IP failure symptoms?

[6.2suburbanpilot]

hey guys, newbie member here, I have an issue with my 86 6.2, I was pulling my trailer a while ago when suddenly complete loss of power and a white smoke screen james bond would envy, I had to park it because 2 days later I was flying out. I have a few days to try to sort it out before I leave again for a few months
I have owned the truck for 18 years I had to replace the short block about ten years ago at that time I had the pump rebuilt, and once again since that time by (DIS in lubbock).
I have replaced the mechanical lift pump just in case it was the culprit, but as there were no loud bangs shuddersor mechanical noises and it is total power loss I am assuming the IP now.

I can get it to fire with WD40 and then it will "run" with the throttle pedal depressed but will not idle, all the while emitting a very impressive smoke screen.

if any one can verify my opinion or let me know what else it is likely to be I would greatly appreciate it.
The truck is currently running the 2829-4544 pump any suggestions as to upgrades.
Thanks in advance Andrew

 

[GM Guy]

how often do you change the fuel filter?

what do you run for fuel supplement?

 

[6.2suburbanpilot]

Truck is maintained fairly well, has a canister filter on it which is changed with oil changes, @2500 intervals, she gets a supplement but name escapes me at present. I have well in excess of 200,000 on her that is my doing, and she has been worked pretty hard in her time though now she is used much less for towing than she used to be, I only occasionally work her hard now and then only for short stints.

 

[ak diesel driver]

put a clear return line on where it comes out of the IP and look for air. the mechanical LPs are noted for leaking air while still pumping fuel. myself I'd ditch the LP for an electric one

 

[WarWagon]

You may have fried the glow plugs with the WD-40. Knock off starting aids unless you want to replace bent rods and worse shatter the glow plugs. They score the cyl walls and impact into pistons quite nicely. Good batteries and a good starter with clean grounds assuming a working glow plug system will start the engine. If not something is wrong that needs to be fixed without additional starting aid damage.

You should check the filter for water. Bad fuel or a slug of water... Drain some fuel into a jar and see what is up with it.

Air is the first thing to look for. The IP's have a hard time purging air out even after air leaks are fixed. I always had a hard time getting a 6.2 pump to run after tasting air. The fuel filter box is known to leak around the restriction sensor and other areas I forget.

 

[6.2suburbanpilot]

will test the return line output;
thanks for the reminder about starting aids,the reason for the wd this time was because it barely runs at all, wont idle when hot let alone start when cold, I know WD is not the right or good thing to do but i was hoping that the lift pump had been the problem.
I will do some more research into the electric IP if indeed the IP is at fault

 

[GM Guy]

well, wd is alot better than ether as far as safety, but these are still really high compression, so be very careful and use small doses.

 

[turbonator]

Every time I hear someone talking about no power, hard starting, massive white smoke, I think of cracked pistons. We, as a group of owners, like to bump the timing to the advanced side to get a little more power, but too much is very hard on internals....and results are irreversible...

 

[GM Guy]

if it is the IP, turbonator offered me one over in the classifieds (under WTB DB2 by warwagon) that may be better suited for your rig. I have dealt with them in the past, and they have sent good stuff.

 

[turbovanman]

You can use starting fluid etc, just unplug the glow plugs.

 

[Will L.]

Remember 3 basic needs of a diesel:
1: fuel- you're testing that, keep on track, but before big $,
2: heat- glow plugs/block heater etc. (even in our weather on older engines)
3: compression- pull the plugs and test the compression, then test glows while they are out and reinstall or replace (use anti seize).

Everyone usually jumps to fuel tests because that is where more problems are fixed, but don't go throwing big money until you know if it is going to do any good. If you had it 8 years then short blocked it, now 10 years later how are those old rings doing along with those over 18 year old valves? Hopefully good but better to know...

 

[turbovanman]

Just noticed, you have the 4544 pump, I loved that pump on my van until it died, wicked power.

You may have fried the glow plugs with the WD-40. Knock off starting aids unless you want to replace bent rods and worse shatter the glow plugs. They score the cyl walls and impact into pistons quite nicely. Good batteries and a good starter with clean grounds assuming a working glow plug system will start the engine. If not something is wrong that needs to be fixed without additional starting aid damage.

You should check the filter for water. Bad fuel or a slug of water... Drain some fuel into a jar and see what is up with it.

Air is the first thing to look for. The IP's have a hard time purging air out even after air leaks are fixed. I always had a hard time getting a 6.2 pump to run after tasting air. The fuel filter box is known to leak around the restriction sensor and other areas I forget.

No doubt, sometimes it takes weeks to purge the air out, ack.