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IP installation 2

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now remove injection lines from pump. to make things easier, i completely removed lines from drivers side. that gained me enough room to get the pump out.
 
now that you have the back of the pump freed up, you have to free up the front. you have to find TDC no1 cylinder. the way i did it was remove the no. 1 glow plug. have a buddy turn the engine clockwise while you hold your finger lightly over the glow plug hole. when you feel a rush of air you are coming up un the compression stroke on that cylider. turn sloly until you feel the air stopcoming out. STOP, this is TDC. mark the IP driven gear through the oil filler hole. this is just a reference. remove the bolt aligned with the hole. REMEMBER the crank turns two time around for one turn of the IP. go around bringing each bolt in align with the hole and removing. REMEMBER, count how many times you go around you want to end up back at TDC no.1. there is a timing mark on the crank damper for reference. now you can take out the three nuts holding the IP onto the engine. be careful when removing pump, you don't want to move the gear one way or another.
 
no, matt, the bolts you are looking at are holding the IP driven gear to the pump. the nuts that hold it on are on the opposite side. you can see them without any dissassembly.
 
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now that the pump is out, it is a great time to clean around the intake holes, and INSTALL THE IP GASKET. be sure to remove the old one, or you may be disappointed when a leak presents itself.
 
now that everything is cleaned and prepped, it is time to install the new pump. there is a small dowel on the pump drive. a newly remanned pump will usually be set to no.1 TDC. it is nice to have that buddy around to watch where that dowel is as you slide the pump into the hole. have him, or her tell you if you have to turn to the passenger, or the drivers side. when the dowel is aligned, gently slide the pump into the hole. start one IP nut just to hold it in, and from moving much. now the hard part is done! align the bolt holes with the filler hole, and install the bolts. torque them to 20 ft. lb. now look on the old IP, and see where the nut wear mark are on the flange. try to put them in roughly the same place, and tighten them down. this is usually a good starting point. now you can begin reassembly!
 
now, if you are like me, and you don't have the money to buy a tech2, or any other tool to help you time the truck after reassembly, hen go to you local shop, and ask if he can help you fine tune your truck. if he is like the one i have in town, he hasn't done a bunch of diesel trucks. he may be willing to have you help in his off time...for CHEAP! so that he can learn a little something to.
 
i hope this has helped some people decide to, or not to, install their own IP. any questions, or BS calls are welcome! LOL thanks for listening!
 
Great write up with good pics!!!!!! How it running now? No more symptoms?
 
actual install by a mechanic? probably, 700-900 labor. actual time to install? took me about 8 hours, but was my first time! and peace of mind, as long as it runs, i'm happy! as far as house calls, it may take me awhile to get there! LOL anything for a buck!
 
Do you think that the finding cyl 1 TDC and taking the bolts loose through the oil fill tube is necessary? I have not heard people doing this before. Like if I pull the IP out, shouldnt the new go back in the same way?
 
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