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IP failure? Very hard starting

One of the first things I think I will do is find out what the crank speed "should" be, as well as acceptable voltage drop, etc. My starter is pulling 400A, bats surface voltage is 12.6 and with 400A load goes down to 10V. I have .9V drop from bat to starter. That means the starter is seeing about 9V. IMO, that is just not enough and probably way overheating my starter...
 
OK, what I found is a fuel leak right at the T valve. I sealed that up and will have to wait until morning to see if the starting issue resolves.
 
The Injection pump works like an automotive distributor. There isn't always 22Kv at each spark plug. Same for the Injectors. Only 1 at a time has the 1800 PSI to fire the injector. The rest of them are at near zero and the 400 PSI of compression can leak back into a stuck open or leaking injector.

The IP will purge some air out of the fuel via the j tube vent wire assembly.

You need 100 RPM cold 150 RPM hot to start the engine.
 
One of the first things I think I will do is find out what the crank speed "should" be, as well as acceptable voltage drop, etc. My starter is pulling 400A, bats surface voltage is 12.6 and with 400A load goes down to 10V. I have .9V drop from bat to starter. That means the starter is seeing about 9V. IMO, that is just not enough and probably way overheating my starter...

voltage drop across each electrical connection should only be .2v so you need to clean your connections
 
Starter speed needs to be resolved, true.
Truck can run with a non-working lift pump but starting will be hard, so, address the lp issues next.
Fuel fitter next if in doubt, replace.
if still hard starting, look at Pmd. If your pmd is not relocated, most people won't look past it until you relocate the pmd outside the engine bay.
 
Ok, here is where we are. After talking with a guy, I decided to agree and plug the truck in, with the truck cold, but in the middle of the summer. The engine was almost too hot to touch but truck had not started for 2 days. Perfect test. Truck fired up PERFECTLY with very little smoke and any smoke was gray to black. It did not stumble at all. With the slower cranking and all, popped right off.

Now, I know this truck has always had a glow plug relay fault code that sets BUT I know for a fact that the relay is functioning or at least locking and unlocking. I have verified that the plugs collectively pull 90-100A right now. Per the conversation with this guy, I am starting to come around that I might very well have a glow issue and will of course hit my head on the ground if that is the case... I had already written off glows but poor cold start with good warm start is a prime case.

Anyway, any ideas WHAT would cause a glow relay fault? Wondering if it is sensing a voltage drop across it signaling a bad relay maybe? I was told that 1 GP would just cause some smoke and stumbling but 2 GPs down would certain be a hard start. Dunno but I am ready to give the glow system a VERY good look over...
 
I had too fight with a similar case by february this year.

I'm on vacation in Australia (Gold Coast), and visiting universities for my daughter.
So, it took a while before I succeed digging deep inside my memory :hihi:, but I remember now:
We even swap a new IP thinking the one on the truck was shot, and it appears the truck was suffering two problems :
  • all glow plugs were shot;
  • starter was spinning too low;
8 new glow plugs and a new starter later, the truck started at first key on and is still doing it nowadays... even with the old IP that we put back on the truck...
 
And in closing, I too have found the exact same issues. 2 GPs were down and starter is spinning slower than normal.

I should be slapped for not looking further into the GP system. Individual testing showed about 15A draw per plug when first lit, then reducing a bit as they heat up due to internal resistance increases.

my test fire this morning proved we have about an 80% improvement. With a faster starter system, it should be back to normal.
 
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