IP installation 2

[buddy]

By this time the pump is likely the same, although there was a different pump used in 94 on most 3500s and HD models. It was model 5068. However if it went in for service GM typically replaced it with the 5067 or compatable model pump and changed the EPROM in the PCM to control it.

So chances are it is the same, and hopefully one that had been replaced since 2000 or so.

Besides the the nuts, you obviously also need to remove the fuel injection lines and the upper intake plenum.

 

[packratt]

You also need to remove the oil fill tube and insert a socket to remove the bolts holding the IP gear on.

There are 3 bolts on the exterior that told the pump to the block and 3 behind the timing cover that hold the gear to the pump.

 

[Hydrauk]

Buddy and Packrat,
Ok then...good information. So I will attempt, to remove it in the next few days, at the Scrap yard. Will post updates.

I was hoping, that after removing the three hold down bolts, It would come out kinda like a distributer in a old gasser.

Cheers!
David

 

[Missy Good Wench]

XXX2
All the info is spot on.

Rebuilding a DS or even a DB pump is best left to the folks at a certified standayne shop with all the correct tools, gauges and a test stand.

I wont even touch the inside of one of these things.

The time and effort involved is far too great to not be able to run the thing on a test stand to check it out.

Also the repair parts that one needs are not readily available.

I will tackle most things, but the IP and injectors get a trip to the Pump shop to be worked on.

I use a local pump shop that is Stanadyne/Bosch certified. These guys know their stuff and when I get a pump or a set of injectors back, I feel warm and fuzzy knowing that the parts are going to work properly.

I have had the top off a DB2 to replace a failed fuel shut off and the throttle shaft seals.

Beyond this I wont go there.

The DB2 can and does see advance piston bore wear. To get the IP back to proper function the bore must be honed oversize and a new piston installed.

Just way too much stuff that needs to be absolutely perfect in these pumps especially the elctronic ones to go fooling around in there.

As I said before, there is not much that I will back down from. (Even auto trannies are a snap)

Pumps and squirts are where I draw the line in the sand.


Best


Missy

 

[Missy Good Wench]

Hydrauk

The IP will not come off unless you remove the 3 bolts on the drive gear.
Remove the oil filler and they are accessible there. Turn the engine over to allow access to each bolt. Once the bolts are off the gear, remove the 3 nuts that hold the IP to the cover. (remove the injector lines first off)

If you can get the lines cheap I would say, do so. These are very spendy if you need a set in a hurry.

Keep them in the pairs that they are clamped in. Mark the pairs with duct tape and a sharpy pen 1-3 5-7 2-4 6-8 (or hard paper wired tags)
Just bag them in a good HD zip lock freezer bag as is and they will be there if you ever need them.

Marking them and keeping them in pairs makes the job of refitting them very easy later on.


Missy

 

[Missy Good Wench]

INDY

Very nice writeup on the task of doing an IP R&R

Piccy's make things so much better for those who have never done it before.


Maybe the mods will place this material over with the stuff I did on the DaHoooley rebuild in a sticky so it will be readily available. (6.2/6.5 techy stuff)


Missy

 

[Hydrauk]

Hydrauk

The IP will not come off unless you remove the 3 bolts on the drive gear.
Remove the oil filler and they are accessible there. Turn the engine over to allow access to each bolt. Once the bolts are off the gear, remove the 3 nuts that hold the IP to the cover. (remove the injector lines first off)

If you can get the lines cheap I would say, do so. These are very spendy if you need a set in a hurry.

Keep them in the pairs that they are clamped in. Mark the pairs with duct tape and a sharpy pen 1-3 5-7 2-4 6-8 (or hard paper wired tags)
Just bag them in a good HD zip lock freezer bag as is and they will be there if you ever need them.

Marking them and keeping them in pairs makes the job of refitting them very easy later on.


Missy

Missy,
Ok I understand the removal process a whole lot better now. Thanks!

I can also see how it would be better to send the unit out for re-build, as the shop would have the correct tools for the job to be done.

I will get those Fuel lines from the junker, when I get the pump. Always good to have spares!

Cheers!
David

 

[indybeck]

Thank you, MGW, I may have my shot at being immortal! Thanks for you, and the Doc stopping by!