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IP replacement and timing questions

S

scubabri

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Location
Hemet, CA
My truck is in the shop getting the injection pump replaced. The shop is not familiar with the 6.5L, but they are a good diesel shop.

I just wanted to clarify the procedure.

1. Remove existing pump.
2. Put new pump, tech scribed lines on both IP and body and made a template to mark new IP to line up where old pump was at.
3. Start truck, coolant to 170F + use TIMESET function (using snapon verus) to set timing at 0. (Desired timing/actual timing 3.5*)
4. Note TDCO.
5. Adjust pump to drivers side to make TDCO more negative value, pax side for more positive value.
6. TDCO set on snapon to get -1.94 TDCO

did I miss anything?
 
Yah, we were reading about some of the issues with that. I have a car-code as well, just in case. But I'm not sure how to do the TIMESET with the car-code.
 
Regardless of what diesel experience mechanics have don't trust them to diagnose the 6.5TD. Seriously, could be the nicest people too but they will not know how to diagnose it. If you know what the problem is and just need them to do the labor, then they can probably stumble through a manual, but then you end up in a situation like this, where you dont know if it was done properly.
 
My confusion is with the TIMESET and the TDCO. If I understand correctly, the TIMESET will command the base timing to be set to 3.5* if the physical position is close to where it should be, the TDCO will require moving the pump to achieve the desired TDCO, is that correct?
 
It's slightly different from my understanding from OBD1 to OBD2. IN OBD2 AFAIK you just set the TDCO but I could be wrong. Search out posts on timing from a user named GMCTD. He summed it up but got a little more techincal than I can re iterate so rather than screw it up, I'll just point the way...:D
 
Not sure that the Snap On or Tech 2 do timeset for OBD2 like Kenny was saying. Carcode does though. No matter what, where you tighten the pump down is what the timing is, timeset just shows you how many degrees advance it actually is. So, you command TimeSet and the desired timing goes to 0 so the PCM tries to step it down to 0, but bottoms out at the "base" timing which should be around 3.5 degrees. That assures you get a TDCO value within tolerance.
 
Using car-code, when I command the timeset, should I expect the desired and actual to both read 0 or some other number?
 
desired goes to 0, but actual/measured goes to the least it can step down to which is what we are calling "base" timing so actual should be about 3.5 degrees average.

desired 0, actual 3.5ish

Up to about 3.8ish actual is good, it may flucuate a lot while in timeset but its about an average.
 
1st Time set & TDCO are 2 different things where you position the IP does impact both however. If using a MT2500 I need to know what year cartridge you are using as for some reason MT2500 correct setting for TDCO varies depending which cartridge is used.

Easiest way to set with the MT2500 I use regardless which year cartridge, is loosen to snug only, the bottom (2) IP mounts, and use the top mount at full torque to lock the IP between adjustments, then start engine to get it to full warm up temp >170F coolant temp so cold advance isn't in play, then in MT2500 to go to time set mode which as detailed previously 0 becomes the desired, and actual per GM manual is supposed to avg 3.5 deg actual, what I do is set the avg to be 3.8 deg avg actual which puts you in range to set TDCO of -1.5/1.94 when out of time set.

Then with ko/ko to APP to the floor you initiate the TDCO learn, Carcode works as well, several CC owners have posted how to do it here on the site with the CC tool.
 
Ok, so a few tense moments because the battery was low and I couldnt get a good glow, but we charged the battery, cracked a injector line just to see and cranked it, it sputtered and died a couple times and then fired up. First tdco was .09, moved the IP about a 1/4mm to the drivers side, did the tdco learn again (using car-code) got -2.02 and then -1.76. So I'm happy.

we ran it around the block and came back and hooked the Verus up, got the same readings as the car-code.

Am I good? Anything I need to beware of running with the rebuilt (from pensacola), like break-in that kinda stuff? I'm going to run about 1/2 quart of 2 cycle oil for each tank of fuel, sound about right?

Oh, we also got the FTB in from Patrick up at walking j, thanks man.

The guys who did my work are Jefferson State Diesel in Redding, and I feel good that they let me hang out and give my input about the work being done.
 
Right now, its all I could afford. I paid close attention to the tech replacing it, and I'm confident that I can do it myself next time. So hopefully it lasts me long enough to get home to SoCal from Redding. I'll make sure I have tow insurance for the trip home, just in case.
 
Im sure your rebuillt IP will be alright. One thing you could check is your idle fuel rate. It should be about 7-9mm3 at warm idle. If its real low then the rebuilt IP's OS wasnt calibrated on a real test bench. Although I have more faith in Pensacola to have actually calibrated them versus smaller shops that just swap parts.
 
hmm, well I woulnt worry about it. Isnt going to hurt you much. When you have a chance maybe check out warm idle desired timing vs measured timing. If fuel rate reads high when everything else is working right then it could just be that the OS wasnt positioned correctly. If the truck seems less responsive or less powerful then you can work on it when you get home. Not too hard to bump the OS into the correct position.
 
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