Intake Mod, other project or two and finally, the ATT.

[Paveltolz]

Fuel heater should not read open, then its burnt up. It should show some resistance, but I will verify tomorrow on mine.

Thanks, very much appreciated. My electrical knowledge is very basic but this is what I remembered from other experiences.

 

[Paveltolz]

Machinist called to say the part was cut out. "It's pretty rough, do you want me to clean it up." No, says I, I want it ugly since it is a test only. Neighbor friend with the mill has spent a lot of time trying to get this done on his machine as a way to get the thing dialed in, anyway, he is due back soon and I don't want him feeling passed by just cause I'm impatient.

Besides, the "L" drilling for the boost sensor was his idea and I want him on board for the final version. Plus, I want a pretty one

Pulled it all part, "Healed" the stripped out threads on the lower, fitted and drilled the boost sensor, drilled and tapped the holes for the small bolts holding the boost sensor in place so no more zip ties. Got it in and all lined up and torqued down to 15lbs using 5 lbs increments to get there. Joy ride tomorrow.

Happy Snaps of the rough cut aluminum unit with detail shots of the boost sensor drilling. Hit the junction on the nose first time. Not bad if I do say so myself seeing as how I did it with my hand held drill. 3/8" diam. vertical for 1/2" with 5/32" continueing down 1/4". 5/32 horizontal on a slight incline hit the junction spont on. I love it when a plan comes together.:thumbsup:
the line across is the guide for drilling the horizontal


May not be as pretty as wood but it will work.

 

[Slim Shady]

Well, any updates, work ok? Are you getting accurate intake air temps? do you think there is enough air flow past the sensor?

 

[Paveltolz]

Well, any updates, work ok? Are you getting accurate intake air temps? do you think there is enough air flow past the sensor?

Motor seems happy. No apparent boost leaks. 2.5 silicon hose clamps aren't weaping CDR return oil and there isn't any weaping at the intake bolts or seams between spacer and upper or lower manifolds.
The IAT sensor probe sits about 1/4" inside the spacer so there is enough flow past the sensor. Boost Guage responds now that I remembered to fish the sensor out from behind the FFM and hook it up. I'm using the 1/8" npt threaded tap in the cummins elbow for that now. Will tap the spacer later when I do some 'parts on - parts off' testing.

I'm not sure I'm getting correct readings/results from EGT and Boost Gauges. I'll accumulate some data with the Peninsular intake, spacer & ATT over the next week or so then duplicate the runs with the GM-5 using the same intake/spacer combo. Then again with the stock intake system and the GM-5. Yeah, I should have done this in reverse order with the stock readings before all the transitions. That path strewn with pain is till behind me.

On Edit: Spoke with Dennis (Slim Shady) on the phone. Great conversation and I can't thank him enough. It is good to know that what I'm seeing on the gauges and scanner; feeling in the motor and seeing out the windshield and in the mirrors is what I should be experiencing. That means that I did the ATT install correctly, the other improvements were done right and, most important, that spacer is doing what it is supposed to be doing and works 'as advertised.' No detrimental effects and no need to disassemble and reassemble the stock configurations etc. I'm extatic. Truck felt better on the way home too, not that it's alive or anything...then again, I sometimes wonder.

When my neighbor gets home and we get a functional unit cut out it will be cleaner, thinner and will flow the air that much better. The current rough cut test unit will then go to Dennis for his further testing/inspecting to see what improvements or other applications it can serve. Thanks to all who have expressed an interest. I hope this thing passes muster.

 

[buddy]

Thanks, very much appreciated. My electrical knowledge is very basic but this is what I remembered from other experiences.

I did check mine and I too get no continuity across the heater. I wonder if mine is fried too. Anything would have some resistance, it has to, to pull a current, unless the potential across a gap creates some kind of magnetic field that turns something on, but I dont think the heater is that complicated.

I have scanner screenshots from some other members that have fuel temps around 120F, and mine are only about 100F after some time which could just be from being passed through the IP I suppose. Some more people checking the ohms across the heater would help to know.

 

[Paveltolz]

Thanks Buddy. Sorry to hear you may be in the same boat as I.
I ordered a new unit from 'thedieselstore.com' and it should be here next week. I'll check it upon arrival and if it is still open then the FM (freaking magic) principle of electronics must be in effect. Either way, I'll have something smaller to wedge open the back door to the garage instead of that banged up "NEW" IP I screwed myself by purchasing last summer. I'll post up the results.

 

[kojo]

I cant remember where it was told, but i think there is somekind thermostat in that heater element, so it wont work if enough hot.

 

[Paveltolz]

I cant remember where it was told, but i think there is somekind thermostat in that heater element, so it wont work if enough hot.

If you're right, and the new one checks "open", then I'll be the owner of a new heating element w/o compromised wiring and a spare that will serve as the door stop w/o scratching the surface on my newly painted floor.


Best Case Senario: It will save Buddy and others a few bucks to know what the real deal is.

 

[Paveltolz]

Researched the electrical diagrams today from my GM manuals. They use the same symbol for the heater as they do for the glow plugs so if there is a control for when it runs, it isn't in the heater. Unlike the glow plugs which have two paths to the PCM (Signal and Relay Control) the Heater's power path comes directly from the underhood fuse-relay center through the heater and grounds at G105 which is the RH top of Cylinder Head.

BUT...Later on the manual states that "a control circuit inside the fule heater completes the circuit for the heater element whenit senses a tempurature below 8C or 46F."
Source, 1997 GM service manual, 6E-1348 Engine Controls.

So, Kojo's observation is correct. Unfortunately, the manuals I have don't have the section that would show greater details to the fuel heater circuit, Section 8A-21 is skipped. Must be a supliment I didn't get. So...

I don't know if that means it should read open with a multi-meter when unplugged or not, but it seems the only real way to know is to check the new unit when it shows up.

Paul

 

[buddy]

I think what Kojo meant is that, just like the glow plugs it may self regulate itself, so when it is too hot it does become and open circuit. But when checking cold you should see some contiuity there, a resistance.

 

[Paveltolz]

I think what Kojo meant is that, just like the glow plugs it may self regulate itself, so when it is too hot it does become and open circuit. But when checking cold you should see some contiuity there, a resistance.

I agree. Sorry if that didn't come across. Like I mentioned, the diagrams (for engine controls) use similar symbols for the glow plugs and fuel heater element.
Fuel Heater

Glow Plugs

So the question is, without connecting to the PCM the thing is like a ice chest. Keeps hot things hot and cold things cold...but how do it know:hihi:

 

[Paveltolz]

Resistance may not be so futile

The new Fuel Heater Element arrived today. Original Stanandyne part. With the multi-meter set in the 200 ohms range, it registered 2.0. Guess what Buddy...we're screwed
At least I am. You, living in the warmer climes of California, may not be in as pressing of a situation if it only activates at temps below 46 degrees.

Anyway, the part came with a new "O" ring, coil "spring" and 5' of additional wire with connector (male).:thumbsup: Those who wish to relocate the FFM could cut the truck side plug, splice in the new wire, and have room to spare. Or, leave the unit in it's original location and unwind the old wire from the loom and splice it in at the OEM locations. But, if relocating the FFM, there's the WIF sensor wires to deal with still. Figures.

Pictures to save a few thousand words.
Here's the old heater with the bare wire (which should be "Pink" oh by the way).

It's orange meaning the part was replaced with a non-oem part at one time or the pink got toasted! I better double check the inside of that wire loom.:agreed: Winter's coming and this thing is going to light up often I'm guessing.

Here's the new unit connected to the mult-meter.:thumbsup:


So, if you're checking your fuel heater as part of pre-winter PMCS (preventative maintanence, checks & services) and it reads "open" (Zero Ohms), I'm afraid you've got issues too.:mad2:

Just trying to help. :usa1:

 

[buddy]

Thank You, thats more like it!

 

[Paveltolz]

You are most welcome. It's been a while since I've been pleased to know that a part on the truck was really bad!

 

[buddy]

That may help explain partially why my morning drives to work seem to use more fuel now that its getting a bit cooler, takes longer for fuel in the tank to warm up.

 

[Paveltolz]

Intalled the fuel heater and attempted to relocated the FFM. Extended the electrical and the fuel lines so it would sit over the driver's fender. It was going great until I put in the new fuel filter from Wix. Darn thing sticks up too far to mount the sucker vertical so I've got it in there "temporary like" until I find that darn ring to affix the original style filter instead.

I did insert a T junction at the fire wall for a fuel pressure gauge to be added later.


Drilled and tapped the spacer for IAT and boost gauges seems to work just fine. I obviously need a little more practice drilling and tapping but that's life. After all, it IS a prototype. :rolleyes5:


My pal is back from vacation and he's got the computer talking to the milling machine so he's going to run some test passes on scrap wood before cutting into this nice chunk of aluminum plate that I have.

 

[guybb3]

My pal is back from vacation and he's got the computer talking to the milling machine so he's going to run some test passes on scrap wood before cutting into this nice chunk of aluminum plate that I have.

Going to sell any?

 

[Veg_Out]

I'm really wanting to see this!

 

[DieselSlug]

Those new fuel filters are also a pain to bleed! They make way more of a mess than the old ones! Def. cheaper quality!. When i bled mine more fuel came out from under the twist head thing than the little tube coming out the top..

 

[Paveltolz]

Those new fuel filters are also a pain to bleed! They make way more of a mess than the old ones! Def. cheaper quality!. When i bled mine more fuel came out from under the twist head thing than the little tube coming out the top..

Yeah, tell me about it. It started to rain so I went to push the truck all the way inside the garage. Keep in mind the Filter is not in the FFM and I'm not done connecting the all the lines. Key on, shift to neutral....what's that sound? Fuel mileage will suffer on this tank. 20 minutes later the fuel is cleaned up and I reconnect everything and install the Wix Filter. Key on...more fuel spilling only out from around the edge of the twist head. Remove filter, install rubber O ring, reinstall filter, clean up more fuel. Too poor to pay attention that day.

Anyone got an OEM filter ring so I can go back in time to the good old days. Mine's gone 'walk-about.' PM, I'll pay shipping too.