

Which is why we recommend over-doing it with lube additives, like motor oil.

The XDP won't hurt anything - but it might not help as much as you want, either.

JMHO, Cheif.
Jim
Click to expand...

Thanks, noted...:thumbsup:


( and it's not chief, it's just plain ol' Warrant ;) )
 
The Stanadyne additive is the best. If using 2 stroke, make sure it's low ash. You think DS4's are bad ?? Unreliable ?? Try buying a 2nd gen Dodge with a 24v CTD and a VP44. I think the light duty diesels that came with a REAL ip were the 1st gen 12v Cummions with the P Pumps. The Mech Ips on the 6.9/7.3 NA Fords were not much better than the DB2 and they are not all that IMHO.
 
Acesneights1 said:
The Stanadyne additive is the best. If using 2 stroke, make sure it's low ash. You think DS4's are bad ?? Unreliable ?? Try buying a 2nd gen Dodge with a 24v CTD and a VP44. I think the light duty diesels that came with a REAL ip were the 1st gen 12v Cummions with the P Pumps. The Mech Ips on the 6.9/7.3 NA Fords were not much better than the DB2 and they are not all that IMHO.
Click to expand...

:iagree:

yep the IP's on those early Fords look alot like our IP's too.
 
Acesneights1 said:
The Stanadyne additive is the best. If using 2 stroke, make sure it's low ash. You think DS4's are bad ?? Unreliable ?? Try buying a 2nd gen Dodge with a 24v CTD and a VP44. I think the light duty diesels that came with a REAL ip were the 1st gen 12v Cummions with the P Pumps. The Mech Ips on the 6.9/7.3 NA Fords were not much better than the DB2 and they are not all that IMHO.
Click to expand...

first gen cummins came with ve bosch pumps and second gen came with p pumps
 
I had a 2nd gen with a VP44. AFAIK All the 24V had the VP44. The race guys change the timing case cover and run P Pumps with no fuel plate. I have never seen a 24V 2nd gen with anything but a VP. #rd gen is common rail.
 
OK you made me go look again. We are both wrong and both right. 2nd gen 12V had P Pumps. 2Nd Gen 24v had VP44. 1st Gen 12v had the Bosch. I've pretty much only dealt with 24v valve so wasn't sure of the years on the 12v.
 
Acesneights1 said:
The only real way to make the tranny work good is with a compushift and that is 1200$. You could carry alot of spare PMDs for that much.
Click to expand...

Sorry, gotta raise the flag on this one. :icon_bs:
DB2 compatible 4L80E trans computers can be found for $100-150 very easily - sometimes even less. And these give factory reliability and shifting because they are GM parts! It really is not that hard on 2WD autos to convert. A little harder on 4X4 auto's, but worth it no matter what you have. With a DB2, you eliminate PMD, optical sensor, vacuum and APP problems forever!. No relocating dubious electrical components to various spots on the truck, no carrying spare parts for when they fail, no wondering when the engine will sputter, you just drive it. I know, an odd concept for a 6.5!
 
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