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Installing Leaf Spring Shims?

I have center bolts here but they are not much longer in the "nub", I called a buddy @ Deaver spring and asked if they had some and he said they run a sleeve to make them longer. I will have to look and see if I can match up a sleeve here. If I can I would give you the sleeve and the center bolts are $18.50 shipped. Let me know if you need me to put this together for you.
 
The sleeve will need to be exactly the same thickness of the shim though as the pin hole in the spring perch is not much bigger than the stock sized pins.
Why are the holes bigger in the shims to begin with?
Is the aluminum wedges an issue for us in the rust areas with the dissimilar metals attacking each other?
 
Now, when I do all this, am I going to Find Out in the Middle of the Job that I need New U-Bolts as well, because there aren't enough Threads on the Stock ones?
 
If you have stock ubolts you should be fine, look at what you have left for threads showing and subtract the thickness of the shim.
 
Ok, so Tell me if this makes Sense...

I Re-Measured my Truck's Height about 3 Weeks Ago or so, and Found the Front was Decently Lower than the Rear. So I Cranked the T-Bars Up until the Front is now only 1/4" Lower than the Rear.

I've been Driving at this New Height ever since. Driving Style hasn't Changed, Roads that I take haven't Changed, but 1 thing has. The Vibration I was getting when Slowing Down is GREATLY Reduced now. It's still there, but it's not as Bad as it was before.

So now what does that Mean?

Could Raising the Front back Up a lil Change the Angle of the Driveline enough that it would make the Vibration Less? Or could my Vibration be coming from the Front-End?
 
Rear driveline angle was not affected whatsoever by adjusting the front. You did nothing to change the rear axle-frame distance. Have you changed air pressure in tires, have you hit anything lately (pothole, curb, etc), have you altered how much weight is in the bed recently?

When you brake the front end of the truck naturally drops due to a couple of reasons, but I'm bringing this up because you increased the clearances on the front end parts. Right now, where is your front end parts in relation to the bumpstops? I wonder if by increasing the clearances you affected how much work the bumpstops are doing?
 
Air Pressure, I always keep the same, I Check it about once a Month, and it's only Off by 1-2psi.

Potholes & Bumps in the Road are EVERYWHERE Out Here. No way to Avoid them.

No Weight Change in the Bed.

The Bumpstops have been Out since I Lowered the Truck. The Suspension has never Compressed enough that the LCA's have Hit the Frame with the Stops Out.
 
Air Pressure, I always keep the same, I Check it about once a Month, and it's only Off by 1-2psi.

Potholes & Bumps in the Road are EVERYWHERE Out Here. No way to Avoid them.

No Weight Change in the Bed.

The Bumpstops have been Out since I Lowered the Truck. The Suspension has never Compressed enough that the LCA's have Hit the Frame with the Stops Out.

Okay, reason I asked about potholes and such was in reference to the possibility of a bent wheel. My cousin has bent an aluminum wheel and I've bent a factory steel. He hit a curb straight on, I was screwing around in the snow and slid the ass-end of my truck around, hitting a parking stop and bending a wheel.
 
Okay, reason I asked about potholes and such was in reference to the possibility of a bent wheel. My cousin has bent an aluminum wheel and I've bent a factory steel. He hit a curb straight on, I was screwing around in the snow and slid the ass-end of my truck around, hitting a parking stop and bending a wheel.

Oh no, they aren't Big enough to Dent a Wheel, and if they were, those are ones I'd DEF. Swerve around to Miss.
 
Any more news/info on this? I'm still thinking.

I think I'm just gonna put it back up to Leveled Height and Call it a Day.

To Correct this Problem, and keep it Lowered, is gonna Cost more Money than I wanna Spend on it to just get rid of a Simple Vibration.
 
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